What have I got here (part 2)...

wjrich · Apr 21, 2013

have a couple of issues- of many more to come I'm sure- but here goes- Had the new (to me) Mk III out today for a brief ride. The bike idles fine in neutral, but at a stop with clutch engaged and in gear, stalls. I'm assuming clutch adjustment, but if anyone has a quick troube shoot solution, please chime in.

Second, as I'm looking at the bke, the front brake plumbing is obviously not correct. While the brake works fine, this is bugging me and I need to correct it. Problem is that I don't know what "correct" is.

Third, here's a pic of the bike from the back. PO had a 16" whell on it, and I had someone put an !8" on it. Does the offset- hard to see- normal for Mk IIIs?

Last, I've got all the manuals, but is there a guidebook or DVD series on restoring these bike? I feel that I have a lot of basic rookie questions that are prbably addressed in some source.

Thanks in advance.

Torontonian · Apr 21, 2013

I think you are missing a brake hose guide bracket or 2 ?. Also that fuzzy wheel offset looks ill. Had to put on my glasses to correct from this end.

Diablouph · Apr 21, 2013

The rear wheel on my 73 is off about that much. Your mud guard looks like it's off to the right some and that makes the left offset of the wheel seem larger than it really is.

Clutch adjustment and/or dragging is probably the reason for stalling. Plus, you will get smoother with experience on the bike. If I had a nickel of every time I killed the bike when I first had it, I could afford to fix it.

79x100 · Apr 21, 2013

The front brake line is a mess and should be rectified. That long unsupported rigid section is a stress fracture waiting to happen. Original was a flexible sction to the top bracket as you have, a rigid length between the fork yokes and then flexible to a bracket fitted behind the mudguard stays. The final rigid section then curved round the inside of the fork slider before exiting downwards. There is nothing wrong with the original system but it is a bit fiddly for maintenance. The only reasonable alternative is a single length of braided stainless hose through appropriate guides to stop chafing and trapping.

I'd suggest a look at the Andover Norton Mk3 spares list (if you don't have your own) to see how it was fitted.

Wheel looks fairly well centred between disc and sprocket so probably the mudguard needs a tweak. Loosen off the bracket under the tail lamp fairing and pull it round.

warpedscout · Apr 21, 2013

Brake looks like a short braided to a rubber to a hardline. Look at old britts front fork configuration schematic. Hardline look a tad too long but going off my 74 mk2. Sounds like aesthetics more than function so if works up to you if you want to change. Can get short hardline and braided or rubber, remember length depends on handlebar type. Also, purge air out by the way old britts describes using a syringe and input brake fluid Tim bottom, easier to purge air that way!

Also see choke is on right side, I have always seen on left but that is my limited knowledge.

Clutch probably just needs adjusting. How old are clutches? I know I did not change mine first time and was bucked off like I was in a rodeo due to sticking plates. May not be bd idea to take clutches and plates out for inspection and cleanup?!

L.A.B. · Apr 21, 2013

wjrich said:
have a couple of issues- of many more to come I'm sure- but here goes- Had the new (to me) Mk III out today for a brief ride. The bike idles fine in neutral, but at a stop with clutch engaged and in gear, stalls. I'm assuming clutch adjustment, but if anyone has a quick troube shoot solution, please chime in.

Could be clutch adjustment, or the plates may need cleaning, or both. A worn clutch centre can also cause drag.

Torontonian said:
Second, as I'm looking at the bke, the front brake plumbing is obviously not correct. While the brake works fine, this is bugging me and I need to correct it. Problem is that I don't know what "correct" is.

http://www.oldbritts.com/nor_mk3_75_25.html
http://www.oldbritts.com/1975_g25.html

wjrich said:
Third, here's a pic of the bike from the back. PO had a 16" whell on it, and I had someone put an !8" on it. Does the offset- hard to see- normal for Mk IIIs?

No.

wjrich said:
is there a guidebook or DVD series on restoring these bike?

There's a book: "Norton Twin Restoration" by Roy Bacon.

There are also UK NOC "Heavyweight engine" and "gearbox" rebuild DVDs by Mick Hemmings available in the USA from the INOA

http://www.inoanorton.com/Merchandise/index.html - Technical Help

Dances with Shrapnel · Apr 21, 2013

Since you are in the Chicago area, have a look at the Chicago Norton Owners Club

http://cnoc.org/

Great bunch of people and a real resource.

Also worth stopping by Expert Motorcycle Works in Hobart, Indiana.

http://expertmotorcycleworks.com/

They will get you straightened out with parts, service and infinite wisdom and guidance or any combination of the four. Bob Goodpaster runs the shop. They are good people.

