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Ideas for adding oil to a Welch plug swingarm ? Been 10 years.
Welch plugs lube
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johnm
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I drlled an extra hole in the Welch plug and tapped it for a small bolt. Tighten gently with a fibre washer and a bit of RTV.
Or you do the best fix which is to drill and tap a hole in the cross tube behind where the horn sits. Then fit a small bolt with a hole drilled through the centre to attach a thin plastic pipe and run it up near the battery. Fill up the pipe every few years. Thinking about it something like a needle jet would work better than a bolt with a hole through the centre. It's just the right size and shape.
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Thanks , I'll consider the first option as it's easier. At age 64 I may not be riding in 10 or so more years.
johnm
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I'm 68. I hope I am.
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I drilled the centre bolt and brazed a 3/16 piece of copper tube to it, then fitted a 3/16 ID neoprene hose to that and up to a 30mll bottle. I removed the flip over cap from the bottle top, drilled it 3/16 and fitted another piece of copper tube, to which I fitted the hose. Only have to add 90 weight oil every six months or more.
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"Or you do the best fix which is to drill and tap a hole in the cross tube behind where the horn sits."
Agree! It works really well!!
" At age 64 I may not be riding in 10 or so more years."
I have a friend, Art, who, at 78, rode from central Mexico to eastern Canada and back by himself on his '73 Commando to attend a Norton rally. He is in his 80's now and still rides a couple hundred miles per week on day rides. He does longer rides with his wife as pillion all over Mexico/US and on trips in Europe - though typically using one of his modern bikes or renting one when overseas. At a recent get together, someone complained that he was almost 70 and getting too old to ride, Art said, "You're just a beginning rider; you'll feel differently as you get some experience!"
Agree! It works really well!!
" At age 64 I may not be riding in 10 or so more years."
I have a friend, Art, who, at 78, rode from central Mexico to eastern Canada and back by himself on his '73 Commando to attend a Norton rally. He is in his 80's now and still rides a couple hundred miles per week on day rides. He does longer rides with his wife as pillion all over Mexico/US and on trips in Europe - though typically using one of his modern bikes or renting one when overseas. At a recent get together, someone complained that he was almost 70 and getting too old to ride, Art said, "You're just a beginning rider; you'll feel differently as you get some experience!"
I wonder if JD Corn head grease would be best in here.
It would require a grease fitting or as a minimum pre-packing.
Cornhead grease is halfway between oil and general purpose grease in consistentcy. It stands up to extreme pressure in Crawler tractor track roller bushings, as well as in JD Harvester corn heads.
Glen
It would require a grease fitting or as a minimum pre-packing.
Cornhead grease is halfway between oil and general purpose grease in consistentcy. It stands up to extreme pressure in Crawler tractor track roller bushings, as well as in JD Harvester corn heads.
Glen
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The lubricant needs to be sufficiently liquid so it will be absorbed by the sintered bronze...
A drop of oil placed on a dry bush is completely absorbed in a few minutes:
...and once saturated are self-lubricating and remain so for some time, therefore, don't have to be constantly bathed in lubricant of any type.
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Dave,
I was wondering if you have ever had the swing-arm off to replace the orings?Mine leaks out for about a week but have never had it apart in 30 years. I installed the clamps a while back and everything still operates nicely.Going to take it apart next winter to see if new orings keep the 140W off the floor
Thanks,
Mike
I fill it up using the locating bolt
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Anyone intent on retaining oil in the pivot (although unnecessary as the purpose of relubricating is to recharge the porous sintered bushes) should consider replacing the O-rings and dust covers...
...with the 'sealed assembly' pivot seals (although does involve removing the bushes to fit them)...
Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts
Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk
...with the 'sealed assembly' pivot seals (although does involve removing the bushes to fit them)...
Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts
Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk
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One thing perhaps overlooked is there's no seal between the swinging arm pivot tubes and the dust covers.
As the bushes are porous then there's nothing preventing oil passing through the bush and then from what is basically an unsealed metal-to-metal joint after the assembly has been refilled.
The 06.5227 seals at least have a plastic coating that probably does help seal the joint.
Edit: +
As the bushes are porous then there's nothing preventing oil passing through the bush and then from what is basically an unsealed metal-to-metal joint after the assembly has been refilled.
The 06.5227 seals at least have a plastic coating that probably does help seal the joint.
Edit: +
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Lineslinger
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How are you liking those?
When they came out, I thought it was a very cool idea and bought a pair for my Mk2 as I knew I would be doing a complete tear down.
A year or so later, when I got to the actuality, I realized my mk2 had the late swingarm with the mk3 length bushes. And by then they had all sold out. So, I had to sell them on.
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