Norton Electrical Upgrade

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kommando said:
I went a different way,

I use one of these relays

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/165

I has a feed to a warning light which is not needed on a Commando with an indicator bulb in the headlamp surround, so instead I use it to feed a warning buzzer.

The first buzzer worked but was inaudible above 40mph, so worked in towns but not on open roads.

So then I swapped to a 12V alarm siren, its under the seat and covered in foam but still audible at least up to 80mph. So I hear it at all times and now never forget to turn off the indicators.

It has an added advantage, pedestrians think its a reversing lorry so instead of carrying on looking at their phones and stepping out into a junction, they stop and try and work out where the lorry is ;) .
Click to expand...

I too went the 'audible warning' route as the idiot (aptly named in my case!) light on my Mk3 has a mind of it's own... Make more sense for me to sort our the OE system, but as you say it doesn't hurt to make others aware of your presence..
 
If you like self cancelling indicators, this might be a better choice than the motogadget.

http://www.signaldynamics.com/self-canceling-turn-signal-module/

This has three modes of self cancel and a hazard light function. You must equip the bike with momentary indicator switches.
-A one second push gets 7 flashes, good for changing lanes on the fly or passing.
-A two second push gives 20 flashes, good for a rolling turn thru a corner on a green light.
-A four second or longer push gives 75 flashes, good for sitting at a red light or stop sign while waiting to turn.
-Depress both left and right buttons together and the indicators become 4 way flashers or hazard lights.
Depress both buttons again to shut off.


I have this unit on the Vincent. Its been on there about ten years now and I really like the functionality.
I used the four ways last year when a riding companion and I got separated on a misty day.
I knew he was back there somewhere so I pulled over to the side of the freeway and turned on the hazards. On the Vincent these are four very bright arrow shaped LEDs at back and four amber LEDs on the crash bars are front.
He said he could see the lights from about a mile back, even though visibility was poor.

I have the stock indicators and dash light on the MK3 and leave those indicators on now and then. This has nearly caused an accident several times and of course, I would be at fault. It might not matter that I would be at fault.., just really annoying to cause your own death!

Glen
 
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My old dad used to drive us kids around in quite a neat car called a Simca Aronde.

I remember how annoying he found the timed self-cancelling indicators.

Norton Electrical Upgrade
 
There are timed indicators on my 350 L c and it is annoying when I'm in the middle of the road, waiting for a gap in the traffic to enable me to turn. Just like without timed indicators its something you learn to live with.
 
To each his own I guess.
I have some bikes with regular indicators and two bikes with the Signal Dynamics self-cancelling signal module above.
Having used both types for a long time now, I wish they all had the module.
It's a fair bit of trouble and expense to convert them, otherwise it would be done already.

Glen
 
Yorkie said:
I am working my way through a '74 Interstate restoration and I would like to make sure that the electrics are reliable. I have purchased a new wiring harness but the reason for this post is to ask the mind-share as to what other upgrades should I look at. I am thinking of using the Pazon Sure-Fire ignition system but are there any other parts I should upgrade such as coils, stator, etc? Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...

In terms of reliability, it's hard to beat the stock Lucas stuff. Other than the female bullet connectors, which a new harness should cure for a while.

In terms of upgrades, you've been given some suggestions already. A high output 3 phase alternator and regulator, LED headlamp and tail lamp (and blinkers if you wish). Add an AGM battery to that. The Lucas coils work fine with electronic ignitions, though there are better out there.
 
Triton Thrasher said:
That’s all very worthy, but can’t you see the front indicator flashing?
Click to expand...

Yes...but I've ridden behind a veteran Norton/other brittbike rider as well as virtually ever other rider I know, watching his/her flashers for miles and miles... And I've had folks behind me say the same... :( Automatic cancellation is a great thing! :)

Re other upgrades...I've been doing this brittbike stuff for a long time and am convinced that the majority of upgrades...AREN'T. IMO the only important ones are safety related - for example: better brakes to handle modern traffic. etc - though right now there isn't any traffic! Frankly, there is no electronic ignition system that is even close to the reliability of the points/AAU. Same is true of many of the other electronic "upgrades."

IMO, most of the problems that are being "fixed" are related to the fact that the bikes are 40+ years old. If you put the bike into original condition with the original parts, most of the 'problems' would disappear.

We also create problems that cause no problem so we can 'fix' them. I won't mention what I think those are; that's a different thread! ;)

Good luck navigating through all this! :)
 
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I have the Kisan Signal Minder fitted on my 2013 Bonneville
https://kisantech.com/signalminder.html

It can be set to various flasher on delays (10-50 flashes) and has a feed into the brake light circuit to disable the turn off count down function until the brake is released. This means flasher keeps blinking for as long as you are holding brake, like at a traffic light or slowing in a decel lane from a highway. It also has ability to set the turn lamps to always on solid at a lesser brightness as corner markers....they then blink off/back on at full bright while turn indicating. This is what I have run for 5 yrs now...need all the extra visibility I can get in urban Vancouver.

