Tranny issue

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All of a sudden, I'm having trouble about 20% of the time shifting back down into first. It requires a lot of pressure on the shift lever and sometime won't even go in then without going up the range and fiddling and then begrudgingly in. The other 80% of the time it slips right back in. The Commando is a '73 Mk I 850. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Y-C

Suggest slipping the primary cover and give a clutch a service .. (strip down and wash plates ~ )

I have found that a regular service improves overall gear change and ease of operations..

(I should really just get that clutch push rod kit ~ )

It not as if this is a huge job..~ with potentially big rewards~ 8)
 
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Thanks Stuart. What do you mean when you say, "(I should really just get that clutch push rod kit ~ )?"
 
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I believe Stuart is refering to this;

Go to http://atlanticgreen.com/store.htm

Then scroll down to "COMMANDO clutch rod seal."

One of the reasons for sticking clutch plates, which can cause difficulty selecting neutral at standstill, is due to oil from the gearbox coming down the pushrod hole, and contaminating the clutch plates, making them stick together. This oil seal, stops / significantly reduces the amount of oil that get on to the clutch plates, and then stops the problem from occuring. You say that your problem is shifting down to first, so I am not sure if sticking clutch plates will be your problem :?:

I have had a clutch rod seal fitted to my Norton for two years now, and have not had to look at the clutch at all. :D
 

Hortons Norton

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There is a kit that seals the push rod so gear oil does not enter the chain case, As this will cause the plates to stick a bit. I am looking for one myself for a bike I am building. It goes on the end of the mainshaft, Anyone know where to buy it? Thanks, Chuck. :D
 
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I have been chasing the same problem for a while on my wifes MK111.
Washed out the clutch several times, but never really getting it perfect. I have no pushrod seal fitted but the problem is there immediately after cleaning out.

Last weekend I stripped it out again & discovered 2 of the plain plates are warped. Found 2 used, but serviceable ones, in the junk box. Lo & behold, it is now really good.

I shall now see how often it gets contaminated with gear oil & then maybe fit a seal.

Remember, these bikes were never origonally fitted with any of these modern gizmo's, clutch seals, steering dampers, electronic ignitions, superblend gearbox bearings etc, so, whilst they may be an improvement over the standard arrangement, they are not compulsary for the bike to function very satisfactorially!

Bob.
 
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Another possibility is a tight primary chain. Too tight and finding first gear becomes difficult. Did you recently adjust yours? Might check it whether you did or not.
 
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I have the same problem on my 850, although not just first gear. I'd better go into the primary and have a look. I need to install the alternator anyway (currently running total loss) so I guess now's the time.

Debby
 
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Too much oil in the engine, not enough in the gearbox.

For fear of stating the obvious... have you checked your gearbox oil level?:)

I only suggest this as a while back I was experiencing stiff shifting, it got worse as the bike got hot, well sometimes.

I have been using Redline this season and got used to a red drop or two under the bike. The level was only about a 1/4" away from the level hole (it is on a slope so I didn't think it was that low.) I had visions of washing clutch plates in gas, adjusting tension, disintegrating bushes etc. So I decided to top up my gear box frist.

Well miracles of miracles - my bike shifted smooth as silk afterward.
Lesson learned. :roll:
 
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Thanks fastback but with my bike proped up level my gearbox is full of Redline MTL up to the fill level hole. I had hoped that what it was but it wasn't.
 
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Norvil motorcycle company sells the seal under part number; 068833 it costs over 20 Pounds Sterling, which is outrageous for what is basically a nut with an O-ring inside, however it works and I will continue to fit them on any future Commando projects.
 
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RGM do a special nut fitted with a small lip seal for £13.
Cash
 
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My final and primary chains are the correct tension. A local Norton guy told me that I might try a half a turn on the clutch rod adjuster screw before I started taking things apart. At this stage, I have a couple of questions. While this bike ran fine for the year or so that I have had it, the clutch cable at the lever was at the end of its adjustment. The adjusting nut was at the end of the threaded portion. In other words, there was no threaded portion to go into the lever. Before doing any adjusting of the clutch screw, if the clutch lever was held on, the kickstart would kick free. After I adjusted the clutch screw (the one with the lock nut through the primary case hole) according to the manual, the kickstart would not kick free with the clutch lever pulled on so I adjusted the screw in until it did kick free. Does this all mean that my clutches are worn past adjustment or should I turn the screw in further (say a half a turn at at time) to see if it remedies my problem of not wanting to go into first gear.
 
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