Hobot · Apr 21, 2013

I'm glad your getting set straight on the issues s0 just poking my noise in to say thanx for a big grin and some head shaking looking at that bar cluster clutter. The refrigerator decoration flashed me back to my early Fla. days with cocoanut palms everywhere in laid back times.

warpedscout · Apr 21, 2013

wjrich said:
is there a guidebook or DVD series on restoring these bike?

I got the gearbox DVD for my birthday from dw and it took all qualms away about doing the tranny! I will be ordering the engine DVD soon, great addition to my norton special tools!

Got from INOA site.

kevbo82 · Apr 21, 2013

warpedscout said:
wjrich said:

is there a guidebook or DVD series on restoring these bike?

Click to expand...

I got the gearbox DVD for my birthday from dw and it took all qualms away about doing the tranny! I will be ordering the engine DVD soon, great addition to my norton special tools!

Got from INOA site.

i purchased the engine DVD, then found a norton specialist 30 mins from my house and let him rebuild the motor :? of course i then went on to rebuild the gear box myself without that DVD :roll: i guess i like to do things in the wrong order!? DVD was great though, i also came across a great article with photos online from Mick about rebuilding the roadholder forks and that was a great help too. Wish i would've got the gearbox DVD

wjrich · Apr 22, 2013

Excellent pictures LAB! That's what I was looking for. Pic #2 looks like the tube goes through the lower yoke (tree)?

L.A.B. · Apr 22, 2013

wjrich said:
Pic #2 looks like the tube goes through the lower yoke (tree)?

Yes, you should find two holes in the lower MkIII yoke, the outer hole takes the brake line fitting.

Note that the rigid pipe section (06-6227) between the upper yoke bracket (06-6241) and lower yoke is the standard item, as is the lower rigid pipe section, but the hoses are braided stainless and the spiral protector on the upper hose of my MkIII is non-standard.

wjrich · Jun 17, 2013

Thanks to all who responded, especially with the routing pictures. After some delay, I am finally getting to this project.

Big question is this- the bracket that holds the brake hose from the master cylinder and the pipe in the yokes and mounts under the console (picture below) was missing, and a replacement is on its way. What I can't figure out is exactly where and to what does this bracket get fastened to? I've looked at the parts manual, workshop manual, the Andover illustrated views, but can't see the detail on this. Anybody have a picture or a great expalnation on how to attach?

L.A.B. · Jun 17, 2013

wjrich said:
.

Big question is this- the bracket that holds the brake hose from the master cylinder and the pipe in the yokes and mounts under the console (picture below) was missing, and a replacement is on its way. What I can't figure out is exactly where and to what does this bracket get fastened to?

The two tabs of the bracket fit between the console and the mounting lugs of the upper yoke, so the bracket is basically clamped in place by the console.

wjrich · Jun 21, 2013

Thanks L.A.B.
What size is the nut on top of the fork tube? I've got nothing that fits in the toolbox, and hope it's I can get locally...
Thanks!

L.A.B. · Jun 22, 2013

wjrich said:
What size is the nut on top of the fork tube?

Should be 1-5/16"

wjrich · Jun 22, 2013

L.A.B.-

So I've got the front end stripped down and was looking at the baracket for the front disk brake plumbing (thanks for the tip on where it actually mounted) and realized that the bracket might fit 2 diiferent ways. Would you know which would be the correct way?

Thanks again for the help and pictures on this..

L.A.B. · Jun 22, 2013

This is the correct way.

wjrich said:

wjrich · Jun 22, 2013

Thanks again!

wjrich · Jun 23, 2013

So I spent the day taking a wire brush to the yokes, and sprayed them with Rustoleum bright aluminum. Liked the look, and thought everything was ok until the paint started peeling off. Wire brushed again, cleaned w mineral spirits, and used Rustoleum primer and will let them sit for a bit. Really kind of disappointed as I thought I could get these cleaned up and start reassembly of the front end. If the rimer holds, then I'll re-do with the aluminum spray. In the meantime, transferred the speedo and tach to their new cups, and begin work on replacing the dashboard.
Realized the dash I ordered is just a bit different than the original, but I can make do with it. Tried removing the warning lights and trashed 2, so am in the market to replace them.
Old Britt's sells the lenses with no bulbs (pn 6-1408-11), so I'm asking if anyone knows where to get lenses and bulbs?

What have I got here (part 2)...

wjrich

Torontonian

Diablouph

79x100

warpedscout

L.A.B.

Moderator

Dances with Shrapnel

Hobot

warpedscout

kevbo82

wjrich

L.A.B.

Moderator

wjrich

L.A.B.

Moderator

wjrich

L.A.B.

Moderator

wjrich

L.A.B.

Moderator

wjrich

wjrich

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