around 40 psi (indicated) @ idle. seem like it's pushing 60 with a few thousand RPM's. I noted it, but didn't pay close attention to it.How much oil pressure does it have?
Need to check once fully warmed up and also when running hot after a hiway haul. My 850 running BelRay 20w50 Synth shows 40 at idle after startup, but after a full highway run it will be down near/under 10 (gauge stops at 10) on hot days in traffic while idling.around 40 psi (indicated) @ idle. seem like it's pushing 60 with a few thousand RPM's. I noted it, but didn't pay close attention to it.
neighbor shot the video - supposed to forward it, but we went out for a couple cold ones and wings. soon as I get it....Sooo... can we hear it run?
Sooo... can we hear it run?
You got to first upload to a video server like YouTube or Vimeo. Then take that link and paste it here.OK, I give up. how do you attach a cell phone video?
can't say for sure it was the pazon ignition. I did have the interference between the alternator rotor and stator, and that might have had something to do with getting enough "kick start" inertia - again, can't say for sure. i'm not convinced it was a timing issue. I did set 28° static timing with the tri-spark, using a degree wheel, which wasn't much off from the several attempts with the pazon timing sets. I went through a adjusted the valves - all were either a little too tight or too loose - .001 to .002, so I brought them back to factory specs. finally, I went through and re-rebuilt the carbs with fresh needles and jets (factory specs). so, to answer your question, don't know exactly - most likely, it was a combination of all of the above. one thing, I seem to have a hotter spark with the tri-spark vs. the pazon, but that's subjective on my part. finally, I switched from NGK plugs to champion.So what was wrong with it? Ignition?
Brilliant newscan't say for sure it was the pazon ignition. I did have the interference between the alternator rotor and stator, and that might have had something to do with getting enough "kick start" inertia - again, can't say for sure. i'm not convinced it was a timing issue. I did set 28° static timing with the tri-spark, using a degree wheel, which wasn't much off from the several attempts with the pazon timing sets. I went through a adjusted the valves - all were either a little too tight or too loose - 1° to 2°, so I brought them back to factory specs. finally, I went through and re-rebuilt the carbs with fresh needles and jets (factory specs). so, to answer your question, don't know exactly - most likely, it was a combination of all of the above. one thing, I seem to have a hotter spark with the tri-spark vs. the pazon, but that's subjective on my part. finally, I switched from NGK plugs to champion.
a little general FYI info - I did install the Don Pender (madass140) carb gantry system, so no choke. ambient temp (NE florida) in the low-mid 70's.
my "first start" starting sequence, fuel on, tickled the carbs, cracked the throttle and brought it through with a couple kicks. only then, ignition and a kick start, no throttle. as I recall, a couple good ignition pops, and on the third kick, lift-off. I did have to feather the throttle until I got up to temp. after about a minute, laid off the throttle and she stalled. second attempt, feathered the throttle, and had my neighbor tweak the carbs until I had a steady-state idle. not sure the carbs are balanced, and I still need to strobe the timing, but after 6 or 7 years, getting life back into the old girl, at least to me, was a major step forward. still need to address my leaking brake caliper before any road test, but i'm getting there.
still need to down load the video and post - stay tuned.