tire changer machiner

I think I'm in love with another device. Here's one I stumbled on and seems cost effective compared to others, but not well aware yet what's out there.
Open site tag free video and tire changing basics to see how the Classic works a treat! Basic model would do me, ~$400 w/o the balancer.

http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/1

check out advrider http://www.advrider.com/forums/, there has been much discussion there on the various tire changers....and it is a great MC website anyway

I am buying a nomar. I saw them in action at an MC show last year and was sold. Nice for a manual changer.

I have a cheap Harbor Freight manual tire changer with the motorcycle wheel adapter. It works reasonably well. Not up to professional shop standards, but at least I can change tires standing up now.

The Nomar looks to be better quality than the HF.

Ken

No experience with any of them, but may soon with the cheaper No-Mar version - branded as CycleHill. ADv Rider speaks of them both.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT

This is a great deal on a new machine. Way cheaper than HF. If I only had the justification for it. I have 2 tires to mount now, but....

His web site is less ebay fees and he has free shipping (with some restrictions).

http://www.derekweaver.com/update/W-M80 ... aspx?id=45

Hobot,

We have one mounted in our garage and it works great ... for a manual unit.
My son buys and sells used race tires and the unit gets a lot of use.
Make sure it is securely mounted to the floor and use plenty of lubricant.

Scott

Alrighty kickerstarter. I just didn't know what's affordable and pleasing to use. NoMare seemed pretty right to me and wallet. Wonder if it'd be worth while or just fun to have a mobile side car version to roll up and down pits lanes labor saver.
I will talk to my tool/die trail bike guy to maybe go in with me and keep it at his shop. People bring him tires and small bike and ATV repair as a machinist side line/hobby. All he has is a tire stand now. Could have hitch receiver mounted on a shop floor plate to get it off easy for mobile use too.

Only takes one slip of tool to mar the rim. I usually get at least one per tire on and one per tire on. Peel rear rim has evidence of 5 changes last 4 months. Will have to sand off the Excell on one side to get looking new again, sorta. But also don't want to stain area with sweat swearing and blood.

I have friends who have both and the ones with the Harbor Freight model wish they had shelled out the extra bux for the Nomar. Most have had to purchase the Nomar lever to make the HF changer work at all. The Nomar is made about 20 minutes from here and the HF is made in China.

I made one out of a 13" car wheel.

A steel plate is bolted to the wheel's center. Out of the center of that steel plate rises a 15" piece of 1/2" "all rod"
Two bolts go through the lug nut holes and into my wooden work bench; lug nuts welded to washers spin onto those two bolts to hold it .
A split piece of 5/8" heater hose is glued/taped to the rim of the car wheel - to protect the MC rim.
Works great. To protect the rims from my tire irons, I cut up old milk bottles to get pieces of plastic rim protector material.

As for breaking beads, I bought a Harbor Freight unit; it works fine.
As for balancing and trueing, same deal - Harbor Freight unit is fine.

Neat car wheel base. But I want to eliminate the lever tooling so just need to add the roll around bead remover installer gizmo. Wonder if roll lever will work with a Tubliss beat locker installed. They only show the cave man method.

Hobot,
The Nomar works pretty well but it sometimes takes quite a bit of grunt on the pry bar to get the bead over the rim.
Because the steel that the mounting plate is made of is thinner than it should be it needs to be securely fastened at all 4 corners. We had it mounted to a trailer and we had to fish plate it with a couple of pieces of plate steel to get it rigid enough. Works great anchored to the concrete floor in the garage.
I haven't used it on a Norton wheel yet but I'm sure it will work fine.

xbacksideslider,
I like your set up ... sure beats chasing the wheel around the garage floor.

Scott

Ok, beefing up support is straight forward cheap. About half my tire to rim combos are terrific fight that chips rim and bead. I got tired of fight to take off used up tires on my modern by levers so modified a hook billed heavy duty cable cuter and a heavy duty bolt cutter and slice em straight across the width. On special Peel I want to change tire for various terrain so want to not tear up me or still good tires when switching back. There are big sand dune fields about 6 hr ride from hear and real race tract about 4 hrs. Jaw dropping ATV trails are on my regular paths. I don't want to re make another special rear wheel. But to ride m/c to wild surfaces I guess I'll have to keep levers with me a long time. But maybe could take off a rear loop strut and use a lever to roll the fancy bead tool around em using the other loop strut and center bar by jamming it in the ground. Likely just bend them up though ugh.

A buddy has a Nomar changer he uses for his modern mag wheel tubeless types. I took a steel triumph wheel over and it took a fair amount of time to get the nylon blocks at the right angle to secure my wheel. The narrower lip steel rims are tougher to tighten down securely . But it can be done.

Tim_S

Greetings,
I'll throw in my tire changer experience. I worked at the local Honda shop for many years, we used a "Coats" tire machine similar to the "Nomar" unit. That machine has changed thousands of tires and is still being used. When the shop was moved to another location we didn't bother to anchor it to the floor at the new shop to keep it semi portable, we mounted it on one end of a half sheet of heavy plywood. As long as you are standing on the plywood you can pull on the lever all you need.
At the new shop the boss decided to purchase a Harbor Freight air/electric tire machine (similar to the "Weaver" machine, links in previous posts). At the time it was about $1000usd, considering that the manual "Coats" machine was selling for $700usd at the time the Harbor Freight machine was quite a deal. Well its been there for more than 10 years now and has needed a few repairs (pedal valve and electric motor replacement), but considering that it gets the hell rammed out of it in almost daily commercial use it has proved to be a sound machine. It would certainly last Joe homeowner or a small shop a life time.

GB

hobot said:

Neat car wheel base. But I want to eliminate the lever tooling so just need to add the roll around bead remover installer gizmo. Wonder if roll lever will work with a Tubliss beat locker installed. They only show the cave man method.

Click to expand...

Ah heck, save yourself some dough; your not in the business of changing tires. I went to the local import junk yard and asked for a car wheel, the guy dug one out and then said "oh, shoot, it's bent" and I said, "that's OK, what do ya want fer it?" He said "nothin" I said "deal."

It's all about technique anyway. If I EVER start sweating or finding myself using muscles to change a tire, I stop, and ask, what am I doing wrong? So what do you need a fancy a** changer for?

Well good news and bad news, the good news is because I stuck with WM3 size rim I can fit the Tubliss sealer bead clamp'r, bad news is its taboo to use the roll off machine on these. So back to old car wheel/tire base and extra long and expensive tire hook levers I've seen at tire shops. I'm so done with spoon types on the tight fit I face too often both on Peel spokes and SuVee's cast fat wheels, plus mower and tactor fronts. I just plug car tires till rip type holes need inside patches a shop does for me. What's the threshold to claim in tire changing business? Once or more a season? If so then I'm unpaid worker. A 130 will fit on 2.15" rim but just barely.