Worthwhile "upgrades" - incl belt drive/E-start

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For what it is worth here is my .02, I've been sorry a number of times now buying Norton parts from the lowest bidder.
At least CNW parts seem to be selected and engineered to work and it is worth paying for that to me.
With the differing skill levels we have folks who have to ask what battery to buy, and folks who could build a crank.
Some aren't going to need CNW's customer support, but a lot will be happier to get an engineered product that is right the first time.
 
bill said:
Mike
Most belt drive kits will be the same as toe stock ratio so your gearing will stay the same . I mentioned toe overdrive OPTION as just that and the benefits of taking that route and you would have to recalculate what countershaft sprocket to run for the overall final drive ratio.

COCO
I did not diss CNW for PRICE, QUALTY or SERVICE so calm down they have some of the best stuff out there and service second to none. I know there is extra machine work and parts in his kit but IMHO the sealed brg is not worth $205.00 TO ME. his chain,sprocket and drum prices are not that far off from frank's as individual parts. as to your opinion on the best belt drive it is just that OPINION but any belt drive has the chain primary beat hands down. my norvile has been trouble free for 25,000 miles on the same belt
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I'm really sick with a nasty cold so I'm probably feeling overly combatative today. Bill, my post was not directed at you personally but I've been reading posts about people complaining about CNW prices alot over the last year or so and I felt compelled to mention something. If I came off as agitated it was not my intent.

I have no experience with Norvil belts and when I shopped around for a belt drive for a Triumph project, I looked at them all (except Norvil obviously) and Newby offered the highest quality product when compare to Hayward, MAP or QPD.
 
My complete primary belt kit was $475, a Norvil unit, purchased from Fair Spares some ten years ago. Would do it again with no hesitation.
Still have original belt, have no idea how long it will last, I have heard somewhere around 20K miles with street use, and I ride like an old lady.
 
One question re belt drive...I assume it can handle the same load as the chain can as far as "abuse?"

Or, put another way, if you were drag racing your Norton, would you use the oem chain or a belt drive?
 
ludwig said:
bill said:
...norvil claims 4 1/4 pounds lighter than stock so than it a 4 1/2 lighter hammer beating on the gearbox
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You can save much more weight than that !
The complete 850 clutch with bronze plates weights almost 6 kg . without oil in the primary , you no longer need bronze plates .
With a little effort you can get your clutch below 3 kg , thats 3 kg or about 7 lbs less , + the chain ..
Because most of the weight gain is in the basket away from the centre , I am pretty shure rotational energy is reduced by at least 75 %
I could find the formula , but I am too stupid to calculate it exactly .
It's the best thing you can do to save the teeth on your gearbox sprockets .
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I dont know how or what parts norvile uses to calculate for the weight savings. you are right on the bronze plates and one more reason why I have 5 surflex plates in my clutch.
 
MexicoMike said:
One question re belt drive...I assume it can handle the same load as the chain can as far as "abuse?"

Or, put another way, if you were drag racing your Norton, would you use the oem chain or a belt drive?
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I have not seen any issues why a belt cant handle any less abuse than the chain. I learned a LONG time ago about drag racing a norton and I WONT do it anymore. if I was I would not attempt it with out a FAR BETTER CUSH DRIVE
 
I doubt any belt is quite as strong as a good chain, but don't think for a minute that that makes a difference on a 50HP bike. And the other advantages of a belt tip the scales fairly decisively.

I still run a chain in the primary but belt-drive is on my "someday" list.
 
I have a Norvil belt drive for years, and other 10000 miles, with no others problems that a sticky clutch from time to time...I made some opening for ventilation and if I want Norvil is selling different pulleys/clutch baskets to alter the primay ratio. I know of two others ES options: Quiet Power Drive (belt) and a French company still making a prototype with primay chain and a max of 1000.00 Euros as price...I'll post news on the later as soon as I hear more!
Philippe
 
"I learned a LONG time ago about drag racing a norton and I WONT do it anymore. if I was I would not attempt it with out a FAR BETTER CUSH DRIVE"

I understand! I don't plan to drag race the bike but I don't want to spend money to buy a weaker system than oem.
 
prmurat said:
I have a Norvil belt drive for years, and other 10000 miles, with no others problems that a sticky clutch from time to time...I made some opening for ventilation and if I want Norvil is selling different pulleys/clutch baskets to alter the primay ratio. I know of two others ES options: Quiet Power Drive (belt) and a French company still making a prototype with primay chain and a max of 1000.00 Euros as price...I'll post news on the later as soon as I hear more!
Philippe
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Philippe, what do you mean by "a sticky clutch from time to time"?
 
When the bike is cold or after a long freeway use (without using the clutch), the clutch has a tendency to grab and stay stuck till I rev the engine, with the clutch in, to free it.
Philippe
 
prmurat said:
When the bike is cold or after a long freeway use (without using the clutch), the clutch has a tendency to grab and stay stuck till I rev the engine, with the clutch in, to free it.
Philippe
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what type or brand of clutch plates do you have??? do you have a clutch push rod seal???
 
I have, had now as I am rebuilding the bike, a stock -74 clutch and an hydraulic command/set up with Magura kit for CR250. No seal on the pushrod.
Philippe
 
The pushrod seal at the clutch center keeps tranny lube from migrating in to the clutch stack and fouling the friction plates to the point of making them sticky.
 
prmurat said:
I have, had now as I am rebuilding the bike, a stock -74 clutch and an hydraulic command/set up with Magura kit for CR250. No seal on the pushrod.
Philippe
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I am with grandpaul. the bronze plate's will stick and drag from gear oil migrating out of the clutch pushrod. they are also VERY hard on the clutch hub center beating notches into it which will also cause clutch drag.at the very least I would remove the plates and give them a VERY good cleaning to remove ALL oil from them and install a pushrod seal along with inspecting the center hub for notching.
 
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