Uneven run up to 3000 rpm

Status
Not open for further replies.
Woody850

Woody850

Joined
Sep 30, 2017
Messages
324
Country flag
I have addressed this in a similar thread but I now encounter other problems in that when running the bike for the first few miles all is well but once warm she begins to run unregularily, popping and cutting out for a second.
I am still waiting for my #19 pilots for the premiers and have the needles on the middle notch but still don't think the problem should be getting worse which it is. I've checked for air leaks at the headers but find none. I don't have a balance pipe either. As said this is in the lower rev range up to 3000 which points to the carbs I believe. I fear taking the bike out at the moment.
 
Carb issues related to throttle position, electrical issues are rev related. So mark your throttle at 1/4, 1/2 , 3/4 and full and see what throttle opening gives you the issue, if it's not related to throttle but still at 3000 then start looking at electrics.
 
Yes I have a Boyer and the contacts seem ok at the contacts and well insulated
 
About a 95% probability one or both wires from the pickup coils have fractured. A visual will not detect this. Use an ohmmeter, twist and shake the wires. Boyers are well known for this problem.
 
Had a similar problem. After checking all connections and the Boyer wires in the timing case the culprit turned out to be a bad coil. Bike ran fine till the coil warmed up and then it stared missing.
Just something to think about.
Pete
 
JimC said:
About a 95% probability one or both wires from the pickup coils have fractured. A visual will not detect this. Use an ohmmeter, twist and shake the wires. Boyers are well known for this problem.
Click to expand...

I had your symptoms and the cause was exactly as Jim states.

Also, Boyer miss behaves with a low battery. It’s a low probability, but it could be your battery and / or charging system.
 
If you Boyer doesn't have the small piece of rubber sleeve under the cable tie securing the pickup wires (see picture below) it's highly likely that the inner copper strands have sheared and are making sporadic contact. Even if you find they are not broken it's worth changing the connection method. There are many ways to do it, my own is here. As you can see I caught mine just in time.

I spoke to Boyer some weeks ago about my Powerbox and mentioned this issue, they reckon this piece of sleeve fixes the issue. I would be good to know if they are right, but personally i'm doubtful.




Cheers,

cliffa.
 
Also, 85% of carburetor problems are electrical.
 
Last edited:
I had your symptoms and the cause was exactly as Jim states.

Also, Boyer miss behaves with a low battery. It’s a low probability, but itcould be your battery and / or charging system.
Click to expand...

Hi Fast Eddie, I tried overcoming the weak battery problem by fitting an 18 AH lump.
Could the charging system still affect the running if the juice is there.
 
Not short term no. But if the charging system is not functioning correctly then even an 18ah battery will drain. Then you’ll get the symptoms.

If your sysmptoms exist even when you KNOW you have a fully charged battery, look elsewhere.
 
Deets55 said:
Had a similar problem. After checking all connections and the Boyer wires in the timing case the culprit turned out to be a bad coil. Bike ran fine till the coil warmed up and then it stared missing.
Just something to think about.
Pete
Click to expand...
Bad coil here, also. Same symptoms.
 
I have an old coil from a T140V of mine that would be the same to use as a spare wouldn't it?
 
Woody850 said:
I have an old coil from a T140V of mine that would be the same to use as a spare wouldn't it?
Click to expand...

Did you check the wires from the Boyer pickup coils with an ohmmeter? If not, you are probably going down the wrong rabbit hole with the coil. The probability of the wires fracturing is 100 times that of the coil failing.
 
Plugs? I was in the workshop today, rummaged through a pile of spark plugs, found some NGK Iridiums and thought I'll put those in. Got half a mile, popping and banging, turned round put the old plugs back, no problems.
 
When the bike starts misbehaving, is it on only one cylinder or both? Obviously you have a good battery charge and have changed the plugs, checked all connections,bad earth , used the Boyer fault finding options , tested the coils (hair dryer for warm test)and checked them for cracks, examined the inlet manifolds for cracks, replaced the needle valves ,cleaned pilots,checked fuel flow and dirt in fuel. It's a process of elimination as I've run boyers down to below 12v and they still start and run, boot it on wot an see what happens. These are faults that I've had on my own bikes over a period, may be of some help!
You say you don't have a balance pipe on exhaust or inlet?
 
Last edited:
I brought my Commando home dead loss when the zener died, about 300 miles total. That was when I discovered how little actual storage is in one of those highly rated but tiny Li batteries. Luckily it flamed out at the top of a hill that must run for 10 miles down into the scorching hot desert town of Osooyos BC.
Its also a dessert town and, much to the amusement of my riding friends I coasted the Norton right into the Dairy Queen parking lot, had a banana split, then bought a new 14 ah lead acid battery.
That ran the Boyer perfectly for the remaining 250 miles to home.
Long winded answer about using your 18ah dead loss, but I wanted to recall the banana split on hot day:)

Glen
 
Last edited:
Sorry for the late reply auldblue, I have just recieved a new boyer stator plate but need time to set it up. I have noted the sleeve on the new one and mine doesn't have it so I could be lucky.
Your list of searches I will follow, the carbs are new and work fine except for the #19 pilots which are still in the post. I had meant no balance pipe on the exhaust but the manifold balance pipe is in place.
On my T140V I junked the air slides, unfortunately for me the choke lever was mounted on the left manifold facing downwards on a through drilled hole, I need say no more. The last restoration I did was a Ducati 900ss which ran well on the old carbs but also kicked around at 3000 rpm. New needles and jets cured the problem completely but it all took time and I ask myself how long this one will take.
One question, what would be the ideal way to replace the boyer stator with the new one?
 
Ok, I got the #19 pilot jets and she runs much smoother in the lower range.
As mentioned I checked the contacts and the earthing. I can't be 100% sure but my suspect was the ignition switch which was loose and not grounded on the frame.
Of came some paint and I laid a copper washer to get it tight. After that she didn't kick around.
 
Woody850 said:
As mentioned I checked the contacts and the earthing. I can't be 100% sure but my suspect was the ignition switch which was loose and not grounded on the frame.
Of came some paint and I laid a copper washer to get it tight. After that she didn't kick around.
Click to expand...

The ignition switch doesn't need to be 'grounded'.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top