Very Bright 5-3/4" LED headlight

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jseng1 said:
I just ran the charging system through the tests recommended this forums "technical information" below.

Does the mosfet have a capacitor for use without a battery?
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No, it's for use with a battery. If I had known you didn't want to change anything, I would have walked away.

Try one of the other battery less solutions, and see how it goes.
 
jseng1 said:
No battery, magneto ignition - very basic and simple. So the standard 180 watt early Commando charging system should be plenty - right? But I've noticed my light flicker from bright to dim while riding (mostly dim now) and I suspect my podtronics is failing or failed or working at reduced output. I've swapped out the stator and rotor with no improvement. I'm no elecrical expert. Whats the basic output test with a standard multi meter?

Can anyone recommend a more reliable unit than the podtronics? Something thats just as simple (one component and small or smaller)?

Cliffa - Some sealed beam LEDs have a really good dispersal pattern and can make a flat wide low beam that spreads out to the sides better than I've seen before - and the beam stays low so it doesn't blind oncomming traffic. Then the high beam blasts a concentrated down the center of the road when you need it (along with the wide low beam).
Click to expand...

bench testing a podtronics (2019)

is there any way to do this? single phase
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
A Podtronics relies on a battery to buffer the voltage regulation of the SCR's. Because your current draw is so low and because you have no battery, your SCR's are firing constantly, chopping the power flow from the alternator. That likely is what causing your flickering.
 
Derek Wilson said:
A Podtronics relies on a battery to buffer the voltage regulation of the SCR's. Because your current draw is so low and because you have no battery, your SCR's are firing constantly, chopping the power flow from the alternator. That likely is what causing your flickering.
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But the newer pod that comes with an internal capasiton is supposed to work without a batt. Is this my only option (stand alone single item)? I'd say my early version pod is either incompatible without a batt or defective.
 
jseng1 said:
But the newer pod that comes with an internal capasiton is supposed to work without a batt. Is this my only option (stand alone one item)?
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Fitting a capacitor could solve it, as it would power the bulb for the short duration after while the SCR cycles. The old 2MC capacitor is what I would start with.

Your other option is rectifier and a zener diode. They produce very clean power, as the zener is only trimming the top off of the rectified voltage peaks, not switching off the power completely.

Or fit a battery, which I am guessing is not an option.
 
I have no problem buying a new pod with the capasitor if they actually work without a batt. I hate batteries and want to avoid that option.
 
Do not run a standard Pod without a battery.

granttiller.com

Grant Tiller | Exposing the Market Leading Regulator/Rectifier

article written by Jean Des Rosiers I am rebuilding my café racer and adding an Alton electric starter, since space is at a premium, I opted for a Ballistic lithium battery.These batteries require a slightly higher voltage than standard or AGM lead-acid batteries.I read that some got on quite...
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In addition to the Pod listed above, you can run a Boyer powerbox.

www.thebonnevilleshop.com

Triumph Norton BSA Boyer Power BOX Regulator Rectifier Battery Eliminator PN# TBS-3572A P/BOX00108

The cream of the crop for solid state regulators to suit vintage British motorcycles! We've had countless inquiries regarding running Triumph, Norton and
www.thebonnevilleshop.com www.thebonnevilleshop.com
 
jseng1 said:
No battery, magneto ignition - very basic and simple. So the standard 180 watt early Commando charging system should be plenty - right? But I've noticed my light flicker from bright to dim while riding (mostly dim now) and I suspect my podtronics is failing or failed or working at reduced output. I've swapped out the stator and rotor with no improvement. I'm no elecrical expert. Whats the basic output test with a standard multi meter?

Can anyone recommend a more reliable unit than the podtronics? Something thats just as simple (one component and small or smaller)?

