Tri-spark now sparking

Status
Not open for further replies.
2 X 6Volt coils in series, resistor plug caps, new plugs. (Most of these components have been proved recently on both points and Boyer) good wires throughout including wire from engine to battery. I must admit to not doing the two tests as I just wanted the bike running asap. Now running sweetly with the PWKs and old Boyer. You think you are doing yourself a favour by "upgrading" to a more modern system after the old boyer which is over 25 years old. These trispark systems are not cheap but can I put up with the lack of reliability? Hmm
 
gripper said:
2 X 6Volt coils in series, resistor plug caps, new plugs. (Most of these components have been proved recently on both points and Boyer) good wires throughout including wire from engine to battery. I must admit to not doing the two tests as I just wanted the bike running asap. Now running sweetly with the PWKs and old Boyer. You think you are doing yourself a favour by "upgrading" to a more modern system after the old boyer which is over 25 years old. These trispark systems are not cheap but can I put up with the lack of reliability? Hmm
Click to expand...


It's an elegant design putting all the electronics in one spot, but probably not a good practical design given how hot the engine gets at that point. I installed one in a friends Norton a number of years ago and it failed, but the replacement (under warranty) has been going strong. Having said all that about the electronics placement, I'm running a Power Arc from Old Britts and it's all in the points cover too. So far, so good.
 
Just re-fitted the trispark to see if the test 1 and 2 revealed any fault. All running sweetly. How strange. Is it possible that disconnecting everything in the system and re-connecting could clear a problem?
 
gripper said:
Is it possible that disconnecting everything in the system and re-connecting could clear a problem?
Click to expand...
I call this "The Farquhar Theorem " whereas you take it apart (what ever it may be) and put it back together and all is well. Very common.
 
Six years ago I did a 400 mile blast back to my home in Phoenix from Silver City NM. Bike ran like a champ with no problems. A week later went out for a short ride and only made it to the corner. This was the second time for this issue. Fortunately both times I was close to home. Stephen replaced it even though he could't find any problems. I was a bit gun shy and replaced it with a Pazon and in the last 6 years haven't had any problems. I put the Tri-Spark into a project bike I was building for sale.
I think that the Arizona summer heat combined with it being in the points cavity with all the engine heat had something to do with its issues.

John in Texas
 
Two weeks ago I managed 170 mile without a problem on the trispark. This weekend just past, the misfire at lower thottle settings is back, strangely it happens after rain but then continues once dry. When it goes it's good but it's just not reliable. I'm thinking of sending it back for a refund. Unfit for purpose, and actually dangerous at low throttle settings, departing traffic islands leant over etc. It's been on and off the bike about 5 times so far.
 
gripper said:
This weekend just past, the misfire at lower thottle settings is back, strangely it happens after rain but then continues once dry. When it goes it's good but it's just not reliable. I'm thinking of sending it back for a refund.
Click to expand...

I can't honestly see how that could be the fault of the Tri-Spark as it is a sealed unit and also tucked away inside the points cavity (unless the points cavity is filling with water!).

Sounds more like a wiring or ignition/kill switch (or HT/coil) problem to me.
 
I see many Commando's with no drip loop on the cable prior to entering the RH case - other than ensuring water runs off, it also serves to allow movement of the engine. I just use clear silicone sealant where it enters the cases and not had a drop of water get in in over 20 years. I know there is supposed to be grommet, but if there insufficient slack and it pulls and distorts the grommet it will hardly be water tight.
 
I didn't think about a drip loop when I installed my tri spark. I will run a new wire with a drip loop and silicon the hole.
thanks.
 
There is no water getting into the system, the wiring is as good as it gets i.e.. new and directly supplied from the battery via a switch. No kill switch/fuse/charging system glitches. Strange that the symptoms occur after rain but there is no water ingress and the symptoms continue after conditions are dry again.
 
pete.v said:
gripper said:
Is it possible that disconnecting everything in the system and re-connecting could clear a problem?
Click to expand...
I call this "The Farquhar Theorem " whereas you take it apart (what ever it may be) and put it back together and all is well. Very common.
Click to expand...

Good theory. I have something similar. You know when you take something apart and when it's all back together, you have a few leftover parts?
It's my theory that if you take a Norton apart often enough, and put it back together, you'll end up with enough bits to build another bike.

Yet to be tested.
 
gripper said:
There is no water getting into the system, the wiring is as good as it gets i.e.. new and directly supplied from the battery via a switch. No kill switch/fuse/charging system glitches. Strange that the symptoms occur after rain but there is no water ingress and the symptoms continue after conditions are dry again.
Click to expand...

