Hurt Engine?

Well, it took some time for the results from Blackstone, and I must say I'm confused. I should be happy but I'm skeptical of these results. The oil below was drained from the filter, (after cutting). The drained oil looked the same. I hooked up a gauge and started it, VERY low reading. (did not rev it). Going to pull the timing cover and check the seal to the pump. As it's was wet sumping fairly quickly, I might just replace the pump also. Question is, after this, ride it, or tear it down?
 

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Lookfar said:
Well, it took some time for the results from Blackstone, and I must say I'm confused. I should be happy but I'm skeptical of these results. The oil below was drained from the filter, (after cutting). The drained oil looked the same. I hooked up a gauge and started it, VERY low reading. (did not rev it). Going to pull the timing cover and check the seal to the pump. As it's was wet sumping fairly quickly, I might just replace the pump also. Question is, after this, ride it, or tear it down?
Click to expand...
I don't know if this has any bearing (excuse the pun) on your dilemma, but apparently Castrol do not recommend their 20/50 for roller bearing engines...

olympus

Thread 'Castrol Classic 20w-50 Engine oil'

Sorry yet another boring oil thread....

Castrol Classic Oils Shop — Buy Castrol Classic XL20w-50 mineral engine oil

Castrol Classic XL20w50 - buy online from the Castrol Classic shop - free delivery over £50. Mineral engine oil for classic cars and motorbikes.
classicoilsshop.co.uk classicoilsshop.co.uk
Interesting read found on the Castrol website, regarding the use of this oil in our machines.
Click the "More info tab" and read down.
 
You need to know what the bearing top layer is, Vandervell trimettalic used soft lead/Indium over a leaded bronze substrate. If you can see bronze then these bearings are toast. Unless you are racing I would use bimetallic aluminium tin, harder material but lower fatigue strength but this is not a problem on road use.
 
cliffa said:
I don't know if this has any bearing (excuse the pun) on your dilemma, but apparently Castrol do not recommend their 20/50 for roller bearing engines...

olympus

Thread 'Castrol Classic 20w-50 Engine oil'

Sorry yet another boring oil thread....

Castrol Classic Oils Shop — Buy Castrol Classic XL20w-50 mineral engine oil

Castrol Classic XL20w50 - buy online from the Castrol Classic shop - free delivery over £50. Mineral engine oil for classic cars and motorbikes.
classicoilsshop.co.uk classicoilsshop.co.uk
Interesting read found on the Castrol website, regarding the use of this oil in our machines.
Click the "More info tab" and read down.
Click to expand...
As it was an OEM oil for the bike, and many still use it within the temp and mileage I don't think it was an oil issue. the link you sent refers to the Classic XL. I and others have been using the Castrol GTX 20-50 .
 
It seems the time / cost equation is needed. If you think something is wrong and not right then if you have the time then investigate as this could save money. Delaying could though not catastrophic could be more expensive to remedy.
 
Lookfar said:
Well, it took some time for the results from Blackstone, and I must say I'm confused. I should be happy but I'm skeptical of these results. The oil below was drained from the filter, (after cutting). The drained oil looked the same. I hooked up a gauge and started it, VERY low reading. (did not rev it). Going to pull the timing cover and check the seal to the pump. As it's was wet sumping fairly quickly, I might just replace the pump also. Question is, after this, ride it, or tear it down?
Click to expand...
Could you please post a screenshot instead of a pdf?
 
Interesting oil analysis, thanks for sharing.

The figures are confusing ?

" Robert " suggests having used leaded fuel could explain the high lead readings yet the data shows no fuel in the oil.

The oil looks heavily aerated.
 
Grandad said:
Interesting oil analysis, thanks for sharing.

The figures are confusing ?

" Robert " suggests having used leaded fuel could explain the high lead readings yet the data shows no fuel in the oil.

The oil looks heavily aerated.
Click to expand...
I took that to mean if the bike has been run at any point in its life with leaded fuels, then that may explain why some lead is still contaminating the insides of the engine, giving a leeching effect into oil.
 
Tornado said:
I took that to mean if the bike has been run at any point in its life with leaded fuels, then that may explain why some lead is still contaminating the insides of the engine, giving a leeching effect into oil.
Click to expand...
As this bike was seeing infrequent use, and still equipped with a old fiberglass tank, I was using a leaded "race" fuel bought in 5 gallon cans. I continued to use up all of this remaining fuel. Once that was gone I had switched to 91 unleaded pump gas, (fine as long as you don't let it sit). May explain the high lead, I hope.
 
Personally, I would not tear the engine down based on one (fairly inconclusive) oil test.

It would be different if I was building a round-the-world bike or an IOM racer or embarking on a full resto, but if the bike is up and running well and being used for occasional fun weekend rides, I’d just keep using it and keep an eye on things.

My own belief is that modern oil test procedures are intended for modern engines and the tolerances within which they operate.

An old design like a Norton would probably flag up markers from new !

All only IMHO.
 
Last edited:
Fast Eddie said:
Persoannly, I would not tear the engine down based on one (fairly inconclusive) oil test.

It would be different if I was building a round-the-world bike or an IOM racer or embarking on a full resto, but if the bike is up and running well and being used for occasional fun weekend rides, I’d just keep using it and keep an eye on things.

My own belief is that modern oil test procedures are intended for modern engines and the tolerances within they operate.

An old design like a Norton would probably flag up markers from new !

All only IMHO.
Click to expand...
As my old mentor would say, " It'll tell you when it's had enough"
 


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