Production Racer Fairing Spacer (2012)

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Production Racer Fairing Spacer (2012)

Production Racer Fairing Spacer (2012)

Production Racer Fairing Spacer (2012)

Production Racer Fairing Spacer (2012)

Production Racer Fairing Spacer (2012)


https://www.facebook.com/groups/10302209470/

There is a discussion going on in the Norton Commando Facebook group about a spacer for the Norvil (Les) Production Racer fairing mount. Some of you might recall that when I mounted my fairing the fork tops hit the instruments and I had to make (had made) some fork stop spacers. This left me with a very limited turning radius. I wrote it off as an artifact of a replica racer, but it was mentioned the there may be around three variations of the fairing mount and some do not cause the interference I saw.

I'm going to build a spacer this winter and see if it helps. The drawing that was provided wasn't very clear so I redrew it.

Has anyone here heard of this stuff before? It wasn't mentioned when I was installing mine.
 
Why not do another mounting bracket thats 7/8 longer ? ? Simlify & add lightness . ( as in copy the moount + .875 Length . )
 
Why not do another mounting bracket thats 7/8 longer ? ? Simlify & add lightness . ( as in copy the moount + .875 Length . )
Exactly what I did, not for clearance, but to push the headlamp further forward and cut glare from the inside of the fairing on main beam. I later painted the inside matt black also. I like the spacer idea, you can always revert and or sell the unmodded brkt and fairing and clip ons when the wrists can no longer take it :)
 
Exactly what I did, not for clearance, but to push the headlamp further forward and cut glare from the inside of the fairing on main beam. quote]

You can always use an old seat cover using Velcro to hold it inside the fairing.
 
Keith1069 said:
Why not do another mounting bracket thats 7/8 longer ? ? Simlify & add lightness . ( as in copy the moount + .875 Length . )
Exactly what I did, not for clearance, but to push the headlamp further forward and cut glare from the inside of the fairing on main beam. I later painted the inside matt black also. I like the spacer idea, you can always revert and or sell the unmodded brkt and fairing and clip ons when the wrists can no longer take it :)

Did you have a clearance problem? Who made your bracket?
 
I moved the headlamp forward like this:


Production Racer Fairing Spacer (2012)




Simple and it also made it possible to align the lamp horizontally.
 
Just to be clear the problem isn't the light location, although it could be improved, but the turning radius.

Production Racer Fairing Spacer (2012)
 
This was clear to me. The turning radius is also limited by the clip-ons. Won't those touch the fearing ?
 
" Just to be clear the problem isn't the light location, although it could be improved, but the turning radius. "

It sounds like the Advance Unit .
:D If you run more initial advance , a bit of throttle should light up the rear
and youll get good throttle steering & a tight turning radius . 8) :p :wink: .
 
Did you have a clearance problem? Who made your bracket?
No I didn't dave, it was only to stop the glare from main beam which was lighting up the inside of the fairing (was white, now matt black). I extended those side arms by welding extensions and redrilling. My bracket is from Mick Hemmings and is different in that it accepts both Smiths and Veglia instruments and eliminates the twin tubular brackets. These are replaced with a curved strip for the headlight welded to a single tube coming off the front clamp. Only problem with this is that in 600 miles the main tube fractured under the headlight weight. I rewelded with a tube for triangulation and it has survived since Jan 07 (15,000 miles now). Only the side brackets continued to be a problem, the clamps cracking thru' the outer half. These were 1" wide tube which I've now remade in 1.5" width and they're holding up.
 
I've learnt to live with the small turning circle which means I have to position the bike at junctions carefully when going left or right. With the Hemmings design you get a little more compared to Norvil (original design) but not much. Tight, small diameter roundabouts are a challenge to wobble round. This pic shows where my stanchions hit the instrument brkt (rubber buffers glued in place). I could get more lock but the brake pipe already gets a good workout against the brkt tubes and it's already routed best way I can see.
Production Racer Fairing Spacer (2012)
 
Hello,

Got a Norvil fairing installed yesterday finding out as you all point, that the top yoke hits the bracket resulting the turn radius dramatically reduced and really dangerous into the city traffic. On the road it goes great but I use the bike as my daily ride and that means to go downtown to work and so on. Before trying to sell it on ebay I was thinking that maybe someone has found out how to solve the problem as I love how the bike looks now and the riding position is a gas but not enough as to ride it again into the city.

Thanks for the help,


Aquilino
 
I would not recommend this style of bike for riding in the city. Out on the back roads its a blast.
 
Worth noting that my Ducatis have about a third of the steering lock-to-lock range of a standard Commando as per race bike practice, so I'd say the 'correct' thing to do would be to work on the lock-stops and accept the reduced range.
After the first scare I got used to it pretty quickly on the Ducatis, and it's never an issue once on the move.
I don't do city commuting on it though!

Race bikes & replicas - 'discuss'... :wink:
 
This morning went for a spin on secondary roads and enjoed it as never before.
Back into the garage I needed to move the bike back and forth over 10 times to park the bike :(

Well... life is!

Thanks for the help!
 
B+Bogus said:
Worth noting that my Ducatis have about a third of the steering lock-to-lock range of a standard Commando as per race bike practice, so I'd say the 'correct' thing to do would be to work on the lock-stops and accept the reduced range.
After the first scare I got used to it pretty quickly on the Ducatis, and it's never an issue once on the move.
I don't do city commuting on it though!

Race bikes & replicas - 'discuss'... :wink:

They are for posers who don't have the balls to get on the track. :mrgreen:
 
I know this is an old thread but I have just finished building a proddy racer for the road and have the same poor turning radius as discussed earlier. Does anyone know where you can get the alloy spacer that goes between the steering head and fairing bracket? I have seem it advertised somewhere but can't find it again. I can make one but it won't be easy.
 
Well had no lock restrictors on my Avon fairing and I think you can get replicas from Grove Classics-its basically the fairing fitted to the Velo record breaker Aerodynamically a superb piece of kit. Unfortunately can no longer manage rear sets so its all had to come off.

There is norton service sheet tuning notes that illustrates all the original parts for production racer wonder if spacer is shown.
 
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Well had no lock restrictors on my Avon fairing and I think you can get replicas from Grove Classics-its basically the fairing fitted to the Velo record breaker Aerodynamically a superb piece of kit. Unfortunately can no longer manage rear sets so its all had to come off.
Thanks but I want to keep the fairing I have so will keep trying. I also found out the rear sets need getting use to. The first time I sat on the bike I got a cramp and nearly fell off!
There is norton service sheet tuning notes that illustrates all the original parts for production racer wonder if spacer is shown.
Thanks for responding. I have the service sheets for the Proddy racer and nothing is shown, I think because it is OK for racing but for street its too restictive. The problem with the Norvil fairing mount is that the instruments hit the bracket which is OK on a track but no good for small roundabouts.
 
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