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so whats the answer to the problem of the oil seal in the timing cover shitting itself. Has anyone had the problem and how did they know they had a problem.
Dereck
Dereck
timing side oil seal shits itself (2014)
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Not sure if this is what you are after but anyway there should be a small hole in the timing cover cap which the oil leaks out of when the seal fails (unless the outer cap is fitted upside down) letting you know you have a problem that is not really a biggy just annoying to start with
Replacing the seal is simple but you need the correct tool when sliding the timing cover back on or otherwise you will damage the new seal meaning you will have it leaking again. There is no getting around that unless you make your own tool if you have the equipment
While your at it you should check/service the oil pump and camshaft chain
Unless your shaft it out of true which is not such an easy fix
Jed
Replacing the seal is simple but you need the correct tool when sliding the timing cover back on or otherwise you will damage the new seal meaning you will have it leaking again. There is no getting around that unless you make your own tool if you have the equipment
While your at it you should check/service the oil pump and camshaft chain
Unless your shaft it out of true which is not such an easy fix
Jed
In the early days I fitted a seal from Norvil which was thinwall. It was not the totally rubber encased type now usually supplied. In addition I was recommended straight 50 oil. Trying to start in low temps split the seal wall. I only discovered it when the cover was pulled off for another reason. No rattles or obvious stress but doubtless that would have come. Having the OP valve fully stacked with washers by the PO probably didnt help.
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JimNH said:
Yes I was talking about the crank seal.
Maybe its time to fit an OP guage. Where do you get the longer banjo bolts from to bolt to the O.P. exit in the timing cover. I like the original oil lines for supply to the rockers a well. Wouldn't use stainless file material.
Dereck
Here's where I found the double banjo bolt:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banjo-Bolt-Doub ... a4&vxp=mtr
I bought a pre-made hose from these guys with a banjo fitting on one end and an AN 3 on the other.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/
I've read about guys having problems with SS hoses sawing through things but I've not had the problem. Nowhere are my rocker oil lines or the gauge line abrading anything. I think if you're careful routing them there should be no problem.
I put the double bolt and line on the left side of the head with maybe a 30" hose. I started to make a nice bracket and ended up ty-rapping it to the handle bar. Maybe this winter I'll make something more elegant.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banjo-Bolt-Doub ... a4&vxp=mtr
I bought a pre-made hose from these guys with a banjo fitting on one end and an AN 3 on the other.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/
I've read about guys having problems with SS hoses sawing through things but I've not had the problem. Nowhere are my rocker oil lines or the gauge line abrading anything. I think if you're careful routing them there should be no problem.
I put the double bolt and line on the left side of the head with maybe a 30" hose. I started to make a nice bracket and ended up ty-rapping it to the handle bar. Maybe this winter I'll make something more elegant.
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Thanks for that Jim. I suppose if your stainless hoses are all mounted securely so they cant rub, then that a would be ideal. I do personally like the thin original type oil lines and the clean look they present around the head area.
Dereck
Dereck
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kerinorton said:
Dereck,
I never had the original as I bought the bike as a rolling basket case many years ago and the line was missing. I like the stainless look anyway.
Jim's method of drilling the spindles would eliminate the overhead line which seems to the source of trouble. I wonder how difficult that is?
Jim
Brooking 850
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Do you need to drill a small hole between the spindle end machined castings in the head where the spindles fit and why only the inlet spindles?
I have seen a fit up where the banjo's were fitted directly into the cover plates that keep your spindles in the head, and a a hose looped between all four.
Will get a pick next time I see that bike.
Regards Mike
I have seen a fit up where the banjo's were fitted directly into the cover plates that keep your spindles in the head, and a a hose looped between all four.
Will get a pick next time I see that bike.
Regards Mike
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Brooking 850 said:
The inlet spindles end close together in a common bore. No drilling on the head is needed. You just need to drill the passage in the spindle on through the ends -only on the inlet spindles. The feed from one side will then feed all four spindles. Jim
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needing said:comnoz said:
This does not provide an improvement to function but may 'look nice'.
The original system provides 'cool' oil to each of the rocker spindles from an equal distance.
Worst case:
A single inlet spindle entry means that the oil is heating as it progresses through the other inlet spindle, through the head gallery until it arrives at exhaust rocker spindle diagonal to the oil inlet spindle. This is the one now most likely to fail through overheating
It looks to me like the left side is farther away than the right side. It has to travel all the way over the head through the overhead line. Drilling the spindle ends makes it closer -actually.
Not that it makes any difference.....Jim
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needing said:comnoz said:
Perhaps I haven't explained myself re your routing. Please compare this picture to the previous.
The mod now routes the oil entirely through the head so the LH exhaust spindle is feed 'much hotter' oil than the others and is therefore disadvantaged. Why / How is this an 'improvement'?
"...Not that it makes any difference..." so why bother?
I bother because it gives me a single banjo on each side of the head and an easy way to connect an oil pressure gauge.
Plus I would rather not have an oil line crossing over the top of the head which can be hard to route without touching things it shouldn't touch.
There is no other advantage or disadvantage that I know of.
I do feed the oil into the left hand side of the head as it is a known fact that the left cylinder tends to run slightly hotter than the right. Maybe because the crank is fed on the right side -I don't know.
I do know that the drilled spindle modification has been around for a long time -It's not my idea. But I have always done it both on my racebikes and my streetbikes and and a lot of other peoples bikes and never seen any bad consequences because of it. Jim
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