Cliffa - Some sealed beam LEDs have a really good dispersal pattern and can make a flat wide low beam that spreads out to the sides better than I've seen before - and the beam stays low so it doesn't blind oncomming traffic. Then the high beam blasts a concentrated down the center of the road when you need it (along with the wide low beam).
Click to expand...
We use the Tri Spark MOSFET 20 Amp Voltage Rectifier Regulator on everything vintage especially Norton or triumph as long as your load is under 20A. We also use some from Ricks as well.
https://www.trispark.com.au/mosfet-20-amp-voltage-rectifier-regulator
 
LED bulbs while they don't "look" vintage they certainly make it easier to ride in the evening safely. This is a simple H4 conversion with LED added. Yes the light is on the bike on the right when looking toward the road. At idle 13.2v with 2 wire stator

IMG_3993.JPG

image0.jpeg
 
I am unable to identify which pod unit I have. Its been running on the bike for 10 years - but the lights went dimer about 5 years ago) - I'm not sure if it has the capasitor or not. The Boyer powerbox seems like a good alternative because it can definitely be used without a batt (3xs the price). The Shindengen SH775 is described in "exposing the market leading rectifier/regulator" (which slams the pod). The article praises the Shindengen SH775 but doesn't mention if it can run without a batt (I'd like to know).
 
City Garage said:
LED bulbs while they don't "look" vintage they certainly make it easier to ride in the evening safely.
Click to expand...
I think you would have to look very closely to see that the bulb isn't a normal H4 on my bike. Forget about the tri-bar headlamp that Matt fitted - it's the bulb I'm talking about. If anything the "clear" lense would make the different bulb more evident.
Cheers
Very Bright 5-3/4" LED headlight
 
jseng1 said:
I am unable to identify which pod unit I have. Its been running on the bike for 10 years - but the lights went dimer about 5 years ago) - I'm not sure if it has the capasitor or not. The Boyer powerbox seems like a good alternative because it can definitely be used without a batt (3xs the price). The Shindengen SH775 is described in "exposing the market leading rectifier/regulator" (which slams the pod). The article praises the Shindengen SH775 but doesn't mention if it can run without a batt (I'd like to know).
Click to expand...
No. Since it senses voltage it would shut off and on accordingly to need.
 
robs ss said:
I think you would have to look very closely to see that the bulb isn't a normal H4 on my bike. Forget about the tri-bar headlamp that Matt fitted - it's the bulb I'm talking about. If anything the "clear" lense would make the different bulb more evident.
Cheers
View attachment 81518
Click to expand...
Yes that’s what the H4 conversion includes a clear lens and we install LED bulb but yes even a regular H4 bulb with a clear lens is greatly improved.
 
jseng1 said:
After going through four miserable LED headlights I finally found one I'm happy with. Its super bright and totally blows away a halogen. It fits into the standard old style classic Bates headlamp shell although I did have to cut off the 3 prong plug and splice the wires. Its very reasonably priced at $35. Available from amazon (can't find it on ebay). Be carefull to match what you buy with the photo below because there are several available with this name and they look very different.

Search for this title in amazon:

COWONE Cree 5-3/4 5.75" LED Headlight​


Very Bright 5-3/4" LED headlight
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I'm only on LED trial #3, an item from the Bonneville Shop that looks identical to the Goff Daylighter1.
All so far have been extremely bright, but not great for actual night riding due to poor focus, although the last one was marginally better than the others.
So I'm going back to a 55/60 watt H4 halogen for now.
It is very good for night riding.
Will try one of the Daylighter 2 LEDS and see how it compares to the H4.
Brightness without good focus just doesn't work at night at speed.

Glen
 
Try the Boyer PowerBox. It might be better than the PODtronics reg/rect battery eliminator with regard to dealing with unexpected electrical shorts.

My guess is that without a battery, you will still see the headlamp go dim at low RPM. That is based on my experience, not theory.

I remember when I was a young buck riding the P11 at night and having to rev the motor at stop signs so there was some light showing when I was running a magneto and battery eliminator. I would not have to do that now, because I use a battery and EI. The LED headlight never dims regardless of RPM.

Here's one for the paranoid: I use a cheap Negative ground LED headlight on a Positive ground Norton chassis. For those that barely get out of bed everyday due to one fear or another, the motorcycle LED headlights are electrically isolated from the headlight shell. I could still have a harness short due to a wire rubbing somewhere on the frame, but so could anyone regardless of the ground being positive or negative. It works like all the other stuff I've done that I've been told won't work on the internet.
 
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