Broken again

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Kick starter nor engaging. Gearbox cover stuck on hard.any necessary upgrades while I'm in there.
 
Probably just the pawl. Get good gaskets. I like the ones from MAP Cycle. Uprated seals at the K/S shaft and gearchange shaft. X-rings as opposed to O-rings.
 
Get a genuine pawl, there maybe some cheap after market ones still out there. Knew a person who went thru several in a very short time, they were sourced from Domi Racer.
John in Texas
 
The DomiRacer enterprise was bought out by someone else. They may or may not still have the inferior stock...
 
PJ- forum members are being gentle with you, as they were me in my beginning, only mentioning simple stuff to comfort you till actually trying to open up the fossil in first place, so not listing the few (many) other things that can cause KS to swing free. Beside the moving rachet pawl, there's the steel rachet stop, that's riveted on and KS works through the big 1st gear cog, which has the thinnest weakest wear prone to fracturing bushing, that can mess with KS engagement. If you got the kick lever off w/o mentioning much trouble, good omen. Outter cover removal can make you feel so incompetent as it hangs u on the shafts and shifter peg. I found levering more at bottom eases it off and replacing it by starting/bumps more at the bottom seems less frustrating. Once outer cover off the rest is comes apart rather too easy, which makes reassembly less easy. If gearbox only on 1st or 2nd time its been opened, expect a couple hindered bux in parts, bushes, bearings etc to replace. Manual and respected advisers all use gaskets, but I ran out of them so tired just goop to be pleased it also took care of the shaft end play shimming tedium delays. Oh yeah need to learn about the several options to seal KS shaft.

Btw the sleeve bushes that spin in 1-2-3 gears, sit below resting oil level, sling any oil out while in lower gears, to easy run dry in low gears, only getting some oil by drain down past thin bush cervices in 4th, so remember what it takes to replace these bushes while delaying shifting to 4th. Factory pair of sleeve bushes tend to slide out of best load baring positions, so can put a worn short bush in between or get the longer set/pair. Not bad idea to oil groove these. Oh yeah likely have to ream some bushes to fit so have those tools on hand or farm out.

Once you get back to replacing outer cover, with all the rusted stuff cleaned up and secured, spray with paint, color or clear to help keep it that way. Easy to over fill with oil, but no problem, as will leak back out to seek its own level to note there after.
 
Nothing in workshop Manuel about fixing kick start. Guess I'm on my own
Any info to help?


Follow the manual instructions regarding removal of the outer and inner covers.
Remove the kickstart shaft from the inner cover, push out the pawl pin taking care not to lose the spring and plunger, check there are no cracks in the shaft, check the ratchet teeth inside 1st gear for excessive wear, check the pawl plates for wear, fit new pawl, reassemble.
 
When I pulled my outer cover to change over to X rings (which does indeed seem to have stopped my leaks), I couldn't budge the cover. Then, I pulled the clutch lever in; pop! Jumped out about 1/4"...
 
A couple of reluctant covers I've dealt with come right off with the application of some heat and a few whacks with a rubber mallet while pulling outward on the offending piece.
 
As above Old Britts, or Mick Hemmings does a DVD of gearbox rebuild, available from NOC.
 
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