Why studs and not bolts for footrests?

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GraemeH

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I got very frustrated ordering all the various bits for fixing the z-plates, footrests, exhaust etc. Mainly because I missed some nuts and now am delayed another few days.

But why the heck did they use studs on the footrests and not simply bolts? According to the drawing, the left hand side uses 3 studs but the right side uses 2 studs and a bolt. Both z-plates have only 2 of the holes threaded, so a bolt is required for the 3rd fixing hole for sure.

The studs look slightly untidier than a bolt too IMHO

Why studs and not bolts for footrests?


Same goes for the front mudguard - it fixes with studs - wouldn't bolts have been simpler?

Why studs and not bolts for footrests?
 
Every time you take a bolt out or put one in aluminum you slightly damage the aluminum threads. That said, I always use button head Allen bolts for the fender but I stick with studs and use NyLock nuts for the footrests.
 
Makes sense I suppose, but why have threads in the z-plate for 2 of the holes but a straight through bolt for the 3rd?
 
GraemeH said:
Both z-plates have only 2 of the holes threaded, so a bolt is required for the 3rd fixing hole for sure.
Click to expand...

Because the bolt is used for the Zener earth/ground connection using UNC thin nut 20 and washer 19. If you had an 850 Mk3 then it would have a second bolt on the left hand (actually all three on the right are bolts due to the cast spacer) side for the second Zener earth/ground. All three holes in the Z-plates I have are threaded.
GraemeH said:
Same goes for the front mudguard - it fixes with studs - wouldn't bolts have been simpler?
Click to expand...

Mine has bolts, I don't know if they are original or not.
 
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My '72 came with three threaded holes but I remember drilling out one of the holes for mounting rearsets. That phase didn't last long.
 
Graeme, that may be a remnant of a rearset installation. The Dunstall-style rearsets that gained popularity in the 90s required drilling out the rear hole to 3/8" for a through bolt to mount the footrest to, while leaving the other 2 holes as stock - 5/16-18 (UNC).
 
GraemeH said:
I got very frustrated ordering all the various bits for fixing the z-plates, footrests, exhaust etc. Mainly because I missed some nuts and now am delayed another few days.

But why the heck did they use studs on the footrests and not simply bolts? According to the drawing, the left hand side uses 3 studs but the right side uses 2 studs and a bolt. Both z-plates have only 2 of the holes threaded, so a bolt is required for the 3rd fixing hole for sure.

The studs look slightly untidier than a bolt too IMHO
Click to expand...
Try this - result looks pretty good IMHO.
robs ss

Post in thread 'Footrest hanger - ARP hardware'

The ARP hardware arrived today.
The studs were, as I expected, too long so I shortened them from 1.7" to 1.4", including reducing the length of the domed end by 0.05"
Just hacksaw, bench sander and polishing wheel.
The dome is actually very handy in guiding the hanger on.
Here's the original and shortened length:
1.JPG


Installed studs with a bit of blue (243) and completed install:

2.JPG
3.JPG
Here's the heads of the button head bolts after about a dozen remove/refit cycles.
The hex keys are the right size but that many cycles of 25-30 ft.lb is hard on a small hex. The...
  • Like

Cheers
 
robs ss said:
Try this - result looks pretty good IMHO.
robs ss

Post in thread 'Footrest hanger - ARP hardware'

The ARP hardware arrived today.
The studs were, as I expected, too long so I shortened them from 1.7" to 1.4", including reducing the length of the domed end by 0.05"
Just hacksaw, bench sander and polishing wheel.
The dome is actually very handy in guiding the hanger on.
Here's the original and shortened length:
1.JPG


Installed studs with a bit of blue (243) and completed install:

2.JPG
3.JPG
Here's the heads of the button head bolts after about a dozen remove/refit cycles.
The hex keys are the right size but that many cycles of 25-30 ft.lb is hard on a small hex. The...
  • Like

Cheers
Click to expand...
Nice, Do have part numbers for the studs..
 
ashman said:
I just use allen head bolts have done so for over 40 years same bolts.
Click to expand...
With my belt primary the outer cover has to come off 2-3 times a year the check tension and de-dust.
As mentioned by someone above, I don't want to be screwing in and out of the ally Z-plates that often.
 
ARP = Sparkle Jewelry... Perhaps...
During Covid I assisted in rerigging a boat.
A alot of polished ARP fateners started showing.
All I could thing of was, what a waste of money. No worries he says, I get a good price.
Whatever.......:rolleyes:
And then I started using them. Whoa.... I realize they are "just' fasteners....however.......
It's just another level of precision. It's hard to describe till you've been there.
Are they necessary. Not really. Are they overkill, most likely. They are just nice.
And yes, some have found their way on my Norton....It can become a sickness.....
 
MichaelB said:
ARP = Sparkle Jewelry... Perhaps...
During Covid I assisted in rerigging a boat.
A alot of polished ARP fateners started showing.
All I could thing of was, what a waste of money. No worries he says, I get a good price.
Whatever.......:rolleyes:
And then I started using them. Whoa.... I realize they are "just' fasteners....however.......
It's just another level of precision. It's hard to describe till you've been there.
Are they necessary. Not really. Are they overkill, most likely. They are just nice.
And yes, some have found their way on my Norton....It can become a sickness.....
Click to expand...
My problem with ARP and any Stainless Steel is that people do not understand the ramifications of stainless on stainless, stainless in aluminum, and how any type of lube changes how tight you are getting things at a given torque. No anti-seize = big trouble coming. I'm tired of having to cut nuts and bolts off bikes and fix threaded holes in aluminum!

Of course ARP sells their own lube but who reads the instructions (if they even come with any).
 
Well I've been using allen head bolts in alloy for over 40 years and haven't had no problems with threads using them, but then my Norton is not a show pony and has been well ridden all the 50 years of ownership.
 
ashman said:
Well I've been using allen head bolts in alloy for over 40 years and haven't had no problems with threads using them, but then my Norton is not a show pony and has been well ridden all the 50 years of ownership.
Click to expand...
Yes, but your bike is magic, and the laws of chemistry and physics don't apply!

I assume you are talking about Allen cap screws or socket head screws because why would you use Allen head bolts and where would you get them?

Also, Allen cap screws come in various materials, not just stainless steel.

Finally, I have no trouble using stainless steel Allen cap screws in alloy either - I use anti-seize and in the old days, grease.
 
Mine had bolts from new and still has 53 years later. Switched to stainless versions about 40 years ago. I use antiseize on them and threads are still fine. They don't need to be very tight.
 
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