Trl-spark reg/rec

I just received my Tri-spark Mosfet reg/rec from Trispark AU, intend to fit it asap, but before I do, does anyone here have any experience of the item in question

It's still a short type, so it doesn't mean you can now over spec your alternator if you are not going to be using the power you are producing.
Stick with with ten amp alternator stators unless you've got an electric start.

I much prefer the idea of a MOSFET over and above the SCR based reg/recs because the charging accuracy is massively improved and they run a lot cooler!

I still hear (and read in their instructions) that they are charging at 14.5 volts though - I would have loved to have seen this threshold capped at 13.8 volts, bearing in mind a Shorai LiFEPO4 battery explodes when you charge it at 15.2 volts.
It's just a little too close to the limit for my liking.

All in all though, I feel it's a step in the right direction.
Plus no interference issues with the Tri-Spark Classic Twin electronic ignition.

It's great to see Andover, RGM and Rex's Speedshop stocking them here in the UK - and I hope the price point starts to come down and they displace the poor quality units that have been leading the market for so long!

Thanks, my bike is electric start Mk. 3 . I didn't know they were available through AN, Rex, or RGM and ordered straight from Steve Kelly in Aus.

Quote: " bearing in mind a Shorai LiFEPO4 battery explodes when you charge it at 15.2 volts. "

I don't know that as a fact. I've charged mine to over 15 on occasion and I haven't heard a boom yet.
Jaydee

Ignore my comment about alternator sizing then!

On the grounds you will be constantly replenishing a depleted battery, the 16 amp LU47239 ‘high output’ single phase or 14.5 amp LU47244 ‘high output’ three phase are both valid options.

Steve Kelly seems to be well tuned in - I like the fact that his FireBox Pro has a separate electronics box and that he’s reverted to oil-filled coils too.
I’m sorry I missed his Norton Owner’s Club chat last year, but he’d been and gone before I heard about it.

@jaydee75 meh, just my opinion and probably just me being over cautious.



Most of the lithium-based battery vendors specify 15.2 volts as the absolute max.

I get slammed all the time on the Facebook groups by the guys that ‘have sold thousands and never had a single problem’
So feel free to ignore me!

gtiller said:

@jaydee75 meh, just my opinion and probably just me being over cautious.

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Most of the lithium-based battery vendors specify 15.2 volts as the absolute max.

I get slammed all the time on the Facebook groups by the guys that ‘have sold thousands and never had a single problem’
So feel free to ignore me!

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Don't think that those images aren't in my head every time I ride. My Sparx 3 phase alternator and Shindengen MOSFET r/r have never exceeded 14.5 but yeah, I'd like to see a few tenths lower. I'm actually considering putting a 15 volt zener in parallel as a safety net.

Since I was once set on fire with gasoline, I stay away from anything under my seat known to catch fire with a gas tank between my legs! Small Lithium batteries are almost magical in their ability to start a MKIII repeatedly but you won't find one under my seat. Yes, I know other things can start a fire on an old bike, but when Lithium goes, it usually stays burning for a while and can do it explosively.

As some of you know, I sell the Tri-Spark MOSFET regulator in the "For Sale" section here. Steve told me in writing that they are OK to use with Lithium batteries. While I'm sure he's right, I don't consider Lithium batteries safe to use on old bikes so I don't recommend using them. If you insist on using a Lithium battery, please don't do it with PODtronics POD-1-HP or the OEM charging system.

I took off a podtronics in favor of the trispark R R and as gtiller states it is a cooler and more effecent unit. I did a siple test to see with a DMM set to AC. the trispark unit was FAR superior in showing less AC noise.

bill - How much AC noise voltage on the DMM were you seeing before and after? I'm building a little simple filter to fit under the tank to make my new Tri-Spark as happy as possible for long life. I have a fast scope to look at it once I finish it up. I'm using the SH775 series regulator now.
Russ

with the pod it started at idle with .02 and would climb with the RPM to over .1 with the trispark mosfet it was .02 and droped as RPMs went up

bill said:

I took off a podtronics in favor of the trispark R R and as gtiller states it is a cooler and more effecent unit. I did a siple test to see with a DMM set to AC. the trispark unit was FAR superior in showing less AC noise.

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Can you be sure that the noise you are measuring on the multimeter is not coming from the meter's leads acting as an 'antenna' ?Most mm leads are not shielded or you have an adapter and use a coax lead .

An oscilloscope is a better tool for that.

You can see the oscilloscope plots from @Jeandr 's testing of a Podtronic versus OEM zener versus Shindengen SH775

This was on a bench using transformers as AC input sources, so there is no EMF or RFI noise from the bike.

When you look at the plots, you can see why the Pod interferes with a Tri-Spark at certain RPMs - the wave looks quite dirty and manic.
It varies too much according to different loads for my liking - and on a bike, the load will of course go up or down depending on what consumers are switched on.

I was surprised that the Tri-Spark fix of a ferrite cored filter was a good enough fix for this, and I wonder if they've added a smooth capacitor in there too.
https://www.trispark.com.au/assets/files/Misfiring at 3000 to 4000 RPM - Caused by Voltage.pdf


The last two Podtronics I have tested, I was surprised to see them holding voltage after the input supply was disconnected.
One unit was the 200 watt ‘hi power’ POD-1P-HP
The other was the Tri-Spark labelled model VR-0003 which is the three phase POD-3P
I don’t usually see them holding voltage like that, suggesting they’ve upped the capacitors inside.

it was no more than a simple comparison test and IMHO if it was the leads than there would be NO change in the readings between the two.

HRD said:

Can you be sure that the noise you are measuring on the multimeter is not coming from the meter's leads acting as an 'antenna' ?Most mm leads are not shielded or you have an adapter and use a coax lead .

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you are correct BUT how many have an oscilloscope in there tool box? as I stated it was a simple and easy test with tools most do have.

maylar said:

An oscilloscope is a better tool for that.

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