Centerstand bushing question

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Hi,

I was going to replace the bushing in my centerstand One of the holes in the centerstand is quite snug. I just want to confirm my understanding that the centerstand should rotate on the bushing and the bushing shouldn't rotate in the cradle.

Eric
 
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The bushes/bushings should be tight in the swingarm. The swingarm and bushings rotate around the fixed spindle.
 
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The bushes/bushings should be tight in the swingarm. The swingarm and bushings rotate around the fixed spindle.

Oops, my subject was right, my posting (since edited) was wrong. I know the swingarm spindle is fixed due to that 1/4" bolt in the middle of it. I was wondering about the centerstand. I can't imagine the bushing would be intended to rotate in the cradle as that would make the cradle holes tend to wallow out. One of my centerstand holes seems snug on my new bushes, the other side's centerstand hole is a bit ovalized and I was going to have that hole welded up a bit along with a crack on my centerstand's crosstube.
 
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Oops, my subject was right, my posting (since edited) was wrong. I know the swingarm spindle is fixed due to that 1/4" bolt in the middle of it. I was wondering about the centerstand.

Ok, let's start again. The centre stand bushings aren't usually tight-fitting either in the cradle or the stand so the stand can rotate on the bushings.
 
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he was asking about the center stand. yes the stand should pivot on the bushing and the bushing stay stationary.

The bushes/bushings should be tight in the swingarm. The swingarm and bushings rotate around the fixed spindle.
 
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The whole centerstand bushing area is a slopfest at best that needs annual fresh grease.
An idea we talked about at a rally was to bore out bigger the oval worn out cradle holes to a true round and fit proper modern sealed bearings instead of the sloppy bushings arrangement.
Obviously a project that could be done during a winter teardown when doing the Swingarm fix.
 
Wasn't there something in the NOC tech book about drilling out the center stand holes and installing some sealed bearings?

Ray
 
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Scooter62

I did that with mine but not by drilling out. I had mild steel cups machined to suit 6201 2RS bearings (12 x 32 x 10), then welded the cups to the outside faces of the centre stand.
Used a new Andover Norton centre stand and HT 12mm through bolts, then cut stainless tube of the nearest sizes I had available to fit frame lug and stand holes, plus flat washers made from shim to give a working clearance.
Hacksaw, files and Bosch drill were involved, nothing fancy,
Not the easiest way and needs stainless, top hat flanged spacers machined up to make a finished job, but works OK.
Had to do it all in a hurry because my old centre stand broke in half a second time near the spring hole a month before the Austria rally.
Effort to lift the bike is similar to a well lubed stand with no slop on frame or stand holes to answer the original post, but will need no further attention.
 
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