Triple tree coating?

UlyTiger

UlyTiger

Joined
Nov 6, 2025
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Howdy,

I inherited a 75 Commando and she needs some love. Does anyone know what coating or paint may have been used on the triple tree? There's some light rust that I'm going to wire wheel off but I'll remove whatever coating was used. I thought I could a spray on galvanizing paint but it just looks like gray primer. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
UlyTiger said:
Howdy,

I inherited a 75 Commando and she needs some love. Does anyone know what coating or paint may have been used on the triple tree? There's some light rust that I'm going to wire wheel off but I'll remove whatever coating was used. I thought I could a spray on galvanizing paint but it just looks like gray primer. Thanks in advance for any help.
Click to expand...
It's basically silver paint.

Personally, I powder coat them black as I don't like the clash of all the various "silver colors". Chrome fork ears, hard chrome forks, silver triple trees (yokes), chrome top fork bolts, chrome handlebars, stainless or chrome fenders, aluminum fork sliders, and often a different silver for fender stays. Yes, I'm fully aware that it's non-standard.
 
It was many years ago and as powder coatings vary as much as paint types it may not work. I had mine powder coated silver, I accidentally scratched the surface so then I applied T cut to smooth it out and found it cut it back to a grey that matched the original finish.
 
If you want a very hard and easy to apply finish then try Spray Max 2K Fill Clean Systems.
Easy to use 2 part epoxy spray (rattle) can - should be available from a paint shop near you.
I have used it for many things like that - I recommend it
Standard is gloss but when they mix it for you they can add something to make it satin or matte - I like satin. It has button on the bottom of the can to release the hardener, has to be used within 24 hrs after pressing, so line up other things you might want painted with the same finish!
Cheers
 
Last edited:
I had mine sand blasted and used VHT Cast Aluminum SP995 and Rust-oleum Satin Clear enamel. It’s very close to the factory color and so far has held up well.
 

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robs ss said:
If you want a very hard and easy to apply finish then try Spray Max 2K Fill Clean Systems.
Easy to use 2 part epoxy spray (rattle) can - should be available from a paint shop near you.
I have used it for many things like that - I recommend it
Standard is gloss but when they mix it for you they can add something to make it satin or matte - I like satin. It has button on the bottom of the can to release the hardener, has to be used within 24 hrs after pressing, so line up other things you might want painted with the same finish!
Cheers
Click to expand...
Rob,
Do you fill the paint cans yourself? I just looked them up and could not find any retailers that I could order a particular color.
Thanks,Mike
 
robs ss said:
If you want a very hard and easy to apply finish then try Spray Max 2K Fill Clean Systems.
Easy to use 2 part epoxy spray (rattle) can - should be available from a paint shop near you.
I have used it for many things like that - I recommend it
Standard is gloss but when they mix it for you they can add something to make it satin or matte - I like satin. It has button on the bottom of the can to release the hardener, has to be used within 24 hrs after pressing, so line up other things you might want painted with the same finish!
Cheers
Click to expand...
Rob,
Do you fill the cans yourself? If not, I could not find a retailer that does.
Thanks,Mike
 
UlyTiger said:
Howdy,

I inherited a 75 Commando and she needs some love. Does anyone know what coating or paint may have been used on the triple tree? There's some light rust that I'm going to wire wheel off but I'll remove whatever coating was used. I thought I could a spray on galvanizing paint but it just looks like gray primer. Thanks in advance for any help.
Click to expand...
My '76 has that too but it doesn't bother me much.

Light rust can be removed with product such as evaporust and sometimes WD40.
I would do that unless the paint is flaking off. It is a flat silver paint without primer, difficult to match up from a rattle can and I've tried them all.

Got pics?
 
YING said:
Rob,
Do you fill the cans yourself? If not, I could not find a retailer that does.
Thanks,Mike
Click to expand...
No, one of our local paint shops sells them.
You just choose a colour and a finish and they prepare the can while you wait.
Not cheap at $40 (AUD) per can, but not too bad.
Cheers
 
elefantrider said:
My '76 has that too but it doesn't bother me much.

Light rust can be removed with product such as evaporust and sometimes WD40.
I would do that unless the paint is flaking off. It is a flat silver paint without primer, difficult to match up from a rattle can and I've tried them all.

Got pics?
Click to expand...
Its just that, light rust. no major material loss. I'm just looking for ideas. It sat for a bit in a barn in northern Minneasota and now I have it at my place in the PNW. I'm not looking to make a garage queen, but I would like to shine it up a bit.
 
