It's a long way to 920 type(rary)

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Brooking 850 said:
Yves, yes I change the break in oil after the 60 kms, then use the Driven HD50
Yes Ginger Malloy still about, he turns up to a lot of race meetings
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I was racing my self in the side car when Ginger was racing, I never talk to him, but if you meet him say hello from a big fan from Belgium
Yves
 
Hi There,
Here, is what I did to day:
I push on the start button w/o ignition, nothing happens!! I take the stator off and see that the chain from the starter was not setting good anymore, I take the plate that hold the system in place, that relieve the tension on the starter chain so I put the chain back on the sprocket and fit the steel plate in place, no problem anymore...
To me the problem was coming when I turn the crank clockwise to find 28 BTDC.
I retorque the cranck nut.
When I receive the fluted bolts from Jim Schmidt, I believe that one of the bellevil washers where lost, I buy some new one and put four of them on the four bolts near the sparkplugs and two small one on the studs coming out in the front of the head, so far so good I think but no...In fact I receive the good number of beleville washers from Jim but the tree larges are suppose to com under the bolts from the studs from the head to the cylinder; so I put the bolts off one by one and but a bellevile under the bolts
No problem to put the two bolts on the front but the one on the back is another story, I must take the carbs off, but still dificult to put the bolt and washer with the start engine in place, I dont have the fingers from Jerry Lee Lewis, but fat short fingers; after a lot of trys the wonder happens, whit the help from the tip of a screw driver with grease on it, job done....
I re- torque te other bolt and nuts and leave the belevil washers under the four bolts near the sparkplugs and the one under bolt # 1
I call it a day
Tomorrow polishing day and put the carbs and exhaust on
Keep you posted
Yves
 
"no file to fill up the gap" you're funny Yves. thanks for posting this thread it is great to read and see your progress. C.j.
 
Hi there
still cold here in Belgium, my first work to day was to drop a family Polar Bears out of my workshop, they like cold and it was cooler in the workshop as outside..
Back to the Seeley now: first put the carbs on the engine, change the routine from some oil lines, polishing the primary outer cover, this one is coming from CNW, it's billet alloy, top to polish, put the cover on the engine with new O ring and Permatex sealand, tomorrow I will put the 200cc oil in the transmission, BTW: I use Primary Chain Oil from Harley Davidson.
I put the heaters on the engine and tomorrow I will polish the silencer and the heat shild from the Maney 2 in 1 and put it on the bike, this will be the last big work before finish. tomorrow I will start the bike for the second time and strobe the Tri Spark ignition at 28 degrees BTDC, Tri Spark says that the ignition will be full advanced at 3.500 RPM, so I will first put a heater near the engine to warm up, hope that the static setting of the ignition is close to perfect...
I forgot to say that I change all the oil seals in the engine and that I use the special one from Maney on the crank (transmission side) I use the Maney oil seal for years w/o any problems. The first test ride is coming closer every day, they give better weather next week, so maybe....
I still have 560 details to do on the bike, most of them are cosmetics.
I plan to retroque the head on friday, I have one question: I put 0.15mm clearence on the intake and 0.20mm on the exhaust, is this OK ot should I try to go tigher??
Keep you posted
Yves
 
yves norton seeley said:
....... I have one question: I put 0.15mm clearence on the intake and 0.20mm on the exhaust, is this OK ot should I try to go tigher??
Keep you posted
Yves
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Yves, go with JSM figures as you have a JSM valve train, but....with alloy barrels and steel pushrods Steve Maney would suggest that you can just rotate the pushrod, so a very tight clearance....so yes, I think you could and maybe should go tighter.
 
SteveA said:
Yves, go with JSM figures as you have a JSM valve train, but....with alloy barrels and steel pushrods Steve Maney would suggest that you can just rotate the pushrod, so a very tight clearance....so yes, I think you could and maybe should go tighter.
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Hi Steve,
I have alloy barrels and the pushrods from JSM are also alloy not steel???
Yves
 
A bit loose is better than a bit too tight Yves!

I’d leave them a tad loose.

I took Sams tip a while ago, when bedding in a new gasket, I leave the tappers quite loose so I can nip up the head bolts without having to re do the clearances every time!

To really understand your needs, I would check when hot.
 
Hi There, what I did to day:
I polish the exhaust silencer and heat shild, I put a heater close to the engine for 3 hours and then start the engine and strobe the ignition, I must give it 2 degrees advance, then, when the engine was runing I saw mayo coming out of the tube conected to the reed valve, a lot of mayo..
So tomorrow I will retroque the head and look at the oil inside the tank, for more details about the mayo look at my tread
"Milk....
Keep you posted
yves
 
Yves,

FWIW, I do not believe your milk is anything to worry about. It is ‘only’ moisture from condensation and is thus eradicated when the engine gets up to correct operating temperature, which shouldn’t take too long for you with 460cc explosions happening each stroke!

But... if you have mounted a breather to the cases in the place provided by Maney (is that correct? Is that where you’ve mounted it?) then you have it mounted in a place where it is an ideal ‘wet sump cure’ as it will very quickly expel any excess oil in the crank cases out of the breather.

Naturally, as breather is not routed to the oil tank, or into a catch tank, that oil is gonna splash out everywhere!

However, when the engine has emptied any excess, I don’t think much more oil comes out of it during normal running. So, if you’re disciplined enough to empty the sump before each ride, you may not need to modify your oil tank.

If I were you, I would experiment with a catch tank to see how much comes out of the breather hose during normal running before hacking your oil tank apart!

