Hey all so I ordered a new harness for my 1973 850, I got the harness from old britts.com I got it totally in and in place. I'm having a couple issues with a coupl of extra wires which I know is going tohappen but not sure how many. I'm new to wiring. but any ways every time I connect the ground on the right sideof the bike near the rear tire. where the blue and brown wire connects tothe frame and the red wire I guess hangs because it wasn't connected on the original harness. any Idead whatisgoing on? am I missing something simple with this ground. I can'tseem to find anything in the manual or online. Thanks guys
Wiring issue
- Thread starter nr325996
- Start date
- Status
Are you wiring it positive earth, as per original ??
Best speak up, before we make a serious mistake ?
In that case, red is earth.
And blue&brown, NU in the diagram, is power.
One NU goes to the battery, via the fuse.
And another goes to the zener diode, on the big cast alloy potpegs etc plate.
Also goes to the blue thingy, and to the back of the master switch.
And to the power takeoff socket, which may be where you are right now ??
Or do we have something totally different here ?
Best speak up, before we make a serious mistake ?
In that case, red is earth.
And blue&brown, NU in the diagram, is power.
One NU goes to the battery, via the fuse.
And another goes to the zener diode, on the big cast alloy potpegs etc plate.
Also goes to the blue thingy, and to the back of the master switch.
And to the power takeoff socket, which may be where you are right now ??
Or do we have something totally different here ?
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 20,423
nr325996 said:
What you appear to be describing is the brown/blue (not blue/brown) Zener diode wire and red earth/ground harness pair.
The brown/blue normally has a wide insulated spade terminal that connects to the Zener diode fixed to the inside of the R/H Z-plate (rather than connected to the actual "frame") and the red earth/ground wire normally has a ring terminal that should be secured to a fastener close to the Zener diode.
Dirt2Oil said:
LAB's photo is right on (if i understand you correctly as well) look at parts 18,19,& 20 here
http://www.oldbritts.com/1973_g15.html
the bottom connection for the foot peg on that side uses and bolt, washer, & nut rather than studs and that backside of that is where that ground connects.
http://www.oldbritts.com/1973_g15.html
the bottom connection for the foot peg on that side uses and bolt, washer, & nut rather than studs and that backside of that is where that ground connects.
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2010
- Messages
- 45
35 amp fuse is too big, 20 amp much safer
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 20,423
michael levato said:
The original Lucas glass "35A" rating (as specified in manuals etc.) refers to the blow amps, so the original Lucas fuses are 17A continuous rating. These 35A blow (17A continuous) rated fuses are still available from British parts suppliers so it is important to fit a fuse with a 15A - 20A continuous rating if a different type is used.
- Status
