VIN against engine

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Engine number 203006 with frame number 203607.
The sellers says he his the only owner and he have never changeD the engine or valve.
Is it possible.
In anycase, are they the the Combat numbers?
Ciao.
Piero
 
pierodn said:
Engine number 203006 with frame number 203607.
The sellers says he his the only owner and he have never changeD the engine or valve.
Is it possible.

I think only those who have access to the surviving factory records for that period will be able to answer that question with any degree of accuracy (either the VMCC or UK NOC, I'm not sure if Andover Norton has records for that period?)


pierodn said:
In anycase, are they the the Combat numbers?

Both numbers are within the series that Combats were manufactured, but that does not necessarily make it a Combat, as standard models were also produced within the same number series as Combats.

As it is a 'one owner' bike, if it is still in reasonably original condition then the specification should identify whether it is likely to be a Combat model or not.
 
Dear Les,
This is the bike!
It is completely original/standard, how everybody can see!!!!!
Ciao.
Piero

VIN against engine


VIN against engine


Sorry.
 
Right! Original AND standard. Right!

pierodn said:
Dear Les,
This is the bike!
It is completely original/standard, how everybody can see!!!!!
Ciao.
Piero

VIN against engine


VIN against engine


Sorry.
 
That's certainly no standard Combat, or standard Commando :lol:

Is he absolutely sure he didn't change the engine 30 years ago, and then forgot? :D
 
I know, original is only the frame, the engine/gearbox, oil tank, battery tray, tacho.
It is dirty and rusty.
Yet, in her condition, is stopped by 25 years, I don't know why, but fascinates me so much.
The seller is a nice rider who used in racing.
Tells me that was very fast.
I would to buy it.
It could be a good project to restored as original was.
 
pierodn said:
It could be a good project to restored as original was.

Restored - as a road bike, or as a race bike ??

It looks great as, now, a race bike.
If you restore it as a road bike, all its history has been thrown away.

P.S. You could race it ?? !! ??
Or do "demo" race laps on it, anyway....
 
Hi Rohan,
I don't have a lot of news now.
The seller said me he fought against Ducati 750, Suzuki and Kawa, and was fast like others.
He has the race results and race pictures, some magazie arthicles and mybe he can try to find old videos!
I would never courage to ride it.
I would need before an anti tetanus prophylaxis!!!!
I would to buy it, the price is not very expensive, but i just have many Commando.
Ciao.
Piero
 
I'd wash it, tune it up and ride it as is. I'd never restore that thing. Its too cool being a little rough around the edges.
 
Soulkitchen said:
I'd wash it, tune it up and ride it as is. I'd never restore that thing. Its too cool being a little rough around the edges.

+1 with Soulkitchen ... buy it,wash it,tune it up and ride it as is :D
 
Well,
will break the piggy bank and see if I get to asking price: according to you how much should I pay for this "jewel" unobtainable!!!!!! :mrgreen:
 
pierodn said:
... how much should I pay for this "jewel" unobtainable!!!!!! :mrgreen:

That depends on what it's worth to you and also what it's worth to the other guy.

Dave
 
Since the fairing has the headlight aperture, it could easily be built as a road-ready race replica. I would love it.

If all the core parts are in good condition, and the seller offers it with title. you will probably need to be prepared to pay near the equivalent of $5,000 USD.
 
I think 5000 $ is too much.
I think a reasonable price could be not more than 3250 $.
Ciao
Piero
 
$3250 sounds better, but cheap as possible is best.

It's been sitting for some time, was raced (beaten), and is mostly whole.

Personally I would go $2000 at the most.

Cost of parts to re freshen it, plus labor (even if it's yours) will add up to a few Thousand $$$$.

Tires, gaskets, seals, bearings, paints, replacement parts, missing parts, etc..... Adds up fast.

As a general rule, if you start with a whole bike, you will need about $2000 - $3000 just in parts and materials to renew it.

Yes, you could just do a few things, but there are so many little things that can fail (layshaft bearing, soft camshaft, main bearings, most things a PO touched)

I always do a full tear down. Most of the time you have it half apart to fix something, spend a little more time now while it's not damaged.

Plus it's amazing the things that have been found inside a supposed "good" bike.
 
bwolfie said:
$3250 sounds better, but cheap as possible is best.

It's been sitting for some time, was raced (beaten), and is mostly whole.

Personally I would go $2000 at the most.

Cost of parts to re freshen it, plus labor (even if it's yours) will add up to a few Thousand $$$$.

Tires, gaskets, seals, bearings, paints, replacement parts, missing parts, etc..... Adds up fast.

As a general rule, if you start with a whole bike, you will need about $2000 - $3000 just in parts and materials to renew it.

Yes, you could just do a few things, but there are so many little things that can fail (layshaft bearing, soft camshaft, main bearings, most things a PO touched)

I always do a full tear down. Most of the time you have it half apart to fix something, spend a little more time now while it's not damaged.

Plus it's amazing the things that have been found inside a supposed "good" bike.

Hi Brent,
I am completely agree with you.
Ciao.
Piero
 
" That's certainly no standard Combat, or standard Commando "

NO , Its the Wrong Colour ! :D

Knactually , something like that , its worth figureing out a bit of its then history .
( Does he have pictures , Race entry / result cards . List of events entered & riders )
before you alter it . But RED . Feel free to paint it B R G , Black , pale blue or something
sensable . It not a Ferrari , Italian , or a Fire Engine . So Red is Not Appropriate .
Particularly the FRAME . I detest Red Frames . See to it immediately , if you would .

Seems eeven the factory slipped up occasionally , though . Nickle or Zinc would be classier . :P

VIN against engine
 
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