Hose down your ignition coil(s) and see if the problem gets worse. Of all the ignition components, the coil and HT wires are the most susceptible to moisture / water. The Trispark is sealed in epoxy and hidden behind the points cover, I would suspect that last. You could also pull the cover and blow hot air on the ignition to dry it out, as a sanity check.

I was riding in heavy rain with friends and one of them was on a Yammie XJ700 that suddenly stopped on the interstate. We had the bike towed and spent the night in a motel. Next morning the bike still wouldn't run. Someone suggested spraying the coils with WD-40 (yup, Water Displacement!) and it worked -
 
After a few months of trouble free Boyer ignition I took the plunge and refitted the Trispark. No problems but, after covering some pretty dirty back lanes I elected to wash the bike. Error. hosed the bike off and used a compressed air line to clear the surplus water. The bike was more than a little reluctant to start and when it did, was only running on the LH cylinder. Eventually after some work with a hot air gun it runs on two again. With two coils in series and a wasted spark this seems strange. Does anybody here have an opinion that running a single dual output coil may solve my problem? I'm keen to get the Trispark to be reliable no matter what the weather. The same coil and HT leads work well with both Boyer and points and AAU.
 
gripper said:
After a few months of trouble free Boyer ignition I took the plunge and refitted the Trispark. No problems but, after covering some pretty dirty back lanes I elected to wash the bike. Error. hosed the bike off and used a compressed air line to clear the surplus water. The bike was more than a little reluctant to start and when it did, was only running on the LH cylinder. Eventually after some work with a hot air gun it runs on two again. With two coils in series and a wasted spark this seems strange. Does anybody here have an opinion that running a single dual output coil may solve my problem? I'm keen to get the Trispark to be reliable no matter what the weather. The same coil and HT leads work well with both Boyer and points and AAU.
Click to expand...

Surely that test (hosing) has highlighted a weakness in wiring / coils / etc? I can not see how that can be related to the ign choice. If anything, the Tri spark, being sealed, should fair better than the others with regards to water ingress?

I use the twin spark coil sold by Matt at cNw which is suited to the Tri Spark. I chose it because of this, ie it is a correctly compatible coil. Unless you are electrically savy, this seems the most sensible choice IMHO.
 
How well sealed is the electrical cable entry to the rear of the points (Trispark) housing?
Water pooling in there can make life interesting.
 
I'm in agreement with you Eddie but the same coils, leads, plug caps etc all work fine with both Boyer or points. It's all sealed with silicon sealant at the back
 
Just a bit of history for anyone who is interested.

I fitted a Boyer to my brand new interstate back in 73, at that time the Boyer box of tricks was an epoxy potted module that fitted into the contact breaker housing, together with an alloy spacer as the module was a bit too deep for the original housing. Boyer moved away from that design quite quickly, to use an external black box. I sold the bike in 74, but used Boyer's on BMWs, where they proved to be reliable on various trips including North and South America and 40C+ around Australia.
 
gripper said:
I'm in agreement with you Eddie but the same coils, leads, plug caps etc all work fine with both Boyer or points. It's all sealed with silicon sealant at the back
Click to expand...

If I read correctly, both ignitions were working fine until you hosed the bike?

If so, my thinking would be to look for water ingress related weakness in your system somewhere. I rather suspect you might be chasing your tail with the Tri-Spark vs Boyer thinking.

Only IMHO of course.
 
Three episodes of wet weather riding and one of careful washing have resulted in one cylinder dropping out (LH) with the Trispark ignition. I'm not talking about fording rivers here, just a light shower. I've taken the plunge and ordered a Trispark dual output coil. I don't suppose I'll have to wait long for some rain to test it out :D
 
gripper said:
Three episodes of wet weather riding and one of careful washing have resulted in one cylinder dropping out (LH) with the Trispark ignition. I'm not talking about fording rivers here, just a light shower. I've taken the plunge and ordered a Trispark dual output coil. I don't suppose I'll have to wait long for some rain to test it out :D
Click to expand...

I suggest you change spark plugs cables and caps at the same time. Just sayin'.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

E
Tri-Spark unusual problem
Replies
6
Views
405
Tornado
Tornado
jamesp
Tri-Spark EI and coil testing
2 3
Replies
46
Views
2,191
concours
concours
The yaki
Tri spark timing again !
2
Replies
23
Views
1,104
The yaki
The yaki
WEM
No spark
Replies
11
Views
517
concours
concours
Schwany
Tri-Spark bites the dust two years in
2 3 4
Replies
67
Views
3,358
Schwany
Schwany
Back
Top