vernier isolastic orientation

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nomadwarmachine

nomadwarmachine

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Aug 9, 2005
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Installing Grandpaul's SS isos on my Mk2 today and wanted to confirm with the collective mind that I'm doing it right.

The inner shaft with the rubbers on the front iso had two ends. One has an unthreaded flange that accepts a collar with a single set screw. The other has a longer, fully-threaded end, that apparently mates to a collar with multiple holes but no set screw.

I have installed the shaft into the front cradle so that the shorter flanged end is on the right and the fully threaded ebd is on the left. Is this correct? Do I screw in the righthand collar with the set screw until tight, then adjust with the left? If so, what keeps the left collar from moving, since there is no set screw?
 
Does it matter if I installed with the adjustable collar (and long threaded section) on the left, rather than the right?
 
I think you have assembled things in the recommended orientation, although I have in the past inadvertently assembled them the other way and it was just as easy to access for adjustment. What keeps the adjusting collar from moving is the clamping force of the long 1/2 dia. mounting stud which deflects the frame a little bit to grip the isolastic ends when torqued up.
 
I found it much easier access to adjust when adjuster mounted on RH side.
On rear best on LH side.
I hate the round bottom holes in my adjuster and the loose fitting probe to turn it.
I've ground a allen wrench to fit snugger and not wallow out the holes as soon.
 
Well, it appears to make no difference which side gets the adjuster, because I just took the bike for a ride and the incessant vibration I endured for more than a year is completely GONE. The bike is transformed. Thanks to all for your help. Rear iso is next!
 
Hobot, I think the diagonal pattern you describe is the recommended one simply for ease of adjustment. I inadvertently built one of my bikes the other way round and frankly there wasn't much difference.
 
Dave I put it on the other way around my first time too, I could not access the rear at all on the RH and front one more booger to me when on LH. I bit bullet and took Peel down to flip em. So my respects you are a better more persistent mechanic than I'll ever be.
 
Hobot, I am only a legend in my own lunchtime. I think I got lucky because the bike was a cafe-racer with a number of non standard appointments that may have made the job easier than otherwise, With the many detailed differences in side panels, oil tanks, air filters etc, some models may have better access than others and therefore be less critical to orientation.
 
Yes all that cafe trimming down makes a difference in access. So better to install adjusters as per instructions the 1st to see if ya like it like that. I'm thinking to modify the adjusters &/or make a tool that grabs them in two spots like a shock or exhasut nuts use.
 
Glad to hear that the diFference in orientation comes down to ease of adjustment. My bike is a compoletely different machine with the new rubber -- no need to stop periodically to pick up my teeth that have rattled out, and no more numb hands. Progress!

I actually had no trouble adjusting the left-hand side with an Allen wrench. Right side is fully screwed-in and locked with the set screw. Getting the cradle back in the frame involved much wrangling and swearing, but I could not be happier with the result.

I left the rubber boots off the setup per the advice of numerous people, but had a question. Doesn't dirt and grime work its way in between the PTFE washers and the collars/caps over time. I would prefer not to pull the cradle again to install the boots, but want to be sure I don't wreck the new setup.
 
I left the rubber boots off the setup per the advice of numerous people, but had a question. Doesn't dirt and grime work its way in between the PTFE washers and the collars/caps over time. I would prefer not to pull the cradle again to install the boots, but want to be sure I don't wreck the new setup.
Click to expand...

Who advised that? Yes, the gaiters are supposed to be there for a reason.
 
i've flown both ways with and w/o the covers, grit gets in more w/o but water hangs around more with em. Now you bring it up I'll burn a tiny drain hole in the ones I just put on a '72 and later my special '11. I've going with spray dry teflon lube this time as found in past, grease to get thick and very very viscid restrictive to sliding motion.

Pretty darn neat when isolastics function as designed so just turbo fan sense of thrust.
Do reach down now and then to feel a cover while riding to know how much they are doing for us and frame and brackets and fillings and joints with nerve endings.
 
I may go back and replace the gaiters if it starts to look nasty, but for now I will just enjoy the ride. Rear isos are next.

A photo of the bike:

vernier isolastic orientation
 
nice Normad, I want a similar smooth one this winter in yellow.
I and a few others have put in extra doughnuts in rear to stiffle their sag longer.
No extra or any vibes transmitted. I sliced old factory ones to use in venier type.

I've switched rear iso adjuster over w/o removing whole engine but not sure its a labor saver but its sure riskier to finishes.
 
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