Tools?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
341
Hello,
I have started to dismantle my bike, more about it here: interstate-restoration-t7713.html

I have read in the workshop manual about special tools needed to get the job done, like a clutch diaphragm tool and many others. Which tools are absolutely needed to do the work? Because unfortunately I have found that a quote for all of the tools is over $500.

Also, about $150 of that comes from the Roller Bearing Race Extractor. Ideally I would like to do without this tool and it's large price tag. But if it is needed I can buy it.

Thanks,
Matt
 
AS for diaphram tool. A 4" PVC cap and allen bolt does the job for me. Drilled a hole in the center of the cap, bolt through the cent to clutch, and bingo. no problems, extract the retaining ring and back off the bolt. Works like a champ.
 
The bolt is 1/2 X 20 (UNF). I used a burned out 5-inch hole saw for mine, I just put the teeth on the belt sander to knock down the tips. The PVC cap sounds like a good idea too, if you don't happen to have a large burned out hole saw laying around.

As for other tools, there are lots of different tricks to be found in various threads here for making rocker shaft pullers and various other specialty tools. Personally I think that is half the fun. As for the bearing puller, I assume you are referring to getting the bearings off the crank. It is funny how things go, there was quite a while when people stopped working on their own cars that stuff like that could be found at flea markets and junk shops for a few bucks. I don't know if that is true any longer, but I wouldn't run out and buy one unless you plan to do a lot of rebuilds. I have in my collection of junk a tool that looks like an offset cold chisel but is flat on one side. It makes a perfect gasket scraper, but also drives behind bearings easily. I don't have a clue where to find one, or even what it is called but a trip to Harbor Freight or similar store might find you one. A flat bar used for carpenrtry work (Wonderbar, etc) would probably work. You could modify the end to be flat on the back side by grinding or on a belt sander. They are made from pretty good steel, so try not to ruin the temper by overheating it. I think, but would have to verify that it is wide enough that you could even grind out the center to span across the crank. And of course there are forks made just for that available from places like NAPA. They are a fork shaped into an incline plane welded to the end of a steel rod so they can be driven beind bearing races.

My opinion is to keep the cost of the tools down, use your creative talents to find solutions and keep your eyes open for good deals on used stuff that will improve your shop. Of course there also might be someplace near you that rents that kind of stuff, which isn't a bad way to go on expensive tools that you only need for an hour or so.


Russ
 
The only tool you will really need is a pinion gear extractor, and you can probably find someone here that will loan or lease you one. You can get the bearing off the crank with a flat sided chisel, I did, but be real careful. There is a lip on the crank you can't see with the bearing on and I kinda beat up the edge of mine, so you don't want to use a real sharp chisel. The bearing will be ruined. You can probably find the correct puller from someone here or a local machine shop, that would be better. Don't beat out the valve guides if you don't know what you are doing. Send it out to have new ones put on. Make your own clutch tool, it's easy like above. I think that's about it. Be patient and don't beat things to death.

Dave
69S
 
lrutt said:
AS for diaphram tool. A 4" PVC cap and allen bolt does the job for me. Drilled a hole in the center of the cap, bolt through the cent to clutch, and bingo. no problems, extract the retaining ring and back off the bolt. Works like a champ.

Here is the one I made. The hardest part is finding the center bolt that is fully threaded. I resorted to a 3 foot section of threaded rod.

Tools?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top