Webby's Triton build

Geez Webby that oval section swingarm is really nice. The Dresda box tube gives you that fatter tyre option but has rather a modern look to it. The JW keeps in with the era look, pretty important I believe. Cripes I want one. Do you know if you have to remove the exhaust hangers to clear it, or is that another bonus of the oval section and get to retain them?
Foxy
 
Hi Foxy,
I'm not sure but I assume that you could leave the exhaust hangars in place, if you wanted to check fire off a mail to JW, I spoke to them last year when I was researching my frame and they were really helpful.

Webby
 
I can't believe I haven't posted anything on this thread since March!

Moving house to Belgium, work, lack of play money and life in general has got in the way of project Triton till last week.

The frame was dusted off and moved downstairs to the basement, or as I call it the "Man cave" (cave is cellar or basement in French) and placed back on the workmate. Now work can recommence!

I found a good shop here in Brussels that supplies aluminium plate, bar stock and tube (http://www.hobby-alu.be) in whatever quantity you need, so I bought some 6082 bar stock and 1/4" thick plate.

I decided to remake the forward motor mounts in a smaller, simpler design similar to Dresdas.

Webby's Triton build



I also machined up all the spacers for the forward mount as I'd bought as lathe a couple of months ago.

Webby's Triton build



Webby
 
With the forward mounts sorted (for the second time!) it was time to start on the outer mounts.

I started by making some templates from pexi, this makes it easy to find and mark the holes.

Webby's Triton build


Holes drilled and the plate offered up to the bike to check the position.

Webby's Triton build



The (almost) finished plate, I still need to file down the lower edge and determine the position of the exhaust (muffler) mounting, this will be a "bobbin" or "cotton reel" type rubber mount from a Norton Commando. I also need to pilot drill the plate for the rear sets again once I've decided upon the position.

Webby's Triton build


Webby
 
With the right outer plate in position it's time to start on the left side.

I started by drilling the hole for the swingarm pivot, this was a bit of a PITA as I didn't have a drill bit big enough, so it was finished off with a file, thankfully it tuned out round!

Webby's Triton build



Then it was just a matter of cutting the plate........by hand!
Halfway there, time for a coffee break!

Webby's Triton build



What felt like hours later, the plate was finally cut and offered up to the bike to check for the mounting hole centers. (The hole centers are marked on the other side of the plate so I could check them using a small mirror on the other side of the primary.

Webby's Triton build



Holes drilled and the plates offered up to the bike again before cutting out the area at the back of the primary case.

Webby's Triton build



Webby
 
Here's one thing I don't quite understand, as many of you know these plates are copies of the Dresda ones, from the photos on the website and several books I've figured out the size, the engine placement etc.

So why are the exhaust mounts are different levels ? :?:

Webby's Triton build


I've double checked all the photos I've saved from the web, and those kindly sent to me by GPZ and they are correct. I can only guess it's to clear a chain guard, but then why not make the other side lower to match?
As with many things on this project I'm sure things will become clear as I get further into the build.

Webby
 
It works well Will, especially if you have lots of holes to drill or holes that you cannot get to the back of.
We use it a lot in aviation for repairs doublers etc.

Webby
 
Should work a treat for areas that I can't get a punch through to mark. Easy to work with too.
 
Plexi is indeed a great idea, more costly than cardboard, but if it could save even one plate done wrong, it is well worth it. Aluminium plate can be cut with ease using a saber saw (scie sauteuse en français) with metal cutting blades. A bit of oil will ease cutting an make the blades last longer.

Jean
 
Thankfully I can get small quaities of Plexi from work, so it costs nothing :)
It's good you translated Sabre saw for me Jean, I'd never heard of one! On this side of the pond we call it a jigsaw. I keep meaning you buy a bench top jigsaw and a pillar drill, but as I have access to a drill 24/7 10 minutes up the road at work I probably don't really need one but the jigsaw would be useful, up till now I've been using a hand held one which is right on the limit cutting 1/4" (6mm) plate. Although I've never tried using a drop of oil on the blade, another top tip Jean, Thanks :)

Webby
 
Thanks GPZ,
I look forward to seeing your finished bike, I'm sure it will be a stunner!
As for me, I aim to have this thing finished by September 2014, it's my 40th birthday present to me :mrgreen: Of course it may get finished sooner, the risk with that is then I have to go out and buy another project for my birthday!
Out of interest have you trail fitted your outer engine plates?
After further research last night I think I figured out why the end of the left plate is lower than the right. It's to clear the rear brake rod.
As to why the right is not lowered to match the left, it looks like it's to keep enough edge distance from the swingarm pivot hole.
As I mentioned before, these things make you think

All the best

Webby
 
I have only mounted the engine in the frame, and mounted the outer plates to the engine; then, put the whole thing in a dark corner of the garage.
 
grandpaul said:
I have only mounted the engine in the frame, and mounted the outer plates to the engine; then, put the whole thing in a dark corner of the garage.
Click to expand...

I know the feeling !
You haven't noticed the difference in the height of the muffler hangars ? There must be something like 1/2" - 3/4" difference. They are only at the same height when they cross the frame tube.

Thanks

Webby
 
Muffler hangars won't matter to me as I'm going with either upswept scrambler pipes (on the left side), or 2-into-1 header, downswept, on the right side.
 
In that case I'd suggest that you use the outer plates, (they seem to add quite a bit of rigidity to the motor mounts) but cut off the rear sections. You could bolt them to the frame gussets using the existing holes, you'll just need to fab up a couple of spacers about 5/8" thick.

All the best

Webby
 
I was wondering why the Dresda plates I bought weren't drilled for the swingarm spindle. I assumed that would be one of the reasons for having them in the first place?
 
Hi GPZ,
When you ordered your plates Dave should have asked what swingarm and spindle you are using. When I ordered my swingarm he asked what rear hub I was using (for the wheel spindle diameter) and what plates I was using. This is because the swingarm can be ordered with two different spindle lengths, one for standard plates (like yours or Converta plates) and the longer one for plates like mine.
I hope this makes sense :)

All the best

Webby
 
I forgot to mention GPZ,
The plates would work very well (and look cool) with your swing arm spindle set up, although you would need to lengthen the spindle by about 1 1/4". It should be easy enough to drill the holes in the plates.

Webby
 

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