The Keith1069 Headsteady

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DogT said:
swooshdave,

Where did you get that piece of AL angle? Or did I miss it somewhere in this thread?

Dave
69S
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First post. Metal Supermarket. Online price was quoted at $15, walk-in price was $10. This was for 18in and the online store may have rounded up to 24in price. Dunno, didn't ask.

With my superb cutting skills I needed all the extra I could get... :|
 
I found that the local recycling center has an amazing selection of aluminum angle, channel and sheet for ridiculously cheap.
 
Looking good. Next you have to modify for the spring assist! I'm thinking about that but will have to relocate and rewire the electronic warning light assimilator.
 
Keith1069 said:
Looking good. Next you have to modify for the spring assist! I'm thinking about that but will have to relocate and rewire the electronic warning light assimilator.
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I'm thinking about that. How will that install?
 
I'm thinking a piece of 2" x 1.5" channel would provide the front mount for the spring bolt anchor. If the head mounting holes are in the same place the dimension from these to the front of the channel is close to a std Mk3 steady. May have to go up on the section to 1/4" for strength although there should not be any bending just a straight pull on the 1/4" bolts. The rest should follow. However I have the assimilator between the coils so that would get in the way. Also I have an unknown year short coil brkt and I don't know if that will clear the spring hanger brkt.
 
The Keith1069 Headsteady


So, I accidently ordered a 5/16 set of rod ends. Someone previously mentioned those might actually be sufficent. What says the viewing public? 3/8 or 5/16th?

Ride it until it breaks?
 
swooshdave said:
The Keith1069 Headsteady


So, I accidently ordered a 5/16 set of rod ends. Someone previously mentioned those might actually be sufficent. What says the viewing public? 3/8 or 5/16th?

Ride it until it breaks?
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Dave Taylor's set comes with 5/16 rod ends, so I guess it's ok. But I prefer the 3/8 rod ends.
 
swooshdave said:
Meh, good enough for me. On she goes. :mrgreen: Thanks!
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Except you allready have a 3/8 bolt in the hole :?: , I used 3/8 but would use 5/16 next time,
 
splatt said:
swooshdave said:
Meh, good enough for me. On she goes. :mrgreen: Thanks!
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Except you allready have a 3/8 bolt in the hole :?: , I used 3/8 but would use 5/16 next time,
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Except I somehow spaced that too and drilled for... 5/16. :mrgreen: I'm so good.

The Keith1069 Headsteady

The Keith1069 Headsteady


The Keith1069 Headsteady

So I have a gap here and it could theoretically allow the top mount to rotate. I'm thinking about putting another plate in there. It would rest against the frame and not allow it to move. Next time I'll get the hole right.


The Keith1069 Headsteady

Couple 5/16-24x1 1/2 bolts and I'm going to try to use spacers instead of extra nuts and I think I'll have it.


The Keith1069 Headsteady

I've sketched out where I think I need to cut. I'm borrowing my cousin's band saw this weekend. Purty things up a bit and then sandblast and be done. :mrgreen:

So far I'm out $10-ish for the rod ends from McMaster and $10 for the aluminum angle. Plus miscellaneous for the nuts and bolts. Might hit $30 when I'm all done.
 
Jeandr said:
Don't you find it satisfying NOT spending money :?:

Jean
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Actually it's not the NOT spending of money, it's just means I have more money to spend on the other parts I really need.

In the end I still won't have any money but I might have a more complete bike... :mrgreen:
 
Keith,
Don't forget up on the head the motor can move back and fore by a good 1/2" when you take the bike off and on the center stand.
It's looking good.

Cash
 
It's getting there. That's why I made a rough old steel one first to see if it was any good and to get the dimensions right without a full drawing of the installation. I don't like the long bolts but I don't think there's enough force during cornering to overload them.....but without proper stress analysis it is suck it and see!! Lowering the top mount would be better.
Keith,
Don't forget up on the head the motor can move back and fore by a good 1/2" when you take the bike off and on the center stand.
It's looking good.
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Yes mine moves about a 1/4" which is why I had to keep removing material to clear the nut on the vertical bolt. It would tap away on the lower mount at low revs.
 
ludwig said:
Keith1069 said:
...I don't think there's enough force during cornering to overload them.....
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You think or you hope ??
If it ever let go it will be at the worst possible moment .
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Even if it does break the bike won't fall over. Might get uncomfortable but it's not like the bike will collapse upon itself.
 
ludwig said:
swooshdave said:
.. Might get uncomfortable but it's not like the bike will collapse upon itself.
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If that bolt breaks in a fast corner it will definitely get uncomfortable !
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With the front and rear iso set correctly and no headsteady, just how much movement is actually possible at the top of the engine from side to side? I suspect that a majority of the side load on the front of the engine being acted upon by the swingarm is contained by the front iso. Am I way off?
 
I don't like the long bolts but I don't think there's enough force during cornering to overload them
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Use spacers to support the bolts to help put them in pure shear, it'll take a couple of ton to bust them.

Cash
 
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