I don’t know what a Seeley is like, but I’m guessing that removing the oil tank to modify it is not a 5 minute job? And also, unless the oil tank is baffled correctly, modifying it might create more problems with oil coming out of the tank breather hose!
 
Fast Eddie said:
Yves,

FWIW, I do not believe your milk is anything to worry about. It is ‘only’ moisture from condensation and is thus eradicated when the engine gets up to correct operating temperature, which shouldn’t take too long for you with 460cc explosions happening each stroke!

But... if you have mounted a breather to the cases in the place provided by Maney (is that correct? Is that where you’ve mounted it?) then you have it mounted in a place where it is an ideal ‘wet sump cure’ as it will very quickly expel any excess oil in the crank cases out of the breather.

Naturally, as breather is not routed to the oil tank, or into a catch tank, that oil is gonna splash out everywhere!

However, when the engine has emptied any excess, I don’t think much more oil comes out of it during normal running. So, if you’re disciplined enough to empty the sump before each ride, you may not need to modify your oil tank.

If I were you, I would experiment with a catch tank to see how much comes out of the breather hose during normal running before hacking your oil tank apart!

I don’t know what a Seeley is like, but I’m guessing that removing the oil tank to modify it is not a 5 minute job? And also, unless the oil tank is baffled correctly, modifying it might create more problems with oil coming out of the tank breather hose!
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Hi Nigel
Here what I did this moning: I remove the wet sump bolt to see if there was more oil wet sumping as normal, but no! I dont see any mayo in the oil coming out, then I look in the oil tank, oil was looking good, of course I know that if there is water it will be below the oil, but so far I don't see any...
This afternoon I will retrorque the head and after I will start the engine with the hose coming from the PVC valve in a catch bottel and see if the mayo is still there when engine hot.
About the oil tank: I put 2.5 liters oil in the tank, so it's only half full, I don't think there will be problems with oil coming out of the tank breather even if the tank is not baffled.
My main concern is the mayo going in the normal return line, but I think the mayo will stay in the oil filter, maybe... the question is: can the mayo contamined the oil??
I will take the oil tank out and weld a fitting for the hose from the PVC, again a few days work more
Keep you posted
Yves
 
Hello Yves,

Is your breather pipe a new one or could this "milk" have been inside the pipe from before the engine was stripped and is only now being blown out? Perhaps a short piece of clear pipe attached to the engine breather outlet straight into a container might tell you what is actually happening now.

Regards, Al.
 
Hello Al,
The hose is a new one, this afternoon I re-torque the head and start the engine with a clear hose from 30cm on the PCV, I put the end of the hose in a tupperware, at the begining no oil or mayo but after a while a bit of milk was coming out; not mutch, nothing to compare with yesterday...
So I will take the oil tank out of the frame and make a fitting for the hose, this is work for monday
Keep you posted
Yves
 
I keep a eye on the "normal" return from the oil filter to the oil tank, everithing good and no mayo, and I don't understand this... Why mayo coming from the PCV and not via the normal return line??? maybe the oil filter keep the mayo away???
Yves
 
See the image of Yves sump breather below. Yes it helps with wet sumping. Instead of welding in a new tube to the oil tank - you could thread a brass fitting into the oil cap.

The oil is turning to mayo because it is mixing with cold blowing air. You won't have this problem in warm weather.

It's a long way to 920 type(rary)


It's a long way to 920 type(rary)
 
Hy there,
Here is what I did to day:
Drain the oil from the wet sump, no more as a cup of coffee, start the engine to warm up the oil with the hose from the PCV in a Tupperware, no milk in the begining and after just a little.
When the oil hot, I drain the oil, disconect all the hose from the oil tank, take the rear fender out to make place and take the oil tank out, then to the machine shop to make the fiting for the PCV hose, after to the welder to weld the fiting on the tank, cleaning the inside of the tank, I find some tear at the bottom, must not be a problem before becouse the fiting that bring the oil to the engine is 2 cm higer as the bottom, and to finish the day polishing the tank, looks like chrome!
Tomorrow I will put the tank back in the frame and make all the oil connections.
Hope to have the Seeley on the road before the end of the week
Yves
 
Hi there
D day is coming closer, it will be friday...
The oil tank is back in the frame, connections made, brake in oil in, PCV hose connected, and I start the engine; like always, no milk in the hose in the first minute and after just a littel, I look in the tank and don't see any milk on the oil inside the tank???
When I made the fitting for the PCV hose, I made a restriction inside from 8mm to 6mm, can this explain that the milk stay in the hose??
There was also no milk or oil coming out the tank breather....
Will know more on friday
Keep you posted
Yves
 
First road test done to day
I did a 10kms road test to day, I keep it below 4000 RPM, and what can I say: more torque for sure and the feeling that the HP will come at higher revs with the JS2 Smoothramp cam,I know this becouse I was using the normal JS 2 cam on my 850, the weather was sunny but still cold (8 degrees celsius) depending on the weather I will do other road tests in the next days.
Carbs setting looks OK so far and no vibes at all, thanks to the long rods from Jim Schmidt and the work from the balancing shop Dinamiquil here in Brussels.
No mecanical noises
Tomorrow I will re-torque the head and tchek everything and hopefully an other road test.
So, to soon to make conclusions, but it looks promessing for the future and for the Police speed traps also...
Keep you posted
Yves
 
Yes!

I can't wait to go for a ride together...even if something tells me that all I will see from you will be your back wheel disapearing in the distance!! ;)
 
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