Rear sets

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I’ve searched and haven’t found a definitive answer, I have a 1974 Interstate and I’m trying to work out if rearsets will give me a more comfortable riding position.
The standard pegs feel like they are to far forward so rearsets seem like a good fix but I also have aging knees that don’t like being bent to much (my inseam is 32 inches)
What are people’s thoughts and recommendations for rearsets (preferably available in Australia) thanks all, Rhys.
 
Rhys
I fitted my Mk 3 Interstate with home brewed clipons using Yamaha XJR1200/1300 alloy footpegs for rider and pillion together with 41mm Woodcraft alloy clipons under the yoke (needed 41mmx35mm split alloy sleeves but now available in 34 and 35mm to fit Norton forks)
Riders pegs are at the centre of the original triangular shaped area on the Z plates.
Very compact, plenty of ground clearance, lightweight and looks like a factory fitment with the alloy polishing up nicely to match the Commando parts. Full steering lock as per standard bars.

Quick dimension check to give you something to work on shows overall handlebar width is 600mm, centre line across bar ends is 20mm behind steering stem centre and around 40-50mm lower than the top yoke face, footpegs as mentioned at the centre of the Z plate triangle. Slight adjustments depending on which side you "dress or tuck in" can be done at the end if you are a bloke.

You would need the opposite arrangement for a right shift '74 and consider the kickstart, but to answer your question, it is the perfect riding position for my 33" inseam (and knackered badminton knees) manouverable in traffic and excellent on the open roads at typical UK - Euro 70-85mph long distance speeds or just cruising the beautiful local countryside around here.
In fact it is far more comfortable for me than my FJ1200 riding position and any mild back problems just melt away with the slight stretch to the bars.

Following a friend on a standard 850 Interstate doing a fast 80+ mile early morning ride to a Duxford Airshow was painful to watch as his arms and knees flapped about in the breeze, and he felt it too by the time we arrived.
Send a message if you need a pic, I don,t use the Cloud type stuff.
 
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The kickstart lever you have will have a bearing on which Rearset to go for, the std kickstart works with the Norvil type (but do not recommend buying from beardy) , the RGM kickstart needs the NYC type.
 
Hi Rhys,
i have Norvil rearsets on my Interstate with Euro style bars, to me much more comfortable than the standard set up.
I'm 6'2" and used to be able to ride all day with the standard set up, but not now.
The Clubman Racing rearsets look nicer to me than the Norvil ones, no experience with Clubman or their product but looks better designed.
The Norvil attachment for the rear brake cable is ridiculous, ratio of brake lever length to cable pivot length means the brake is completely useless. I redrilled the cable connection point to improve things a bit.
Have also had to rotate the kick start lever well forward for comfort while riding, it would be awkward to use but with an Alton starter the lever doesn't get used.
I haven't yet ridden with a pillion, the pegs are quite close to the passenger ones so that might be a bit restrictive for those who often carry a pillion.
 

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I spent a fortune on various rear set kits and bits that are all now in my spares box.

Eventually I bought the cNw kit. Expensive perhaps, but cheaper than the collection of kits n bits I’m not using!

The cNw kit is unsurpassed in terms of fit, function and overall quality.
 
What Fast Eddie said!

I purchased/installed the CNW rearset after reading posts here and FE's earlier posts re the CNW is what started me in that direction. As he said, it is a superb kit.

My only complaint about the kit is that it looks so good that it forced me to clean/polish the engine/transmission cases! ;)
 
For all pre-MkIII, Clubman Racing sell an excellent set that seem to be re-branded by several vendors. Good quality, direct, simple fitment, and excellent in service. I've got a set on one bike, have installed nearly a dozen others, and sold another half-dozen or so, all with 100% satisfaction. Possibly the best value out there (if they are in stock, which can be a hit & miss).
 
