Reluctant starting

Eljahara said:
I think one of the “Brit” - Fred or Curtis - has been solving this by tightening the screws on the IAM, I am sure he will chip in here. However - as said before, book for first service at Donnington and speak to the guys prior to service/changing exhausts. A lot of the guys here have had most issues resolved at first service (including changing map to match open exhausts) but if the IAM flange is loose as well it needs sorting.
John
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YEs. That would be me. Four time already and twice, barely half a turn to tighten it up. Put a very small drop of Loctite on and it still backed of a bit. I'm afraid of wearing out the nylon. Even tight now, I can detect a very small gap on the bottom of the flange. That should seat perfectly face to face. The hose is stiff and puts a cockeyed leverage on the flange. I guess reshaping or trimming it may relieve the pressure, but what you take off, can't be put back on. I'm having a different fueling problem now. The RPM hangs at about 1800 for a second or two before dropping back to 12-1300. Also, my MPG has dropped about 15% to about 3 mpg down from 41. And I've been riding much easier lately. Still a bit cold out.
 
Accnor73 said:
It’s not every time I down change or come to a stop, but it is most times.
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I've had a slight niggle with cutting on the overrun under specific conditions. Can somebody who really knows explain the algorithm behind the tickover control? At what point does the ECU decide to control revs - does it only do it with the throttle at zero? Does it consider whether it is in gear with the clutch engaged (engine braking)? Does the control valve normally sit fully closed or partially open?
When a bike is 'ticking over' fast at 2300rpm as many owners experience I am assuming that the ECU is not trying to control the idle. When I briefly had some issues it would sit at 2300rpm but if I put it in gear and let the clutch in to drop the revs as soon as they dropped below 2000 it suddenly controlled the idle perfectly - ie the ECU had enabled the idle control function.

Any ECU gurus out there?
 
BritTwit said:
That seems a bit on the loose side.
Did you try starting it up, and letting her warm up to see if the idling issue reoccurs?
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I did, and I tightened them before the 100 odd miles at the weekend. It was there still so perhaps I need to tighten further. It’s hard to tell how far to go, small Allen key threaded screws in to plastic. Could be easy to strip the threads.
 
Accnor73 said:
I did, and I tightened them before the 100 odd miles at the weekend. It was there still so perhaps I need to tighten further. It’s hard to tell how far to go, small Allen key threaded screws in to plastic. Could be easy to strip the threads.
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There is a O ring between the two parts that may help seal out the air
 
Accnor73 said:
Is the suggestion I should separate the parts to see if an o-ring is present?
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No I just thought that with a O ring between the two parts the screws do not need to be excessively tight and this lessens the chance of stripping the threads
 
Reluctant starting
 
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