Mounting a Tri-Spark reg/rec

RoadScholar

RoadScholar

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Dec 28, 2008
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Finding a place for an air cooled part on an air cooled motorcycle can be difficult. Last year a member of this forum gave me the idea I was searching for. I must have spend an hour searching for that post because I wanted to give all the credit for the idea to him. My implementation is different, but both have the same "mother".

I started with the idea that I would use the rear fender mounting plate, but I'd use 2 fasteners for the Tri-Spark and the 3 that fasten the plate to the motorcycle. Here are the pictures:

Mounting a Tri-Spark reg/rec


Mounting a Tri-Spark reg/rec







Mounting a Tri-Spark reg/rec


Mounting a Tri-Spark reg/rec


Mounting a Tri-Spark reg/rec
Mounting a Tri-Spark reg/recMounting a Tri-Spark reg/recMounting a Tri-Spark reg/recMounting a Tri-Spark reg/recMounting a Tri-Spark reg/rec
 
Great bit of handy work.
I would offer that velcro, with zip ties offer built in vibration isolation.
I know, solid state components potted in epoxy.
JMWO
 
Nice job. Did you have to drill more holes in the bracket for the reg or were they already there at the proper spacing? Also is the new reg painted or is it powdercoated?
Russ
 
RoadScholar said:
Finding a place for an air cooled part on an air cooled motorcycle can be difficult. Last year a member of this forum gave me the idea I was searching for. I must have spend an hour searching for that post because I wanted to give all the credit for the idea to him. My implementation is different, but both have the same "mother".

View attachment 86450
Click to expand...

Nice location. Despite the regulator/rectifier being advertised as a unit operating at lower temperatures than a diode rectifier, I would like to propose some improvements:

* You are not taking advantage of heat dissipation by conduction, relying on convection and radiation only. Isn't the rectifier supposed to be fitted on a conductive layer of metal?
* Convection is somewhat hampered by cooling ribs shielded by adjacent ribs. I think convective heat transfer would improve by rotating the rectifier 90 degrees, exposiong all cooling ribs to the breeze.

- Knut
 
That's where I have mine mounted, but more to the left in the battery box area (not under the upper tube), and mounted on a 3/16 aluminium plate.
 
RoadScholar said:
Finding a place for an air cooled part on an air cooled motorcycle can be difficult. Last year a member of this forum gave me the idea I was searching for. I must have spend an hour searching for that post because I wanted to give all the credit for the idea to him. My implementation is different, but both have the same "mother".

I started with the idea that I would use the rear fender mounting plate, but I'd use 2 fasteners for the Tri-Spark and the 3 that fasten the plate to the motorcycle. Here are the pictures:


View attachment 86450View attachment 86450
Click to expand...
I've been mounting them on the back plate of the hamcan air filter or on the back of the battery carrier. I'll do it your way now - thank you! The back of the battery carrier is not convenient for the wiring and the back of the air filter is a great place but it's also a nice place to carry other things.

For those concerned about heat, don't be: "Smaller in size makes fitting possible in tight locations under the seat or behind side panels. Cool running so you can hide it away!" Even if you've greatly reduced the load (switched to all LEDs) and have upsized the stator it's OK - see the Tri-Spark video - they've tested with 6amp load using a 16amp stator:


The only mod I plan to make to your plan is to braze the fender bolt and two rectifier mounting bolts into place before painting or powder coating the bracket. That way the fender or rectifier can come off with ease without disturbing the other or the bracket.
 
marshg246 said:
The only mod I plan to make to your plan is to braze the fender bolt and two rectifier mounting bolts into place before painting or powder coating the bracket. That way the fender or rectifier can come off with ease without disturbing the other or the bracket.
Click to expand...
I brazed studs into the plate on mine, and it works a treat. Drilling and tapping holes for the studs holds them neatly in place for brazing.
Russ
998cc
 
@RoadScholar very nice. Are those alternator stud spacers under the reg? Also, is there room between the plate and the fender for the thin nut, or did you add a 1/4" spacer in between the plate and the mudguard?
 
batrider said:
Nice job. Did you have to drill more holes in the bracket for the reg or were they already there at the proper spacing? Also is the new reg painted or is it powdercoated?
Russ
Click to expand...
I drilled the 2 extra holes to have the centers match the center of the (OE) 5/16". I learned that the Tri-Spark has 8 mm mounting holes which are thin enough that I didn't want challenge them by opening them up so I went with 1/4-28 and thin ny-lock nuts.

The SS spacers are available all over the web. I purchased 2 with 5/16" bores and 1/2" lengths. I wasn't happy with differences, but they ended up giving me some "wiggle" room that let me square the the Tri-Spark.

No idea what the question about powder coating comes from, but the plate is painted.

marshg246 said:
The only mod I plan to make to your plan is to braze the fender bolt and two rectifier mounting bolts into place before painting or powder coating the bracket. That way the fender or rectifier can come off with ease without disturbing the other or the bracket.
Click to expand...

I thought about doing this, but I am not a welder which means more time and a higher opportunity cost, if you get the aesthetics right you won't need any "wiggle" room.

Best.
 
RoadScholar said:
No idea what the question about powder coating comes from, but the plate is painted.
Click to expand...
Most bikes I rebuild need that bracket (and most others) refinished. I powder coat all black parts small enough to fit my powder coat oven. So, I'll sand blast, add the bolts, braze, and powder coat.
 
RoadScholar said:
I drilled the 2 extra holes to have the centers match the center of the (OE) 5/16". I learned that the Tri-Spark has 8 mm mounting holes which are thin enough that I didn't want challenge them by opening them up so I went with 1/4-28 and thin ny-lock nuts.

The SS spacers are available all over the web. I purchased 2 with 5/16" bores and 1/2" lengths. I wasn't happy with differences, but they ended up giving me some "wiggle" room that let me square the the Tri-Spark.

No idea what the question about powder coating comes from, but the plate is painted.



I thought about doing this, but I am not a welder which means more time and a higher opportunity cost, if you get the aesthetics right you won't need any "wiggle" room.

Best.
Click to expand...
I'm getting ready to add the Tri-Spark MOSFET to my '72 Combat and want to use your design. What length 1/4-28 socket head bolts did you use?
 
HouTexNorton said:
I'm getting ready to add the Tri-Spark MOSFET to my '72 Combat and want to use your design. What length 1/4-28 socket head bolts did you use?
Click to expand...

Sadly, RoadScholar is no longer with us.

RoadScholar

Godspeed Bill, a kind soul. May Peace be with your spirit. May God comfort your family & friends feeling the pain of your loss. https://www.tighehamilton.com/obituary/William-J-BlakeJr
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
Here is what I have used for quite a few years.No problems or welding required.Sorry to hear about Bill.He always answered any questions I had and was a pleasure to deal with.
 

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