On my 74 roadster I bought some second footrests and shortened them by 2 inches . Surprising how much more comfortable it is and having well endowed feet ,more comfortable gear changing and braking
 
For all pre-MkIII, Clubman Racing sell an excellent set that seem to be re-branded by several vendors. Good quality, direct, simple fitment, and excellent in service. I've got a set on one bike, have installed nearly a dozen others, and sold another half-dozen or so, all with 100% satisfaction. Possibly the best value out there (if they are in stock, which can be a hit & miss).

Very similar to the Norvil kit in my spares box.
No matter what I did, the kick start was always a pain in the arse with that set up, for me at least.
 
Well...not applicable to everyone, but I installed the Alton e-start years ago and removed the kick-start lever at that time. When I installed the CNW rearset kit last month, I used the oEM shift lever because I didn't need the kick-lever offset clearance that the CNW rear-set shifter incorporates.
 
One of many pluses about the cNw kit is that it doesn’t incorporate a solid link from the gearbox to the frame like most other kits. Definitely on my wish list.
 
I haven't yet ridden with a pillion, the pegs are quite close to the passenger ones so that might be a bit restrictive for those who often carry a pillion.

I have rearsets on my '74 Interstate and had problems "mixing feet" with my passenger. I found a set of plans to make a pair of modified peg mounts from 1/8 inch stainless plate. They solved my problems and are difficult to notice from stock. They were easy to make with a band saw, grinder and files. I have a PDF of the plans if anyone is interested.
 
I’ve searched and haven’t found a definitive answer, I have a 1974 Interstate and I’m trying to work out if rearsets will give me a more comfortable riding position.
The standard pegs feel like they are to far forward so rearsets seem like a good fix but I also have aging knees that don’t like being bent to much (my inseam is 32 inches)
What are people’s thoughts and recommendations for rearsets (preferably available in Australia) thanks all, Rhys.

Yes! I had my bike set up with an Interstate tank/seat, UK bars and rear sets for a long time, and it felt very natural for my long arms/legs (34" inseam). I also had a one of hump seat I used with that set as well.

The rear sets were similar to clubmans, but no idea who made them. They worked very well.

When I did my resto mod, I went to NYC Norton rear sets, but I think those work much better on a race bike as there is too little clearance with the T160 style kicker for my big feet.

Just got me a set of Madass' Dunstall repops in the mail today, and they look great.

Hopefully these will work out and I wont end up like Nigel... :confused:
 
I am 6' and would love more comfortable riding position than stock.
Do rearsets also require a change from standard American-style handlebars to be practical?
If so, not thrilled about the idea of changing all the cables.
 
On mine I am going to rearsets for comfort, handlebars are untouched and test fitting shows it all works together without needing to lower or change the bars. I have the Eurobars which are lower to start with.
 
I think that totally depends on your body/riding angle preference. My first reaction is that it would NOT require a handlebar change but that's ME. I found that often when riding with the OEM pegs, I would move my feet back to the pillion pegs because it felt more comfortable to me. Of course, you can't operate the shifter/rear brake from the rear pegs.

FWIW, with the CNW rearset (I don't know about the others) the passenger pegs are eliminated so if you need passenger pegs, you would have to fabricate something.
 
I have the Madass rear sets. For me, 31" inseam they work well. However I use the "reverse shifter" not the Madass
link type which actually works better. But with the TTI box and having the box fitted with a Triumph shift pattern
using the reverse lever gave me back the original Norton pattern. The kicker is a MkIII which does clear the shift
(just). It does work but isnt really optimal. Im used to it at this point.
Related question: how can I make the kick lever longer? The T160 type doesnt clear the TTI box as far as I could
figure so what do I do to get a 2inch or so longer kicker? I really need the leverage.
 
For a C15 I cut 2 kickstarts but not in the middle, so for you 2" offset, I then took the long top and the long bottom and drilled and tapped both pieces on the cut end and used a stud to connect both parts leaving a gap. I then got the gap welded up plus the bolt and then dressed before plating.
 
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