About time I posted an update. Also high time to have a proper thread name.
Haven't done all that much since the belt drive went on. Nantucket has springtime rush that takes over your life from March 1st till June 15th but it pays the bills and builds the toys.
Anyway, as predicted, the big-ass alloy tank is running afoul of the triple trees and forks. I've got some work to do on steering stop modification.
I need to make lots of final adjustments but the interference is obvious
I think I might want to shorten the bars when I get it all dialed in. That might not be an option if the bar angle ends up wide to help get clearance.
I think I'll end up adding studs or bolts with locknuts to the original steering stop bosses. Probably have to disassemble to whole front end to drill and tap without damaging anything. That sucks!
Any input appreciated. I'm sure I'm not the only one to have had this problem. I really want to use this tank so I'll do what it takes to make the front end comply.
Those are just bare clip-ons, wait 'till you get controls bolted up, you'll need LOTS more clearance.
You need to look into a set of Thomaselli adjustable clip-ons to get additional adjustability and clearance.
I have a set of vintage racing clip-ons that have a "U" shaped pipe that you clamp inverted into the standard bar mounts, which then take a set of slip-ons that have 7/8" clamps that you can position anywhere along the drops. They're a little bit hard to make out in this shot on my '68 YDS3 GP replica-
These Apex riser are a nice solution a variety of problems with clipons, the big one for me being a sore back and other body parts.
These bars] can be adjusted for anywhere from zero to about 4" rise plus are infinitely adjustable in other directions as well. The clamp collars can be pivoted to change the overal width of the bars. The bars themselves have an eccentric end with eight drilled and pinned positions to choose from for their orientation in the riser block These different positions allow you to set the bars to slope down a lot, a little, sit level or run uphill a lot or a little.
You can also move the position of the bars forward or backward on the bike quite a lot.With these bars there is no reason not to have a comfortable riding position.
I thought Swooshdave, with his aches and pains, might make use of something like this on his bike. It looks like there is room in the fairing cutaway for a bit taller bar position. Even two inches of elevation in the bars make a big difference to rider comfort on a long haul. With the fairing and everything else going on, you would hardly notice the change in appearance from regular clipons.
the old swan neck clip ons from the first F B Manx ( type ) might sort it out .IF you want higher hand grips .
Come off the staunchions out and up @ 45 deg, & about a 4 in radius curve , so hands are just over top of tank .
If theres cricks when your concious in the back , they could solve that problem too .
Theres a pic or two around of a 1950 Manx , cant dig it out here .Non cut out tank .
I have the earlier style stops like you I assume that are just bosses molded into the headstock. Some sort of add-on similar to SwooshDave's might be a way to go. I'll be doing some staring at it.
I kind of like the idea I have of adding a screw or bolt to the original boss to give me my adjustment.
Got the other leg on tonight.
Looks a little more balanced.
A few pics ov the overall so far. This project has been a bigger challenge than the last basket case mostly due to lack of time now in my life but the view from here is worth it.
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