Useless front braking...need to upgrade

1973 850 with terrible front braking, it takes tremendous lever action to get any slowing down. Time to upgrade to ss brake line and longer lever first, then will consider m/c re-sleeve. With my standard European bars, I find that the rubber brake line is quite long, and with the flatter bars I installed the rubber brake line has a very pronounced curve from yoke to caliper, so would a standard oem length of ss hose be too long? How much slack should be allowed?
Any other suggestions for improved braking?

Just passed my annual MOT with another lockup on the front brake on the roller, my upgrade is Lockheed racing caliper, Lockheed racing lever, stainless steel hose. Could go further but all my other bikes have drum brakes so don't want too much difference but its still miles better than it was. When you measure for the new hose do it on the center stand to get full extension on the forks and add a couple of inches.

I recommend that at minimum you: Rebuild the caliper to be sure it's in top shape, have the MC resleeved add the SS line and Ferodo Platinum pads. Braking will be 50% better. If you don't mind the non-oem look, the Brembo master cyl kit (CNW) will make the front brake equal to a modern machine that uses the same size front tire that you can fit on a Commando. The tire will determine the braking power; the brake itself will not be the weak link.

Plenty of options to get less lever effort to squeeze pads
on rotor that others will cover in spades and in dual versions.

Only things I've done to my stock Combat that gave 30-40%
less effort was to poke a hot nail through the tiny
restriction at end of the rubber valve deep in m-cylinder
and a RGM race lever. Still rubber hose and factory pads
on worn off chrome rotor. I like a bit extra effort
for the panic events as acts like ABS > squeals like crazy
w/o sliding till below hi way speeds then can lock up at will
on 110 size tire.

Sleeved m-cylinder kits all have the restriction completely
removed so its perfectly safe, if you expect the less
lever force and more whoa on hand.
I suspect the tiny restriction was to mimic drum brake
behavior for some reason.

hobot

I fitted the Andover Disc Brake Upgrade Kit, Part#13-1600, last weekend. This has improved the front brake enormously from the wooden thing that was on there before. All the power I need anyway, and as stated earlier, the limit is probably now the tyre.

Go to
http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/Accessories.htm
and scroll down to find it.

The only thing I had to watch out for was that the adaptor bracket ended up covering slightly the beginning of the bend of the handlebar, such that I had to remove some material with a bit of careful filing.

Best regards, Phil.

I wouldn't call the factory Lockheed braking terrible... wooden, yes but not terrible. That said, the 13 mm sleeve modification and a stainless braided hose turned my otherwise stock brakes into something delightful. Controllable, predictable, great feel and will lock the front wheel at will. I have no desire to improve it further.

Reassembled my master cylinder tonight. I left it stock as the wish list was getting too long and I figured this was something easy to get back at later. Any way...noticed a couple of things. First there are two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. The one nearest the center is tiny. At first glance they appear the same size but I had to cut some stranded copper wire to find something handy to make sure it was clear. It wasn't. It would be easy to overlook a blockage here. Second is the vent in the reservoir cap. Also very tiny and could get clogged with polish or crud and cause the bellows to not function properly.
Maybe?
Russ

Just remember, the original 2LS Italian front brake couldn't develop enough bending moment through the headstock into the frame to cause any structural problems. That's why there was no cross-bracing in the early Commandos. If you slowed down quickly enough to damage the frame, it was because you'd crashed into something!

If you significantly improve the front brake power, make sure you add the cross-brace between the front downtubes and maybe even the secondary top tube.

I found the ratio you are using which is stock is the reason it feels like wood.Since I did not have the switchgear to worry about I went to the 13MM brembo aftermarket lever.What a difference using the stock norton disc.
I recently finished a fastback project which I fitted yamaha rz 500 wheels with a double disc on the front and a single on the back.I put a japanese master cylinder for the back under a sub level battery box I made with the battery above. I used a stainless crossover line to the right side for the rear disc.I used the stock rear brake lever and everything works fine.No holes were drilled from stock. The 13 mm lever would not work on the front double disc.Someone posted a chart showing the correct ratio between 2 or 4 pistons such as a single or double disc. I put the norton lever back on and presto,good brakes.
Bruce

Thanks Jim:
That was the chart
Bruce