Wheel Alignment

Anyone have a slick trick to align wheels? It seems to me a string line will be a PITA.

Slick

If the wheels (tires) are the same size, a wooden plank can be used quite effectively.
Just push the plank up against both wheels, and check that everything looks right.
(Commando is usefully so equipped, same size tires front and rear).

If the wheels/tires are different sizes, it gets a bit trickier.
A suitable thickness of timber can make up the usually slimmer front wheel,
but this takes can careful measuring.

Can recall in my youth fitting a new chain to something, and then crabbing off down the road.
Didn't adjust the chain adjusters on the back wheel evenly, did we. Or check the wheel alignment.
At least the chain stayed on until I figured out what was going on, and got back.
Don't rush things.....

The car folks these days have little laser thingies, that they clip to each wheel.
And the laser hits a target to show all is good.
Might be possible to use something similar on a bike.
But again allowance would need to be made for a slimmer front tire.

Tires are NOT same size, and a wooden plank is not guaranteed straight. I have been thinking of bending sheet metal on a brake which should produce a straight edge. Two 3 x 3 inch x 5 ft angles would then be pressed against rear tire on both sides. There is still the question of the sheet metal edge being "wavy" but this can be mitigated by rolling the edge 180 degrees in a tight bend. The next question is whether the raised lettering on the tires will throw off the alignment of the metal angles.

Maybe I am just over thinking the issue. Still would like input from others.

Slick

I use any straight wooden offrip that is laying around the shop. It,s a woodworking shop so there are plenty. A 1x3 or thereabouts works best. I use a short 6"x6" wooden block at each wheel to elevate the straightedge. The difference in tire widths is not a problem, just allow for it by measuring the space fore and aft at the front tire. If the front tire is 1" narrower than the rear then there should be a 1/2" space between the straightedge and the front tire when the front wheel is set parallel to the straightedge. For the 1" narrower fron tire example, if the parallel number is something other than 1/2", then the rear wheel needs to be adjusted one way or the other to achieve 1/2"
Just sight down the straightedge to make sure it is straight before using. The human eye looking down a line can see a very tiny amount of run out. I have a linerip saw here that makes everything straight in a couple of seconds, I suppose that is cheating.
A straight strip of flat steel bar, square tubing or angle iron would also work. Someone suggested using a long fluorescent light tube as straight edge. I have never checked one to see if they are truly straight, but it might just work if it doesn't end up broken

Thanks Worntorn .... You have an advantage having a line rip saw. The fluorescent tube is likely to be straight, but trying to measure off the diameter may be difficult.

Unless someone else has something to offer, I will go with the sheet metal concept, and report the results in a week or so.

Slick

You can go to home Depot and purchase a length of trim, either a casing or baseboard or some other trim piece that is about the right dimension.. The simple casing profiles in primed medite are pennies per foot. Pick through the selection until you get one that is dead straight. Most of the medite pieces are straight. I dislike medite in general, but if straight when purchased, it tends to stay straight for years and years as long as it is kept dry and stored flat.

Glen

I use a laser spirit level. If you put it against side of rear tyre you can project the beam onto the floor at the side of front tyre. Do it on each side of the rear tyre and you can see clearly if the wheels are lined up.

Ian

I make sure the chain is running straight on rear sprocket to gearbox sprocket...After this is done, turn adjusters same amounts to keep in allignment...Not really sure there is any way to get perfect enough to justify time and energy involved, or whether it is even neccesary..

Beach said:

I make sure the chain is running straight on rear sprocket to gearbox sprocket...After this is done, turn adjusters same amounts to keep in allignment...Not really sure there is any way to get perfect enough to justify time and energy involved, or whether it is even neccesary..

Click to expand...

I have done the first part with one of those clamp things that has a rod thru it, but I am sure that the alignment is not perfect.

The second part .... About time, energy, and whether it is even necessary, has been running thru my mind, with emphasis on the "necessary" . I am undecided on that particular issue .... As I said above, I tend to "over think" an issue. Thanks for the input and some assurance that I might leave it alone.

Slick

Not much time or energy is required, the whole procedure takes a few minutes.

Glen

You could use a secure tight string line. They're great for straightening between two points. You just need a couple of points of attachment. Just hold it off the rear wheel an inch or so, then account for whatever that # is and 1/2 the tire width difference as was mentioned.

I used to use a bit of string, attached via a loop to one end of the rear wheel spindle, then round the rear tyre, and forward to the front tyre, through the centre stand if necessary, about 6 inches off the floor. Then just past the front wheel. Holding light tension on the piece of string, it's a piece of cake to see when the string is in contact with both sides of the rear tyre, and eyeball the gaps at the front tyre. Then to check remove string and put the loop over the other end of the spindle, and run string around the other side of the rear tyre. Check as before.

It used to take about 5 minutes ...tops.

cheers
wakeup

I use 8 ft florescent tubes. can't think of any thing much straighter or as cheap. :mrgreen:

When using front wheel as a reference to align the rear wheel , how do you know the front wheel is perfectly straight? I still think there are too many variables here, to worry about perfect alligment ,when you could be out, enjoying the bike..
Just my thoughts.....

You could be out enjoying a bike that handles like a sack of spuds because the wheels are pointing in different directions?
Lining up the wheels is basic motorcycle maintenance. You are also correctly lining up the chain and sprockets at the same time.
The straightedge method is described in a couple of old workshop manuals I have here.

Glen

worntorn said:

You could be out enjoying a bike that handles like a sack of spuds because the wheels are pointing in different directions?
Lining up the wheels is basic motorcycle maintenance. You are also correctly lining up the chain and sprockets at the same time.
The straightedge method is described in a couple of old workshop manuals I have here.

Glen

Click to expand...

Agreed! So I am justified in overthinking this issue!

I am going to try your manufactured trim casing suggestion first. I have plenty of 8 ft fluorescent tubes ... I buy them by the case for my business ,,,, but measuring off the diameter is a guesstimate. The way I see it a string line is a PITA to tie off with the string just kissing the front side of the rear tire, then the tie point must be adjusted each time the wheel is adjusted .... a PITA squared.

Thanks for the input guys, it is all in the cranial repository for further processing.

Slick

worntorn said:

You could be out enjoying a bike that handles like a sack of spuds because the wheels are pointing in different directions?
Lining up the wheels is basic motorcycle maintenance. You are also correctly lining up the chain and sprockets at the same time.
The straightedge method is described in a couple of old workshop manuals I have here.

Glen

Click to expand...

If the wheels were that far out of alignment it should be easily seen...And yes I do align mine but just don't seek that precision that you are searching for...I feel that either method (yours or mine) would get equally close to satisfactory alignment...

I don't fuss over mine either, it's just a quickie check to get things heading in the same general direction. Alternate methods will do.
With a straightedge or string or laser line it is pretty easy to get the wheels +- 1/16" across the area being checked, which is most of the wheel diameter if you raise the straightedge up on blocks. Good enough for the road.
On the other hand, I have checked bikes for others who had never bothered to line things up, and, no surprise, found the rear wheel to be out by a lot, sometimes an inch or more as measure at the front wheel.

Glen