@dynodavegoogle "norton clutch rod seal"
or
http://atlanticgreen.com/rodseal1.htm
Walridge and BCS have them
They must be OK since I (dealers) have sold over 6000 of them
The clutch nut sounds OK. My experience with broken circlip is the adjustment freeplay at the clutch lever keeps changing. If that isn't the case for you then the C-Clip is less likely. I was having similar problem with clutch grabbing and replaced all the fiber and steel plates ('72 model). With new parts it's a very pleasant clutch. I have had the clutch rod seal in mine for several years now and it's presence didn't help or hinder.Details on the DynoDave seal?
@illf8ed : yes, that is something I was thinking...ias mentioned earlier, I set that nut to 40 ft-lbs with some blue Locktite as per OldBrits tech doc rec. New c clip was used.
Will check this once apart.
DynoDave just pm'd me saying the rattle is normal for completely dry/clean plates.I’m guessing clutch plates rattling.....or clutch center bearing trashed.
Placed DynoDave rod seal (had to eliminate the hardened washer and just keep a fresh tabbed washer to achieve required exposed threads (0.140") on mainshaft. Also used blue Locktite and torqued to 40 ftlbs as recommended.
the tab washer is where you can have trouble as it is to soft. you would be better off to use the hardened washer than drill and safety the nut along with locktite.
The tab washers are soft but if used right they work with other things like locktite etc, they also need to be replaced everytime the bolts have been removed, I use stag sealent on the threads of the bolts and locking tabs, this stops any oil reaching inside the primary and the stag also stops the bolts from coming loose, I have worked on a mate's Norton and he just had the bolt in there with out anything, the tabs were on the bolts just not bent up, one bolt and tab was on the bottom of his primay and the other 2 bolts were just finger tight and he has been riding it a.round like that for a few months.
Ashley