Timing Question

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"Jumping the kill switch out of the loop ( did it in the big connector under the tank)"
That's what I have in mind to do. Would you elaborate on that some. For a dummy :?

Thanks,
Norton Larry
 
lwmcd1 said:
"Jumping the kill switch out of the loop ( did it in the big connector under the tank)"
That's what I have in mind to do. Would you elaborate on that some. For a dummy :?

Thanks,
Norton Larry

I think he is speaking of the killswitch or cutout on the right hand switchgear on the MKIII. I think this is a normally closed operation switch which adds another place for fault (the weakest link) if the contacts are not perfect. A rather common issue.
 
Lindy said:
Thanks for the replies,

The plugs are new NGS BP7ES and it did the same thing with the old plugs so I think they are good. I did check the plug wires as well, they are the same vintage as the ignition 3.5 years old also from CNW and both were 5100 ohms which I think is correct as they are about a foot long. Will try running in the dark tonight. Is there any other way of testing the Tri-Spark? I might try running power directly to it tonight, failing that I'm running out of ideas.

Kerinorton - The timing light I was using has a clip that wraps around the lead, just don't know how to interpret the results, will try it again tonight as well. No Brit bike mechanics around here, not sure if the local Harley or Honda guys will even look at it, but I guess it doesn't hurt to ask.

Trevor
if you are not riding hard, use BP6ES OR BP6EY. If you are even a more slower rider, use BP5ES
 
Lindy said:
My bike was running pretty good up until a week ago when it started backfiring/missing. I have been following Guido's Tri-Spark post and have been doing most of what people have suggested to him. At first I thought it was a carb issue but have had them off three times, cleaned set (dual Amals with new needles, needle jets, stay up floats, viton) changed balance tube, exhaust nuts tight, spayed for air leaks etc. so moved on to other things. Compression test 150 per side, valves set, new plugs, battery good 12.87 volts off 14.4 when running, gone through wiring, jumpered ignition to bypass switch, cleaned kill and other switches, checked fuel flow…

Tonight I tired to check the timing, I have a Tri-Spark with CNW single coil conversion. I have no experience with timing anything, but borrowed a light off a friend of my Dad and gave it a go. I know it's hard to see in the video, but the white mark on the stator is 28 BTDC. As the bike revs it appears the timing mark is getting to where it needs to be, however, you can hear the backfiring and see the light go out and take a second to get back into sync. I'm not sure how to read what is going on, is the light is just not working correctly (it looks older that the bike) or is this pointing to my problem?

The Tri-Spark is 3.5 years old. Most of what I've read is of Tri-Sparks just going flat then working after a few minutes, has anyone had one just go haywire?

Any suggestion?

Thanks
Trevor


I can hear the loose primary chain as well as see it here. I hear the miss as well as see it result with the timing light. ensure you have a good earth connection, and if it runs well with the power straight fron the battery to the ignition, maybe it time to fit a new switch or a relay. I have never had the opportunity to use the kill switch so that may an unnecessary evil, unless you want to run it via a 5 pin relay where you have a power off option. that 5 pin relay works really well as an ign warning light assimilator as well.
Timing Question
 
I take it pretty easy on the bike, so might try a hotter plug as suggested once I get up and running again. The coil measured high in resistance so have one on order, hope that is the issue.
 
Check the two thin wires that come out the tunnel on the back side of the points/ignition cavity. They tend to abrade there. I have run across this a few times. It can cause the symptoms you describe.
 
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