Tickler question

Hey all,

My right carb is missing the Tickler....I think? should both carbs have a tickler? If so can I replace the tickler or do I need to get another carb. The right carb is running VERY rich, and I have fuel running out of the back of the carb, could the missing tickler cause this problem. I checked the float level with the bowl off the carb and it seems to stop at the correct level, but when I install the bowl it overflows. I also checked the bowl gasket for and interference, but everything seems ok. Thanks!

Yes both carbs should have a tickler.
The tickler assembly is available.
Might be a good idea to buy a couple of new float needles as well? Check that fuel isn't leaking into the float (I have had that happen!).

The lower part of the tickler is probably still present, holding the float down. Good opportunity to upgrade to the new tickler units with the extended buttons. No more gas on your fingers!

I looked at a Mk 3 recently that one of our club members was selling. Took three of us, and 30 or 40 kicks, to get the "rebuilt motor" to fire up. Once it did, we noticed gas pouring out of the right carb. Same thing, the tickler had come apart. I passed on the bike. It had enough issues to do any ebay huckster proud and he wanted a lot of money for it. Plus it was a Mk 3. I prefer my Nortons with traditional right-side shifting! And no foo-foo e-start.

You'll probably find lots of other things wrong with those carbs too...

Debby

Hello All,

I have replaced both needles and the float is not leaking, but the WHOLE tickler is missing...There is nothing but a hole going into the float chamber. The left side tickler looks like a spring loaded plunger with a small hole drilled into it is this the new style?

This is the tickler assembly available now-with the extended button:http://raskcycle.com/parts/carbp/622-172.jpg

That looks like what I have on the left carb. I assume the long split pin is cut to length once assembled?

I'm not sure you need to cut the pin down, the lower end is slightly splayed to hold the assembly in position in the carb body?

Triple John,
Once you buy the new tickler assembly the split pin all roll pin thingy is pushed into the button with the card and return spring between, Now the trick is to push it in the right amount, too far and you will wait forever for fuel to flood up. If the carb with the tickler floods up after a second or so of depressing the lenght is right, so just measure the extended lenght of the splayed roll pin part, that touches the float and make the left the same. Might pay to check your float levels aswell. This is done dry with the float assembled and the bowl in normal postion removed from the carb. Gently depress the float tang that contacts the needle valve until it just seats, then measure on the opposite side of the float the distance the float is below the float bowl gasket surface. This should be nominally 2mm (80thou). If this needs resetting, you need to move the little brass seat that the needle sits in, within the float bowl. check out some Amal links off this site for the ful dope.

HTH

im from australia and have two standard amal 930 carbs if you need them and are willing to sell them if you are interested make me an offer.