The FREE Norton from ED in NH

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Matt, not to be rude, but most of the 'motor' nuts and bolts are Whitworth. I seem to get by with a couple of 5/16 W, 1/4 W, 3/16 W, and 1/8 W open end spanners. And of course one will need a 5/16BS/1/4W socket, and the 1/4 W ring spanner for the head and cylinder nuts and bolts in a 3/8 drive so it will go in. 14mm is real close, but you will probably strip the corners off the 1/4 Whitworth bolts, so better to get the right ones.

Most of the rest of the nuts and bolts are accessible with UNF/UNC, but were probably originally BSW, with a lot of the same across the flat dimensions and even the threads fit if the correct pitch, just a slightly different angle to the threads. Metric wrenches don't do much, but if you can find a 15/16" socket and a 1 1/2" socket, they fit on a lot of things like the wheel spindle nuts, the crank case drive side nut, the sump bolt, the drive sprocket nut. 6 point sockets help too. 2BA is real close to 10-32 and can be re-threaded with a 10-32 tap unless you are a stickler for detail.

That's been my experience. Of course there are purists out there. I'm a cheapskate and admit it.

Dave
69S
 
Dave,
Yes, I agree the motor nuts and bolts are definitely much easier handled with Whitworth, as is the rest of the bike. But I, like you, find that Whitworth his not as important for the rest of the bike, I just thought Whitworth spanners would save him time and some agony. But no, they are not needed.
 
Whitworth is definitely needed for the crank nuts and bolts and the head and cylinder. No substitute there will do unless you want to mess up.

Dave
69S
 
Rob the 69-70 rear guard has a recess on the right side to allow clearance for a tyre pump [it looks like a dent] and i beleive it to be a slightly different shape to later models, i was just pointing it out to you so you did not dispose of it and regret it later.
enjoy your rebuild Al
 
Actually a cheapo pair of Japan made Wrenches Fit with no problems on the Lower Jug Bolts.. Probably because they aren't the most accurate things on the planet.. a 14mm is more of a 14.3mm and when 12-point ones were used they fit even better.. grinding them thinner around the edges to get them into the close areas didn't hurt my feelings any.. But yes when it comes to putting it together were going to need the correct ones to Torque everything down.. and I used some direct heat to get the visible nuts off without much struggle.. on the base-bolts a large locking adjustable wrench got them off.. not like they are small or deep in any holes eh?.. :shock: - also if you have a scrap of brass or sheet-metal to put between the jaws on a pair of vise-grips will do the trick without marring the nuts or bolts.. - I deal with crazy stuff like this all day long at Work.. Nothing NEW..

Oh and I just finished a NEW Video for you ALL who HELP me out so you can see exactly what's going ON:

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NzzO8VhKJE[/video]

Rob :mrgreen:
 
interstateOz said:
Nice find my friend u will have many many years of fun with that one, they become a member of the family :D Must feel good after waitin all those years, well done!
Click to expand...

Indeed a new addition to the Family.. and no pregnancies needed.. Whew!

Now It's about getting her PULSE back after 15 years of Mother Natures abuse..

Someone had asked how Old I am now.. the answer is 42 years (18 in my mind)
on my FIRST RIDE on the back of THIS particular Norton.. I was.. Ahem.. 17

Even If I put it away in my CARE for another 20 years and did nothing with it until a later date.. It's still mine..

Rob
 
Holy Crap! It musta had one heck of a knock if it was run like that. Can you post some stills when you get it cleaned up? I couldn't pause the video for some reason.

Check your pistons to see what bore they are, maybe they are standard or .20 over and they can be bored out for oversize pistons. Jugs with all the fins in tact are worth hanging on to. The slotted pistons used in that vintage weren't the best design and many folks replace them as a matter of coarse regardless. Jugs can be re-sleeved fairly cheaply. If there is no damage to the cases and the rods aren't bent you may only need a crank. You can put it back in the cases and check drive side and timing side shafts for runout with a dial indicator. I'd expect it is pretty wonky. Examine the big end bearings for uneven wear on the edges also.

Put an ad in the "For Sale/Wanted" section and watch ebay, cranks go pretty cheap. Jerry sold 3 or 4 in the want section a while back at very reasonable prices.
 
