Who else is running a voltage regulator?

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Can a fuse be wired in this way?
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Yes! As long as the fuse is between the battery and the SPG. If there is an additional ground to the battery the fuse can be bypassed and will not be effective.
 
Ron L said:
Can a fuse be wired in this way?
Click to expand...
Yes! As long as the fuse is between the battery and the SPG. If there is an additional ground to the battery the fuse can be bypassed and will not be effective.
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Thanks Ron, so basiclly if you have 2 or more grounds going to the battery terminal you would fuse it as normal, with the fuse on the feed side?
 
It's your choice actually. There should be a fuse on at least one side of the battery or the other and which ever side you choose, there should be nothing wired around that fuse to the battery.

Alternatively you can have more than one circuit terminating at the battery as long as each is fused. You need to somehow provide that "safety valve" in any circuit you run.
 
Ron L said:
It's your choice actually. There should be a fuse on at least one side of the battery or the other and which ever side you choose, there should be nothing wired around that fuse to the battery.

Alternatively you can have more than one circuit terminating at the battery as long as each is fused. You need to somehow provide that "safety valve" in any circuit you run.
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Thanks Ron, have put in separate fuses anyway just wondering about the fuse on the return side as I hadn't came across that before.
 
chopped850 said:
So does anyone know if the stator can be repaired?
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I guess you "could" hack away at the plastic and get to the wires and solder new ones on... but I think yours is shot because it looks like it was shorted and the coils overheated and possibly self desdroyed. Better look for a new(er) one rather than waste time with what you now have.

Jean
 
Jeandr said:
chopped850 said:
So does anyone know if the stator can be repaired?
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I guess you "could" hack away at the plastic and get to the wires and solder new ones on... but I think yours is shot because it looks like it was shorted and the coils overheated and possibly self desdroyed. Better look for a new(er) one rather than waste time with what you now have.

Jean
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I will get a new one but in the mean time I'm gonna attempt to repair this one as I have nothing to lose.
 
Looks really burned Choppy. Most of the ones I've seen start out as green epoxy.
 
Yeah I've noticed that myself but this one is probably stock and been through alot of burnt old oil also. But I'm gonna have a look inside it.
 
Cookie said:
On a Honda you can test the stator by continuity. Have you tried that?
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It's gonna test poorly with half the wires broken in there. I wonder if I could just fill that hole and part of the wire with solder and take care of the problem? :lol:
 
What will matter is good contiumuity and no shorts. Anyway you accomplish this can work. You will need to have enough support in that area so vibration does not break the wires, and of course the wires insulated so they don't short. the internet is a bit of a failure for actually seeing what is going on there for me.
I recall once breaking a primary chain and cutting off those wires (wheelies and hot rod starts take thier toll) and I fixed that somehow but don't remember what I did. Forty years also take thier toll on old memories.
 
Yeah half the wires coming out of the stator are broken. I have the electrical dip stuff to seal it when I'm done. But like I said before I have nothing to lose.
 
I recall my stator wires going there too. The cables become brittle from the oil and heat. Removing the stator too often stresses the brittle wires. It was difficult not to stress the brittle wires while removing the primary. I know I soldered, shrink fitted and siliconed mine. Oil gets right down the wires so silicons and other sealers don't stick. You have to rinse in solvent and soap n water and air dry with a compressor, then apply sealer. Just dripping solder and insulating there should work but it may not survive another removal process.

I haven't tried this one but there is no change in wiring and gives 16 amps I believe:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Mot...arms=72:543|65:12|39:1|240:1318#ht_500wt_1205

Here's another in case it comes to that:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Mot...arms=72:543|65:12|39:1|240:1318#ht_500wt_1205
 
There are 2 wires coming out of there on most Commando models. If you can dig back to where there is good insulation and separate them then you could test it in place using a 1 ohm resistor load as specified in the manual. (I use a much lesser rated power resistor, like 20 watts, and place it in a bucket of water.) Or just go for it and hook it up to see if the battery starts charging.

I don't know if reading the resistance of the stator with a multimeter will do much good since it is already pretty low on a good one. I don't think it would tell much about whether there are shorted melted together turns on the coils. The stator has 6 coils configured as 3 pairs of series-wired coils in parallel which is tough to troubleshoot when embedded in epoxy.
 
The fix detailed in Rupert Ratios book on BSA Unit singles is to remove the epoxy back to where the wires have insulation left, then solder new wires on to the exposed ends and reinsulate followed by epoxy on top to cover up the joints, suitable cable in the UK would be 2 core mains cable for utencils eg a vacumn cleaner as it has a flexible plastic molded on cover over the 2 cores. You do have to be able to get back to the insulated orginals, it looks too far gone to me.
 
I spent some time cleaning away the epoxy and getting to the wires. Cleaned everything with contact cleaner and dried with compressed air. Pushed the wiring through to meet up with the other wires. Soldered everything up. Everything has continuity all around. Sealed it first with some goop and then sprayed a coat of electrical dip sealant. I will find out tomorrow if it worked. If not then I will buy one.

Who else is running a voltage regulator?

Who else is running a voltage regulator?
 
"If anyone has a good stator that they removed to replace with an aftermarket one let me know."

I do, and it's yours if you want it (rotor too if you want it). I just looked at it, back side says "LUCAS" but I don't see a part number. It came off my 1973 Mk. I 850, and was working fine when I took it off (to replace with a Sparx 3-phase). - BrianK
 
It's the stocker from my bike, yes. Looks similar, yes. I don't know if identical. What year is yours? - if 73 or 74 this should be the same. Beyond that, no idea.

I wasn't trying to sell it. It's yours for whatever it costs to mail it, if you want it. If so, PM me your address and I'll box it up and ship it out to you.
 
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