UPDATE: Commando kickback.

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Jan 18, 2004
Greetings everyone.
It seems that spring may have finally arrived in Michigan. I'm sure that those of you who took the time to offer advice to me will remember my situation from a couple of months prior. Although I am still putting my bike back together, I have no doubt that I have found the reason for the greatly advanced ignition timing on my bike. The problem: the key that prevents the rotor from moving on the crankshaft was nowhere to be found. The rotor had spun 90 degrees so it was impossible to properly time the engine. There was absolutely no sign sign of damage. The key was simply not there.
I'm sure that at least a few of you are thinking; "Jeez dude, why didn't you check that first off!" I humbly ask for your understanding. This is my first Norton and I am learning. However, unless it is possible for the key to work itself off the shaft and completely out of the primary case, I can't believe that she was "running just fine" when it left from its' previous owner in Georgia. Well, I'm hoping that starting this weekend, and from now on, this old British warrior is going to be running just fine!
Now, to beat a dead horse. I will be putting on a factory style oil filtration system before the bike is put into regular use. Please advise me on which oils to use in the engine and primary. Thanks to everyone.
I prefer ATF in the primary, it only needs to keep the primary chain lubed. I personally run straight 40 weight in the engines, and 50 weight in a heavily modified engine in the summer time. That being said I know many who prefer 20w50 multigrade and have also had great success. If you are confident about how oiltight your motor is you could even run synthetic.

Ron L
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