I also use Kisan's brake light flasher as well on the Bonneville.

Neither of these can be fitted to a positive earth bike as far as I can tell. So I didn't get one for the Commando.
 
On my Mk3 I have the stock single phase 180 W alternator, but It was replaced in the 1990`s. I thought
it had faded because It couldn`t match the power consumption, (faulty Lucas Rita)


With the following confuguration it can handle the consumption at almost idle and headlight is on.
The "break even point" is about 1100 RPM .


Confuguration:

Old two phase Lucas 180W alternator

Podtronic R/R

LED Taillight

LED Headlight (Draws only 13 W with Pilot-Light on)

Trispark Ignition.


The Led-Lights are also positive earth.

I do not need a three phase alternator or change the bike to negative earth.


Regards Marcel
 
I forgot to mention


The instrument lights are also LED
And I have the standard warning light assimilator (WLA)
The console lights I didn’t touch.


Marcel
 
I haven't read this entire thread so this may be redundant, but as far as leaving turn signals on I put a beeper inside my headlight that is loud enough to remind me to cancel them.
Jaydee
 
MexicoMike said:
Frankly, there is no electronic ignition system that is even close to the reliability of the points/AAU. Same is true of many of the other electronic "upgrades."

IMO, most of the problems that are being "fixed" are related to the fact that the bikes are 40+ years old.
Click to expand...

I've had breaker points fail on the road. And my AAU failed (wore out) in WAY fewer miles than my first Boyer. There's good reasons why AAU weights aren't made any more.

If you put the bike into original condition with the original parts, most of the 'problems' would disappear.
Click to expand...

I consider lighting to be a safety upgrade. The original BPF headlamp (45 watts?) was a mere candle in the dark, but it was all the OEM electrics could handle. When halogen bulbs became available I upgraded the alternator to handle the extra power. Now that we have LED equivalents that's not so important. Unless you also add electric start... :D

Some of those 40+ year old "problems" have been solved through modern engineering. I don't think anyone would argue that things like Heim joint head steadies or teflon impregnated fork bushings are solutions for a non-problem.

My bike is better in pretty much every respect than it was the day I rode it from the dealer's lot.
 
MexicoMike said:
We also create problems that cause no problem so we can 'fix' them. I won't mention what I think those are; that's a different thread! ;)
Click to expand...

Go on Mike, start that thread, it should liven things up a bit...!

As you know, personally I am against modifying...:rolleyes:
 
I put them outside under the clocks. They are loud enough at low speed which is where I usually forget to turn them off. They help a lot.
 
EstuaryBoy said:
I too went the 'audible warning' route as the idiot (aptly named in my case!) light on my Mk3 has a mind of it's own... Make more sense for me to sort our the OE system, but as you say it doesn't hurt to make others aware of your presence..
Click to expand...
A better solution would be to fit a mini vibration motor like used in cell phones into the seat where your leg contacts....heard a guy on the Triumph forum did that and works a treat.

http://www.leader-w.com/100-origina...-vibration-motor-leader-microelectronics.html
 
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Marcelx said:
On my Mk3 I have the stock single phase 180 W alternator, but It was replaced in the 1990`s. I thought
it had faded because It couldn`t match the power consumption, (faulty Lucas Rita)


With the following confuguration it can handle the consumption at almost idle and headlight is on.
The "break even point" is about 1100 RPM .


Confuguration:

Old two phase Lucas 180W alternator

Podtronic R/R

LED Taillight

LED Headlight (Draws only 13 W with Pilot-Light on)

Trispark Ignition.


The Led-Lights are also positive earth.

I do not need a three phase alternator or change the bike to negative earth.


Regards Marcel
Click to expand...
I use a similar setup, that even with the Podtronic the battery status monitor would be red at night. Fitted the Tri Spark mosfet rectifier and now at night even with full beam on the monitor shoes green, the rectifier does not even get that warm either.
 
Yes, the points/AAU require regular maintenance to perform at optimum level. But all it takes to keep the points/AAU working correctly is that occasional maintenance/lubrication.

People talk about how the AAU sticks. Yes, it can...IF you don't do the required maintenance. Do the routine maintenance and it will never be a problem. Sure, points CAN create a problem and leave you on the side of the road (been there, done that, have the T-shirt). But it requires virtually no tools - OK, a screwdriver and a matchbook cover - to correct the problem in 10 minutes. EI? You are S O L unless you have a replacement EI with you and and tools/time to spare.

I'm not saying EI is bad - I have one (TriSpsrk) on my Commando. But if it ever failed, I'd go back to points/AAU. Re that, I don't know why automobile factory and aftermarket EI's are essentially trouble free and Norton aftermarket EI's have a long list of detractors regardless of which EI we are discussing.
 
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