Evaporust works wonders but needs to soak, does not destroy original paint or chrome. Requires water to rinse off.
It will remove cad/zinc coating from any fasteners.

You might first try dish soap and water in a ZEP spray bottle with a rag.

WD40 leaves an oily mess.

I am using WD40 Dry Lube :

Dry Lube Spray - Dirt & Dust Resistant Dry Lube | WD-40

Reduce friction and provide long-lasting lubrication with the dry lube spray from WD-40. This formula dries quickly and resists dirt and dust. WD-40 Dry Lube Spray is great for door and window tracks, slides, belts, rollers and hinges.
www.wd40.com www.wd40.com

Anything using water and I'd recommend only doing on a warm sunny day so all the water thoroughly dries, else it will rust more!

Always start and run the engine after putting any water on or near it.
 
UlyTiger said:
Its just that, light rust. no major material loss. I'm just looking for ideas. It sat for a bit in a barn in northern Minneasota and now I have it at my place in the PNW. I'm not looking to make a garage queen, but I would like to shine it up a bit.
Click to expand...
If the "light rust" is superficial, and you are looking for a solution short of strip and repaint, try an abrasive cleaner, applied with a cloth. You could use a cutting compound or aluminum polish like autosol. This will remove the oxides. Then apply a good coating of paste wax. Buff the wax. If you don't leave the bike out in damp conditions on a regular basis, it will look good for a very long time.
 
Rattle can man here... I've had great success with VHT brake and caliper paint (silver, black, satin black) as it's heat cured, I put parts in the bbq for the time/temp on the can. It looks right and cures hard with a nice subdued sheen. It's a good shortcut, for me at least.

For rust, such as tanks, I've turned to citric acid powder and washing soda (sodium carbonate), which I get at the dollar store. Great for tanks but the yoke can be mechanically dealt with. Or just leave it to soak in vinegar for a couple of days.

I did a bunch of stuff wifh the VHT on my Suzuki Turbo and also a Commando, came out brilliant. My .02 anyway.

As Rob says, Spraymax is the bomb. I've use the clear 'glamour' on old worn tanks on my Suzukis, and it is super, fuel-resistant like the VHT, & lays on very nicely. A bit more $ than I wanted to spend on yokes, but I'm a cheap ol' bastid.

Triple tree coating?


Triple tree coating?
 
Last edited:
UlyTiger said:
Its just that, light rust. no major material loss. I'm just looking for ideas. It sat for a bit in a barn in northern Minneasota and now I have it at my place in the PNW. I'm not looking to make a garage queen, but I would like to shine it up a bit.
Click to expand...
Hope you are not in Snohomish. Yikes!!

Caliper paint and an oven as Tom mentioned above should work on the yokes after removing the rust.
 
I used a black gloss for the oil tank manufactured from the UK , so I had to use it on the Nort. Not 2 part, but turned out real well

Triple tree coating?
 
gpzkat said:
Rattle can man here... I've had great success with VHT brake and caliper paint (silver, black, satin black) as it's heat cured, I put parts in the bbq for the time/temp on the can. It looks right and cures hard with a nice subdued sheen. It's a good shortcut, for me at least.
Click to expand...
I use and really like VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint and their Barrel Paint. Funny thing is that in the 60s/70s DupliColor paint was good and I used it a lot. Today it is terrible. Guess who owns VHT!

So: Duplicolor is a division of Sherwin Williams and Duplicolor owns VHT. How does VHT stay good?
 
marshg246 said:
I use and really like VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint and their Barrel Paint. Funny thing is that in the 60s/70s DupliColor paint was good and I used it a lot. Today it is terrible. Guess who owns VHT!

So: Duplicolor is a division of Sherwin Williams and Duplicolor owns VHT. How does VHT stay good?
Click to expand...
I've read some people think the VHT isn't as good as it used to be, and that may be true but I haven't noticed. I've also used the roll bar and chassis paint to good effect. I used the B&C on my Norton's barrels because I like its sheen best, and figured its chemical resistance was good. It's rated for 900F and holds up extremely well. I once had a fuel spill due to a broken spigot, drenched my engine when it was hot, just back from a ride. It didn't affect it at all. That was quite scary, because I put my finger over the barrel and rolled the bike over to a bucket and fire extinguisher located on the other side of the garage one-handed.

Triple tree coating?
 

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