Turn Indicators started flashing quickly

Saber

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I noticed on my last ride that the turn signal indicators are flashing more rapidly than normal. About double what they used to do. All 4 of them are doing it and all 4 have incandescent bulbs. I installed a new flasher unit (Lucas SFB 115) a couple years ago. Is this a normal failure mode for the module or should I be going through the circuit looking for potential problems? All other lights are functioning normally. I have LED head lamp and tail lamp bulbs.
 
Rapid flashing is normally a symptom of one of the bulbs blowing (or failing to operate).
Have you checked that all bulbs are operating?
Cheers.
 
I have a utility vehicle and sometimes tow a small trailer. With the trailer plugged into the car's electrics the blinkers will flash quickly because of the extra current of another bulb. If it doesn't, it means I need to check the connector for corrosion.
 
I am in process of finishing off a rebuild/ resto on a Mk3 and had the same problem- new indicators and flasher unit all Lucas/ wassel, bulbs were 23watt so changed to 21watt no difference, in the end borrowed a used o.e. flasher from a friend which worked great, went back to my supplier who advised that all the new lucas flashers have the same problem and wassel state to fit 20 watt bulbs. I went to the Auto shop and brought a pattern flasher relay all fixed!.
 
Yes easy to fit a modern type flasher unit. Just need the two connector type. $10 Typically. You can also get an LED compatible type for a bit more which work fine with either incandescent or led. For future proofing.
 
I finally had a chance to get into this issue. I checked, wiggled, removed and re-inserted all 4 bulbs. Checked connections inside the headlamp shell. No change. Then I ran a jumper from the battery to the flasher and it started working properly. While connecting the jumper I did take a look at the harness above the battery and moved it around a bit. No visible signs of chaffing etc. After I removed the jumper, it kept working properly so I buttoned it back up and went for a ride. All ok. I suspect that my moving the harness may have done something but am wondering if connecting the jumper gave it just enough boost to start it working again. Oh well, on to the next thing - some overdue polishing.
 
I finally had a chance to get into this issue. I checked, wiggled, removed and re-inserted all 4 bulbs. Checked connections inside the headlamp shell. No change. Then I ran a jumper from the battery to the flasher and it started working properly. While connecting the jumper I did take a look at the harness above the battery and moved it around a bit. No visible signs of chaffing etc. After I removed the jumper, it kept working properly so I buttoned it back up and went for a ride. All ok. I suspect that my moving the harness may have done something but am wondering if connecting the jumper gave it just enough boost to start it working again. Oh well, on to the next thing - some overdue polishing.
Honestly, this doesn't make sense. A poor connection would make the bulbs flash slower, not faster.
 
I have replaced my flasher unit and touched nothing else. I'm getting the same symptom of rapid indicator flashing. It's cured the problem I was having, a long delay before the indicators would start flashing. Bizarre. Wonder if there are some faulty flasher units out there?
 
I have replaced my flasher unit and touched nothing else. I'm getting the same symptom of rapid indicator flashing. It's cured the problem I was having, a long delay before the indicators would start flashing. Bizarre. Wonder if there are some faulty flasher units out there?
Are both indicators flashing? The warning light in the shell? Fast running usually is a blown bulb. Or a short.
 
When I had some weird flasher performance, even with a new modern type, I eventually traced it to a short happening inside the large rubber multi block bullet connector under the tank. Seems the newly sourced 5 bullet connector had rather thin rubber between at least one of the metal connectors. It was shorting out one or more circuits. Likely the cause of some engine stumbles/cut outs and weird light effects....all sporadic.

I removed the multi and went with a series of doubles, singles and a triple I think.
 
I'm joining this thread now because I'm going through the same pains. About a year ago I finished all the electrical jobs on my rebuild and had everything working nicely, I was so happy and I celebrated with a beer. About that time I threw a blanket over the project and let it sit for a year while I focused on other things. I come back now and indicators are flashing rapidly and front brake lights not working. Very frustrating. I've spent the last week chasing 12 volts back and forth and still can't find the problem
 
I come back now and indicators are flashing rapidly and front brake lights not working. Very frustrating. I've spent the last week chasing 12 volts back and forth and still can't find the problem

Does it still have the old rubber block connector under the fuel tank? If so then you're probably wasting your time until you replace it with either a new one (if you can find one?) or with five double-common connectors plus any additional old single or double connectors as all original connector sleeves are likely to be corroded and brittle.


 
I'm joining this thread now because I'm going through the same pains. About a year ago I finished all the electrical jobs on my rebuild and had everything working nicely, I was so happy and I celebrated with a beer. About that time I threw a blanket over the project and let it sit for a year while I focused on other things. I come back now and indicators are flashing rapidly and front brake lights not working. Very frustrating. I've spent the last week chasing 12 volts back and forth and still can't find the problem
Fast flashing is an indication of a short b/c the flasher bi-metallic strip is heating up too rapidly as as excess current passes through it.
As I mentioned in previous post here, I had this issue and solved after finding a short in the rubber multiblock connector. Was a new one and had a very thin separation of rubber between two or more bullet connections. It was sporadic and other electrics were sometimes effected. A blow fuse, some occasional misfires etc all cured when block replaced with several doubles and singles.
 
Yes I have all the colours separated with their own connections but it creates such a thick cluster I really don't like that part of the bike. I will go back there though and double check and insulate all the joins
 
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