Trouble Starting, needs tickling hot

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Correct size pilot jets mate if they are premiers? Mine 650SS had shipped with 15's in it an needed tickling hot till I fitted the correct size when I had the premiers fitted went perfect after that oh an it to big mains as well.
 
If you have dependable ways to start the bike hot and cold, you don’t have a problem.

Good luck fixing it though!
 
With most four-strokes, you don't have to start them with the throttle closed and most will start if you have more than one-third throttle, provided the needles and needle jets are slightly too rich. The problem comes when you lean-off the needles and needle jets to get max. performance. Then you need the idle circuit to be working properly. With my bike, I need to feed the throttle on as you would do with a two-stroke. It becomes a habit. With Mk2 Amals there is an enrichener which is very useful for cold starting. You could try raising the needles one notch, but then you might be fixing an error with an error.
 
Carbs go lean when hot. If you've ever watched someone trying to re-start a hot, high-comp single after killing it, you'll see the principle demonstrated in the flesh. A tight, new motor will make this seem even worse because you can't get it to spin as fast with the kicker.

Mine seem to behave best with the floats set as high as possible without leakage.
 
norton_rider said:
Correct size pilot jets mate if they are premiers? Mine 650SS had shipped with 15's in it an needed tickling hot till I fitted the correct size when I had the premiers fitted went perfect after that oh an it to big mains as well.
Click to expand...

Not Premiers.
 
swooshdave said:
I said the air filter is off right now, so it is leaner (more air is going in). Putting the air cleaner back on will richen it a little as less air (more fuel in relation) will go in.
Click to expand...

I've been surprised at how much difference an air cleaner makes when starting. Before my e-start, with a ham can paper filter my bike wanted full choke and a tickle when cold. After starting I'd back off to 3/4 choke and let it warm up before backing the choke off. Now with the K&N filter it only wants 3/4 choke starting cold, and zero choke before riding off. It seems the K&N is more restrictive than the ham can was. Starting a hot motor with the push button fires up quicker with just a smidgen of throttle.
 
I pulled the bowls last night and one of the floats was slightly different height than the the other. I evened them out. And added the air filter. I'll try the bike again today.
 
Good luck .... hope it comes to life easier .... of all issues hard starting is worst on these old bikes ...
 
I use a choke on my B44 for hot starts after 2 or 3 mins rest, singles do not create enough depression in a carb at kicking speeds to draw enough fuel, plus the 2 or 3 mins allows the heat to get to the carb. As soon as it takes it 8 strokes and I have to take the choke off immediately, idle mixture is set for a hot engine and I get a good reliable idle with no stalling at lights etc so its not a weak pilot mixture. So if tickling is not your thing then use the choke as it can be removed as soon as the engine fires, tickling gives you a longer rich mixture.
 
And since tickling is akin to temporarily raising the float levels.......
 
I may have made it worse. I started the bike and notices the right side wasn't firing evenly. And the exhaust was cold. The left side was nice and steady.

Not sure what I did.
 
If you had the throttle slides out, you may have displaced the needle when you put one back in.

The pilot jet may be blocked by stuff you disturbed.
 
If you have spark on that side, it could only be 2 things.

- Too rich to fire: fuel level too high or needle out of place. Spark plug and exhaust will be wet.
- No fuel: Clogged Pilot Jet. Remove the side screw, dislodge with wire, and spray good quality carb cleaner through the red plastic straw for 5 seconds.
 
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