The new toy that Windy makes.

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hopefully you will have a good day so you can ride it and tell me what you think than. I will call you about info on camping at the rally. looks like a few of the group from tenn. along with me will be comming up.

Hyme joint headsteady


Can you explain a little how this works and what's the improvement over a stock box section 850 headsteady? The hyme joint allows movement in the verticle plane only? What's the cost? Does it fit under a fiberglass roadster tank (the Norvil iso head steady does not).

Well let's see it's lighter, Stonger, longer lasting. Requires no mantinance like the old one. It's very free to move up and down and the side to side movment would have to be clicked in with an indicator it's not perceptible. It's also easy to adjust to your machine remember that the main effect is felt at the rear tire contact patch. And the best it transfers no vibes the rubber below will still do that. Takes less room than other setups. Price is between you and and Bill I found it right in there. norbsa
RGM in the uk sell Dave Taylors rod link headsteady. I have one on my Commando, they sell as a kit with or without the Mk3 suspendory spring which you adjust to tune out the low frequency shakes (well minimise them anyway). Nicely made bit of kit think it was around the £70 mark. Gives you lots more room under the tank also. Far superior to those horrible vibratory Norvil Iso ones.
Just fitted one of the RGM Dave Taylor headsteadys over the last couple of days. Had to have two goes, fit once, the clamp is slightly oversized for my frame tube. Tried shimming but shims worked loose after one short ride. Pull apart, reface the two halves of the clamp and now a tight fit. Only a couple of hours riding so far but no more flying hinge when hitting bumps in the corners.
Very nice!
Hello friends,
I have been reading and learning for years from you all, but I have rarely had anything to contribute. Windy’s very nice head-steady is an exception.

I made something similar last year from a 2.5x3 block of aluminum drilled 1.5 dia and then sawed in half, and a piece of 3/8 aluminum angle. I bought two rod-end bearings from WW Granger, drilled and tapped the block 3/4-10 and put it all together. The job can be done with a drill press, hacksaw, files, and patience. Measure and make a sketch first. It took some fiddling to get it to fit under my steel roadster tank, but it was all worthwhile. It looks pretty nice too.

I figured a frame tube fix that clamped the tube rather than using the existing taped holes would be stronger, and transmit fewer stresses to a fairly flimsy part of the frame.

I have had my ‘71 Roadster for 22 years, and this was the best modification ever--better even than fixing the swingarm pivot with welded nuts, allen head set screws and jam nuts. Also better than e-ignition or sleeved carbs.

Along with a fixed swing arm and vernier isos, the machine now handles as well as any English bike I have ever ridden. The head steady was transformative. You end up with a Commando that begs to be flicked around corners. It vibrates a bit more at low revs, and it squirrels around a lot more in rain grooves, but this is a small price to pay.

Cheers and thanks for the help!
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