timing cover - STUCK

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Apr 15, 2004
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Well, I did my own little oopsie. I want to open up the timing chest so I can service the oil pump (lap it in or replace?) to hopefully improve the wetsumping and low oil pressure problems.

But - the last time in, I used Three Bond on the gasket. I was worried about leaks. It hasn't been leaking but now it won't come off. I've been tapping away with a rubber hammer but to no avail. It might as well be welded on :?

Any suggestions for getting the cover loose? I don't really see any way to hook up a puller or anything.

I guess next time I'll just use grease on the gasket...

thanks,
Debby
 
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Mar 19, 2005
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Saw on a TV program, that even some "permant" Loctite products can be taken apart under heat......might want to try with a hot motor...after a good run. If the problem was wet sumping, servicing the oil pump can wait until you have all other projects done, run the bike, and THEN try to do the oil pump. But maybe someone else has a better idea....just don't go wacky with a hammer. Do more damage than good, if it's so stuck on......
 
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May 8, 2005
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Stanley knife blades carefully tapped in the gasket around the cover will help and not cause any damage if you are carefull. Also the joint face on right hand side of the cover by the points housing there is a small area which is not covered by the gasket where you can carefully lever which will not cause any damage to the mating surface, once started some taps with your rubber hammer should have it off. A non setting sealer like hylomar is all that is required and will come off easier next time.
regards
 
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Jun 14, 2003
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Deb,

The timing cover gasket is relatively thick, which allows room for inserting thin, sharp wedges. As snakehips suggested, a Stanley knife blade might work. Or, I’ve often used a straight edge razor blade. A razor blade can be carefully and gently tapped into the center of the gasket, effectively wedging the cover away from the block. A really stuck cover may require two or more razor blades wedged in the same general area, say around the upper right corner by the points cover.

Jason
 
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I got the cover off. I applied pressure behind the relief valve housing :shock: in a gentle-but-firm manner and it finally came loose. I didn't even break anything :p

No obvious problems inside, no blown seals or anything. But oil is leaking out out through the pump, out the outlet at a pretty fair drip. I think it's time to rebuild or replace the pump. I'm more inclined to replace...

Debby
 
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May 7, 2005
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Debby, just check where the oil is coming out, if it is on the left 1/2 way down this is before the pump and is a direct feed from the oil tank, the pump leak is at only viewable at the big ends.

On to the pump as you are in there anyway. Unless you find broken teeth and great gouges out of the body do not waste money on a new pump, it will be just as bad in 10k miles on the leak front. What you will normally find when you open it up is perfect looking teeth and body, the leak comes from the scoring on the top and bottom plates which allows the oil to leak past the sides of the gears, smooth them on emery paper on plate glass or another really flat surface and then rebuild the pump.

Next rebuild the pump and see how easy it is to spin by hand using the gear on the top, if it is real easy then the gears have too much clearance, undo the pump and take the body and rub it on the emery cloth as per the end plates, then rebuild and check by spinning the gear, only take a small amount off the body, rebuild the pump as many times as it takes to get a nice easy but stiff spin, use oil when you are checking.

Now take the pump apart again and clean it out even if you have doen it before. Rebuild and check to make sure that with oil in the pump you can just turn it by hand and then refit it. The wet sumping will be much reduced, just costs 2/3 hrs work and think of those arm muscles :p .
 
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Jul 18, 2005
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Hi Deb
Great to hear that you were successful getting the cover off . Really does sound like you just need to lap the cover plates in. This should bring the pump right back to new and your wet sumping will certainly be reduced. The mating surfaces of the engine and timing cover are usually pretty straight so my suggestion would be to just install a new gasket ( dry ) and you should have no further problems.

Cheers
 
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