Working tank sealing system?

I wonder if there would be likely to be any amount of interest in a fuel tank sealing system, that would work properly with GRP tanks? Been following the threads covering the rather silly tank snake oils with interest, and bearing in mind a professional solution to problem fuel tanks using the correct materials and application methods would cost a lot more than whats on offer currently, not sure whether or not this would be more attractive than a new Pakistani or Indian tank, or a used OE steel tank?

A proper working tank sealing system is certainly feasible technically, but this would need to be professionally applied, and cost of this service linked to the fact of the long well documented record of snake oil failures, may well mean its a non starter in commercial terms? Seems a real shame that none of the low volume producers of bike GRP have looked at this area properly, and are seemingly unable to offer GRP tanks that are resistant to Efuels! If they had, then GRP Norton tanks made using OE parts as a pattern, and guaranteed against attack by Efuel, may well provide something worth looking at.

I'd rather a chemical additive that neutralizes or gets rid of the ethanol $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

pelican said:

I'd rather a chemical additive that neutralizes or gets rid of the ethanol $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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I'd change the word chemical to political.

I see some of the Cafe style tanks being made with vinyl. It's upsetting the OE ones still are not.

the cheapest part on a brit bike is the nut that holds the handle bar's to the seat :lol:

Is there any point ? If ethanol is going to cause our carburetors to crumble and severely reduce 'driveability' (this was quoted in a UK specialist report by the FBHVC) then we're simply buying a little time before all vehicles over ten years old have been scrapped or consigned to museums.

I fear that the days of using old motorcycles in the way that was intended for them are severely limited.

In the meantime, if there was a company offering a proper lining service for steel tanks which would then give a clean de-rusted sealed tank ready for painting then I might well be interested if it were to be affordable - it doesn't have to be 'cheap' but it shouldn't cost £1000 either...

Unfortunately the various FBHVC reports I have seen on this subject appear to be driven rather more by commercial interests, than any desire to sort out fact from fiction!

bill said:

the cheapest part on a brit bike is the nut that holds the handle bar's to the seat :lol:

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Truer words were never spoken!

79x100 said:

Is there any point ? If ethanol is going to cause our carburetors to crumble and severely reduce 'driveability' (this was quoted in a UK specialist report by the FBHVC) then we're simply buying a little time before all vehicles over ten years old have been scrapped or consigned to museums.

I fear that the days of using old motorcycles in the way that was intended for them are severely limited.

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In a few more years we'll probably have to run on avgas or non-oxygenated race gas. You'll only be able to ride as far as you can get on a single tankful, unless you have a chase vehicle carrying more fuel. Time to sell off those Roadster tanks and start investing in Interstate tanks!

Debby

I drained my tank and left it to air for a couple weeks. while It's still in pretty good shape, I can see that some slight erosion has occured.
So if the cost were comperable to an original used or new steel tank then this would certainly peak my interest.

Right now in the Nebraska Legislature, they are arguing about taking the labels off gas pumps. A state senator wants to remove the "stigma" of using ethanol. I guess I'm lucky that we still have a choice here, as others don't. I've mentioned on threads in the past, that I've seen Minnesota stations plainly stating on pumps, that certain gas is to be used for old, hobby and farm vehicles. I hope that trend continues, and spreads to other areas. People need a choice, and need to know what they are putting in their vehicles. I've only used Amoco Ultimate in all my bikes, since it plainly states on the pump, that it contains no ethanol. Of course, you'll always get a little in the hose, if that's what the last person used, but as long as you are fairly low, it shouldn't be a problem. Right now, I have two Nortons and a T150 with steel tanks, a Velo with an alloy tank, and both a Speed Triple and BMW Dakar with plastic tanks, so I'm acutely interested in this. Even though I'm in the middle of the corn belt, from the sound of things, we've got it better here than other states.

shrugger said:

pelican said:

I'd rather a chemical additive that neutralizes or gets rid of the ethanol $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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I'd change the word chemical to political.

I would change the word ethanol to politician.

Maybe some sort of chemical additive to get rid of politicians rather than ethanol might help pretty much everyone?

FWIW ethanol has been a BIG problem for plastic Ducati tanks and some have had good results with the Caswell coating.....there is a thread on this at http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=46057.0 that has some tips and tricks on applying the Caswell coating that might be useful for a Norton tank too.(have no personal experience though, thankfully my bikes have steel tanks)

the cheapest part on a brit bike is the nut that holds the handle bar's to the seat
you guys crack me up...i love it. Cj

bluto said:

FWIW ethanol has been a BIG problem for plastic Ducati tanks and some have had good results with the Caswell coating.....there is a thread on this at http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=46057.0 that has some tips and tricks on applying the Caswell coating that might be useful for a Norton tank too.(have no personal experience though, thankfully my bikes have steel tanks)

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Some interesting comments on that forum!..........Not sure if they have grasped the simple fact that a very brittle epoxy resin isnt something thats likely to last long inside a flexible plastic tank without cracking, or that using any sort of solvent to thin down a resin may well inhibit proper cure process, unless steps are taken to evacuate the solvent from the tank interior.

The correct way to thin epoxy is to apply gentle heat, and this can be done pretty easily if you put the container holding the resin into a pan of boiling water. You do need to work quickly using this method though, as heating the resin will speed up the cure process considerably.