Whoa... scary

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So... I recently had a good scare when my rear tire had a sudden flat while making a left turn. The bike dropped an inch, the kickstand dragged and I almost messed myself all within less than a second :shock: . I don't know what happened next, I just reacted and somehow didn't lose control. WHEW! :D I'm not sure why I had the blowout. Maybe the tire went low it did start to feel strange to me about halfway home (kinda of soft in the steering). Next time the bike starts talking to me like that I 'll listen.

What kind of innertubes do you all use? I don't want to try that trick again.
 
Captain B said:
I'm not sure why I had the blowout.

How old was the tube?

Did you inspect the tube afterwards? Was it the correct size, and was it fitted correctly?
So how did the tube actually blow? Was the valve pulled out of the tube because the tyre started to creep on the rim due to low pressure (which is one good argument for keeping the security bolts/rim locks in place, or did the tube split? Because it won't really matter what make the tube is, if the tyre starts to creep on the rim, the valve will eventually rip out of the tube.
I try to use European brand tubes such as Michelin Airstop whenever possible, but the majority of tubes (available in the UK) seem to be either Taiwanese or Chinese-made these days, and even the Airstop tubes are now made in the Far East, I believe?
 
I've recently purchased several Michelin and Metzler tubes as well as a tube with the "Bikemaster" brand. All are made in PR China but the Michelin and Metzlers are much beefier and better constructed.
 
I look for good quality brands such as Michelin that are not made in India or China. The Indian-made tubes in my (now sold) Royal Enfield Bullet both blew out on me. They split at the seam. I've heard of that happening with Chinese tubes also, sometimes resulting in injuries. The Taiwan tubes used to be ok but I don't know if they still are.

Debby
 
I replaced original tires, tubes, and rubber bands on my Triumph. Had a similar situation but not going too fast and not in a turn. Turned out to be the spoke shaft sticking into the drop center of the rim. The new rubber stuff is not very thick or well made. I ground down the high spokes then rubber banded and taped the drop center. I considered the high dollar thorn proof tubes but they weighed a ton and cost almost as much as the tires. All is well now. Just check everything carefully.
 
OK. Here's the deal. The innertube was pinched by the rim lock. The rimlock has sharp edges compared to modern ones. The shop keeper suggested I take them off, that it doesn't need them. I bought new ones and had it all put back together with a new tube. Here's my dilema: The tire was mounted by an old highschool acquaintance, so I don't want to fuss, but is it neglagence on the part of the employee that mounted the tire? I bought a new tube and rim lock from him, but I feel like I should have at least gotten the "sorry we almost killed you discount".

What say you all? I am a newbe. I'm learning as I go. Was this just an unavoidable fluke? Do you all run with a rim lock?
 
If the shop suggested you eliminate the rim lock and you decided against their advice, then chalk it up to experience and move on. I never use a rim lock with modern tires and only with K81's if I want to keep the original appearance. I've never spun a tire on a rim without the rim lock.
 
I wasn't exactly sure what to do. I figured Norton put them on there for a reason and this advice did come from the shop that pinched the tube in there to begin with. So, do you think the pinch was unavoidable, or neglagence? LIke I said, I'm new to bikes. I don't know how much control they have over whether or not the innertube gets pinched.
 
Captain B said:
I wasn't exactly sure what to do. I figured Norton put them on there for a reason and this advice did come from the shop that pinched the tube in there to begin with. So, do you think the pinch was unavoidable, or neglagence? LIke I said, I'm new to bikes. I don't know how much control they have over whether or not the innertube gets pinched.

What kind of tires. I believe that all modern tires are designed as tubeless (typically stiffer beads) and are less likely to need rim locks, especially at normal pressures.

I know this from trials were we run as little as 4 lbs of pressure in the rear and for tires designed for tubes you have to use rim locks.
 
Very interesting Swooshdave. I ride mountain bike trials (I run about 25 psi with that). I guess I would be Ok to remove said rim lock then. I am still wondering if it was the person who installed it who goofed or if it was just fate. Either way, I won't cause a fuss with the shop (He is an old acquaintance after all). I am just glad I'm not in the care unit.

edit - and yes, If you remove the lock, what do you do with the hole? On my trials MTB I actually have holes drilled in the rim to lighten the rolling weight and that doesn't mess with things. :mrgreen:
 
seaguy said:
What do you put in the rim hole if you remove the rim lock?

I haven't run a rimlock in years, and have just left the hole empty.
The rim tape seems to span the gap ok.
 
I run a piece of duct tape over the hole and under the rim tape. Seems to keep the rim tape from bulging into the hole.
 
I was advised to run without the rimlock by my tyre man.
I chose to keep it. I do remember mine being rubber coated at the rim end.
I may chose to ditch it next time.
How ever, if the tube was nipped by the rimlock then that suggests to me incorrect fittment by your tyre man. There will be an order of when to tighten the rimlock up and how to ensure the tube is clear, but I dodn't know it.
 
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