Reluctant starting

Empty catch bottle is more than good, it's a miracle :) Factory say to expect a full bottle after 2k miles but to check more frequently. Have a check inside your air filter housing just to make sure none is accumulating and being prevented from draining.

Plugs look fine, I might expect to see them a little dirtier seeing as you are running her in and not giving it the thrashing that you need to properly analyse the plugs, but then again these bikes run on the lean side anyway.
 
Great thanks guys. Will be putting another 100 on it this morning so will see how she does today.
 
I occasionally get a slightly hard start, low idle to stalling at the stop signs when the bike is hot and I stop to refuel. Anytime I restart, I turn the key fully off and let things reset. It normalizes usually. Trying to restart without resetting the key is usually futile. I always initially start my bike with the stand down with no problems, so not quite sure what that's all about with you guys.
 
Side stand down and in Neutral . Otherwise no start , Cranks over but will not start . This is by design.
 
It is on another thread, if the bike stalls or stops in gear then it will not start unless the stand is up even when the gear indicates neutral- it is as if the ECU still thinks the bike is in gear and therefore will not start with the stand down. I have had this a couple of times as has Accnor73. Sit on, sidestand up, clutch in - starts normally!
John
 
will see how she does today.

After my 600 mile decat/remap service I was worried when I had several starting issues and, as you say, if it doesn't start properly the ECU seems to get confused and it runs rough. After a few days these problems went away never to return. Do little ECUs like this adapt?

Hoping your problem is the same.
 
Ok well another 110 miles on Sunday and whilst it doesn’t exactly leap in to action there were none of the previously experienced starting issues. Must have been switched on and off and restarted 5 or 6 times and always fired up on first start (even if it did take a couple of seconds or three).

Anyway, happy with that. Still not happy with the idling position though. Regularly running at 2300 so going to have to take a long trip back to the factory to get sorted.

I’m up to 230 miles so i’m thinking i’ll Just live with the idling for the next 370 and get the first service done at the same time.

Out on a longer run it’s great, don’t notice the high idle as the gear changes are up in the 2300 area anyway.... around town and at lights and junctions it’s a real problem and not something that’s easy to live with. More to come on this.
 
it’s a real problem and not something that’s easy to live with. More to come on this.

Are you planning to get a decat/ open pipes/ remap on your first service or has some of this been done already?
 
Ref the high idle, can’t remember where I read this, on here or in the owners handbook (I’m currently away from home so can’t check)...

To help a confused ECU:
1. Turn off and wait a few seconds.
2. Turn on ign, without starting engine.
3. Fully open and then fully close the throttle.
4. Turn off and wait a few seconds.
5. Turn on and restart engine.

Does anyone know where I read this??

I had a high idle twice, both after long fast runs, after doing the above it went away.

Coincidence? Black magic? Or....?
 
How High ? 1500 , 1800 , 2000 RPM ? And did the high Idle hold for more than 30 secs etc. ? It would be nice to get a report or a manual from Norton as to what to expect and what the ECU is doing during the idle process . I have heard the ECU may ask for a higher idle depending on certain factors like excessive heat etc.. How much of this is hear say or really going on I wonder ?
 
Out on a longer run it’s great, don’t notice the high idle as the gear changes are up in the 2300 area anyway.... around town and at lights and junctions it’s a real problem and not something that’s easy to live with. More to come on this.

I gotta say that it truly irks me that folks buying MK2's are still experiencing this erratic/high idle problem.
This is an issue that should have been diagnosed years ago and eliminated on all new bikes.
These are simple air cooled, pushrod motorcycles, not the space shuttle.
If fixing the problem means switching to a quality, Keihin EFI system, then Norton should just do it.
End the ordeal for owners already.
 
How High ? 1500 , 1800 , 2000 RPM ? And did the high Idle hold for more than 30 secs etc. ? It would be nice to get a report or a manual from Norton as to what to expect and what the ECU is doing during the idle process . I have heard the ECU may ask for a higher idle depending on certain factors like excessive heat etc.. How much of this is hear say or really going on I wonder ?


I’ve got a video of mine. If in neutral and revved above 2300 it will hang there and stay there and nothing brings it down apart from turning it off. If riding it, engaging a gear by letting the clutch out will make the revs drop, so in reality when riding it I find i’m Controlling the revs by riding the clutch. It’s pretty tedious. It’s also a litte dangerous as you roll off the throttle in say 3rd but instead of the revs reducing speed as you expect, by hanging at 2300 you’re travelling faster and further than you should be.

Edited to add - mine will idle high like this from just a few miles in on the ride. It’s not every time I down change or come to a stop, but it is most times.
 
I think one of the “Brit” - Fred or Curtis - has been solving this by tightening the screws on the IAM, I am sure he will chip in here. However - as said before, book for first service at Donnington and speak to the guys prior to service/changing exhausts. A lot of the guys here have had most issues resolved at first service (including changing map to match open exhausts) but if the IAM flange is loose as well it needs sorting.
John
 
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Thanks, and i’ve been talking to Rob at norton and he has been very helpful and receptive to help finding a solution. If it wasn’t so far i’d Have been back in a flash. I tried the two IAM Allen bolts but I didn’t notice any difference.
 
Hard to say given didn’t check with torque wrench but they pinched up a quarter of a turn. I was warned to go easy on them.
 
Reluctant starting


4 screws total as you see here from iwilson. 2 hold the valve body together and 2 hold the bracket to the throttle body under sides.
 
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