Head gasket time

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The SS clone's head gasket is starting to weep, so I think I'll replace it before it get worse. It's been 35 years but not a ton of miles since I buttoned up the engine after a rebore and new valve guides.

I ordered a flame ring gasket from Old Britts and received a 1MM thick example. I thought the 2mm was considered they way to go, less prone to blowing.

Got Jury Duty this week and I'm gonna use my juror pay to get a set of those elastic fluted head bolts from CNW. Also thinking about some beehive valve springs and slippery fork bushings from JS. One Q?; Are the 3 bronze thread inserts required to use the elastic bolts?

Edit: Just read it was the .75mm gaskets that were superceded by 1mm, so I should be good with what I have.
 
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Now that's funny! last time I did jury duty I think they paid $5.00 a day. Have the price on the CNW fasteners gone down?? Good one.
 
Have you tired retensioning the head down, if its only a small weep it might just need retensioning.

Ashley
 
Have you tired retensioning the head down, if its only a small weep it might just need retensioning.

Ashley
Everything's torqued to spec. Upon assembly, it was torqued, ran for a few miles and then torqued again while hot. Copper gasket was annealed and sprayed with aluminized silver paint. The weep is at the rear of the head/cylinder junction, likely starting at the oil drain hole. I wish I had included the fine copper wire around the cylinders, oil drain and pushrod tunnels.
 
I am picking up a 750 Commando today for a member Alan his head gasket is leaking, motor was rebuilt 5 years ago has a PW3 cam installed but hasn't been retorqued since that I know of so will give it a good clean tomorrow and retorque the head and see if its lost it tension it has a copper head gasket fitted, but if it still leaks after a ride the head will come off for new head gasket, he also has another oil leak somewhere that I will chase up for him and fix.

Ashley
 
Got Jury Duty this week and I'm gonna use my juror pay to get a set of those elastic fluted head bolts from CNW. Also thinking about some beehive valve springs and slippery fork bushings from JS. One Q?; Are the 3 bronze thread inserts required to use the elastic bolts?

Are you talking about the three studs internal to the head or the four bolts next to the plug holes, as the waisted bolts I have from comnoz are those four. And they dont need the inserts, as the threads are the same.

I think the three black internal studs do need the inserts, as the thread pitch is different than stock. But, they are not waisted.
 
Slightly off topic, but aren't our heads to be re-torqued cold?
 
Slightly off topic, but aren't our heads to be re-torqued cold?
I
Slightly off topic, but aren't our heads to be re-torqued cold?
I am wondering the same thing, as the last time I did the hot torque I compressed the composite gasket down to nothing and it leaked, I think the torque will be too high if retorqued hot?
 
Mick Hemmings recommends using Wellseal with composite gaskets. Let it go tacky, retorque after 50 miles. I went this route recently. But as they say more than one way to skin a cat
 
Are you talking about the three studs internal to the head or the four bolts next to the plug holes, as the waisted bolts I have from comnoz are those four. And they dont need the inserts, as the threads are the same.

I think the three black internal studs do need the inserts, as the thread pitch is different than stock. But, they are not waisted.
Then the only waisted fasteners are those 4 outers? What about the center bolt?
 
I

I am wondering the same thing, as the last time I did the hot torque I compressed the composite gasket down to nothing and it leaked, I think the torque will be too high if retorqued hot?
Shouldn't be too high as long as you don't exceed the recommended number. I think checking it after heating the motor up is just a precaution in case something moves and loosens a fastener. Sure works on exhaust nuts.
 
I
Then the only waisted fasteners are those 4 outers? What about the center bolt?
Pass.

Jim waisted mine for free right when CNW made the shift in their kits, and I had recently bought a set that were unwaisted.

IIRC, it was just those four, but a note to him or Matt would confirm.
 
cylinder heads should not be torqued when hot ! I always leave mine to sit overnight before checking any torque measurements ,or setting valve clearance etc.
torqueing (spelling ?) an aluminium cylinder head when hot is asking for trouble.
only my own humble opinion.
 
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Purchased these to possibly give them a try? I have used these on my Buell but have no idea how they will do on a Norton. What have you found?? They look very well made.

Head gasket time
 
Purchased these to possibly give them a try? I have used these on my Buell but have no idea how they will do on a Norton. What have you found?? They look very well made.

Looking forward to your comments after installation. They look good in black.
Why just one exhaust valve cover gasket?
 
Cometic has a pretty good reputation. 1.1 mm flame ring head gasket. If 1 mm is better than .75 mm, is 1.1 mm better yet?
 
Looking forward to your comments after installation. They look good in black.
Why just one exhaust valve cover gasket?
Good question, I asked for a set and this is what they sent. Maybe the guy cutting them didn't know.
 
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