More clutch adjustment details... (2016)

[Bob Z.]

I had the joy of disassembling, cleaning, and adjusting a clutch this weekend.
It was dragging just a bit, felt during first shift into first gear as a slight crunch as the gears engaged.
Also needed some added foot pressure to shift gears.
Cured by reducing the stack height by .005-inch by replacing with a thinner friction plate.

Also when adjusting for the clutch rod free play I used a little different method.
Backing off the clutch cable adjuster at the handlebars and then turning in the adjusting screw in the diaphram spring until touching the push rod and backing off 1/2 turn is the by the book method.
This time I took off the gearbox inspection cover and felt the release arm for free play with the push rod. Turn the adjusting screw in until this free play is reduced to about 3/16-inch.
Probably exactly the same as backing off 1/2 turn but I felt confident that the specified free play was made before locking the nut.
Then finally adjust for the free play in the clutch cable.
Nice gear shift feel again.

 

[The Buckeye Rider]

Good going Bob,
That's how I do it too. Seems with the extra plate installed the 1/2 turn out is a little much.
Set it and forget it. Till next time.
Ride On
Dave

 

[Woody850]

I've been piddling around with the adjustment for ages now and at the best there is still drag when warm which doesn't allow finding neutral very easy. At the lever there is very little play and the clutch bites very early which can be alarming but one gets used to it. I have backed the push rod adjuster off about half a turn which seems the optimal position after many trys, any more and the lever goes hard and requires enormous effort to operate. Too less and the clutch simply won't separate thus this adjuster setting but the cable aduster on the handlebar must be screw leaving almost no play on the lever.
I must add I fitted a gearbox oil seal to the end of the shaft but I can't see how that should interfere.
On starting I always kick the clutch over to free the plates when cold and the clutch spins freely with no friction.

 

[bill]

what clutch plates are you using? if bronze get rid of them and use the green barnett's. does the center hub have ANY notching? if so replace. are ALL the plates perfectly flat? this critical as it WILL cause issues with drag and early engagement.

 

[Woody850]

Hi bill, as far as I can make out they are original plates with groove transpiring outwards for what I expect to be oil. There is no notching thankfully. WhatI can't understand before disassembly the clutch did work well before I took it apart. The circlip is also not broken behind the the clutch housing. I guess that I must check if they are flat.

 

[L.A.B.]

I have backed the push rod adjuster off about half a turn which seems the optimal position after many trys, any more and the lever goes hard and requires enormous effort to operate. Too less and the clutch simply won't separate thus this adjuster setting but the cable aduster on the handlebar must be screw leaving almost no play on the lever.

Adjusting the pushrod clearance (at least within the normal range of up to one turn out) shouldn't alter the clutch pull by as much as you describe.

Reducing pushrod clearance also advances the point at which the spring begins to lift so reducing the clearance shouldn't be preventing the plates from separating.
Under normal circumstances it should be possible to get a reasonable amount of free-play at the lever.

Are you sure the lifter arm inside the gearbox hasn't dropped out of position? This can happen if the clutch mechanism is operated when the clutch adjuster is backed off too far or when the spring is not in position.

What I can't understand before disassembly the clutch did work well before I took it apart.

Which suggests something may not be assembled correctly now.

 

[Woody850]

Hello L.A.B.
I take it you mean the diaphram spring.
My real problem is I have to screw the handlebar adjuster out to obtain enough lift but the limit is unobtainable to achieve complete separation.
One half turn is the middle measurement I found, any more then my strength fails to operate.
Hopefully this picture shows my mechanism in the correct place.

 

[Woody850]

I would be grateful if somebody could explain how to upload a picture

 

[L.A.B.]

I take it you mean the diaphram spring.

Yes.

My real problem is I have to screw the handlebar adjuster out to obtain enough lift but the limit is unobtainable to achieve complete separation.

It sounds as if the lifter arm could be reaching the end of its travel before the clutch is fully lifted which suggests the cable is overadjusted to compensate for an underadjusted pushrod, or the lifter arm is out of position?

Did you slacken the cable off completely before setting the pushrod adjustment?

One half turn is the middle measurement I found, any more then my strength fails to operate. Hopefully this picture shows my mechanism in the correct place.

Not entirely, so can you confirm the lifter arm is set correctly?

I would be grateful if somebody could explain how to upload a picture

That's only available to VIP members. Non-VIPs need to upload to a photo hosting site like https://postimages.org/ then paste the "Hotlink for forums" link into your message.

 

[Woody850]

The lifter arm is I am quite sure in the correct position and yes I did completly slacken of the cable.
This is where it brings me to suspect the rod oil seal but I struggle to understand.

 

[cyclegeezer]

The lifter arm is I am quite sure in the correct position and yes I did completly slacken of the cable.
This is where it brings me to suspect the rod oil seal but I struggle to understand.

While checking to see if the lifter arm is set properly, make sure the clutch release roller, number 36 in the exploded diagram for the gearbox outer cover, is free to roll and doesn't have a big worn spot from being over tightened. That along with a loose lifter assembly, was 100% of the clutch trouble in the last Commando I worked on.

 

[bill]

the rod seal will have nothing to do with this trouble.

The lifter arm is I am quite sure in the correct position and yes I did completly slacken of the cable.
This is where it brings me to suspect the rod oil seal but I struggle to understand.

 

[MFB]

Notwithstanding the correctness or otherwise of the clearance settings in the clutch actuating mechanism, I have found that changing to belt primary drive has eliminated all drag and slipping that seems to standard fare with the wet clutch.

I didn't do anything special in the conversion process; I even used my old plates after soaking them in petrol for a while. I think I added an extra plate to lighten the clutch pull. I did add a clutch rod seal. And a primary side gearbox adjuster as recommended.

No slip, no drag, light action. Worth the money.

 

[74ok]

I would be grateful if somebody could explain how to upload a picture

https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/media-photo.24046/#post-355979

 

[Woody850]

I managed to post a picture of the actuator arm, does it look right?
I think so.
John

 

[L.A.B.]

does it look right?

Yes, it does.

 

[rvich]

The comment about checking the roller as well as the arm is a good one. I would also inspect the ends of the push rod and the ball bearing that sits behind the clutch release body. I wonder about the threads on the lock ring. If it hung up and did not thread all the way in would that create the problem you are having?

It may not be pertinent but I also remember seeing something about what happens if you end up with an Atlas arm in a Commando. Can't remember exactly where, maybe Mick Hemmings DVD, the part fits but has a different slope.