Quick question.. IS the counterweight on the 750 and 850 the same Unit?? Is there a casting number I should be looking for on it that will tell me the version if they are different?

I do think it was "stressed" already and I was the one who opened it up completely.. Rather have it happen NOW than when it was running.. it was in there rather tight.. but only one side was rusted.. other side was a recent break..

Rob
 
The 850 is 5 lbs heavier. Not compatible.

I doubt you could have broken it unless you were prying on it sideways with a big big bar. They usually break at 7000 plus rpms. The old style main bearings allowed the crank to distort at high rpms and under load and they flew apart. Thing is they usually came out through the cases. Yours may be a fine example of the initial state before really flying apart. Cracked like it was the balance factor would change and it would knock enough for a smart guy to shut it down. You should just watch ebay for a complete crank, they come up regularly and go for $100.00 -$150.00 give or take.
 
Rob said nothing seen scratched inside the cases, so may never really run that way. One of the worse cast iron flywheel destruction I saved post on - launched part of flywheel thru cases to fly across the street damaging a car then bounced through neighbors picture window to injure stuff inside home, while just at warm up no throttle idle sitting on stand in driveway. Some are just time bombs.
I'd suspect more ice pressure on brittle cold cast iron.

I faced similar in finding a bend crank in pre-Ms Peel so shopped around - with Everyone - to snag last of a smaller lighter real steel wheel that really was noticed in run out from under you response. Fine 600 rpm idle no problemo. Highly recommend light steel flywheel. Some can be a simple a just a disc with a lot of the counter weight for balance factor added in the cheeks closer to the bearing support for less jump roping. There is a lot of variety in Norton crank option$. Oh Yeah do check crank end run out, which is way easier if still installed in cases. Release rods from crank to deal with barrels and crank sprocket easier. Rods are over built so may be fine after a polishing.
There is an issue on some rod bolt and seats, but that another subject line.
 
So this one was shut-down for 15 years just previous to explosion.. talk about LUCK.. I was VERY gentle in taking the thing apart.. the Crack was hairline on one side and opened up about 1/8" on the other while still in position.. The case has no internal marks supporting any type of scrapes.. So that is a good thing.. Will keep looking..

EDIT:
I'm looking at this but now know it wont work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320590742904

Maybe someone can use that one for His/Her 850
 
Common upgrade for 750, beside steel vs cast iron, is up size bolts-studs to 850 size,
OR bore and mill to fit your own hi end choice. Can't conceive of engine turning any at all w/o leaving witness marks. Lucked out you did.

Has a gender come to mind?
A Nick name may arise by itself.
 
"There is an issue on some rod bolt and seats, but that another subject line."
Indeed the factor.. Always malfunctioning parts in given areas.. But we still save them from the GRAVE.. AMEN!

Cheers to anyone who even attempts this process of saving a Commando.. Being the NEW GUY I have no clue.. But I am learning as I go that of course this won't be CHEAP in any way.. But I enjoy the factor that I'ts not the norm of a Honda, Kawa, Yama.. HD..

I only know of ONE Norton in the area and I see it very rarely passing me on the road usually going in the other direction..

Next time I'll spin around and chase him down!

IF ANYONE spots a Crank for a 750 let me know please.. I will continue to make Videos as I go on restoring the little stuff with Dad and keep the Crank purchase in-mind for now..

Would really like to see her like this one day.. "Little Red Riding.. In the Hood".. :lol:
The FREE Norton from ED in NH


as opposed to her original rust:
The FREE Norton from ED in NH


What a beautiful transformation that would be!

PS: and it may be expensive but I do like the 2 into 1 Exhaust without the center-stand design..

Rob
 
Those wide high ape hangers lowered down like a rudder handle are a cornering aid.
I have long lists on vendors on a few pages of Factory manual and just start at top and ask for advise, availability and prices. Wonderful resources to know as vital life line to our hobby horses life.

Lookie here for similar inspirations on your accounting and special features.
http://www.coloradonortonworks.com/
The FREE Norton from ED in NH
 
Hobot I was on that site just last night.. amazing the goodies they make for the Norton.. So advanced is sickening! -Rob
 
Yeah amazed me back in '99 that Commandos could still get parts, then more amazed by the world wide support of owners and vendors and whiz bang innovations and accessories. But CNW is rather late comer on the support and rebuild scene so a lot more Commando supply sites to explore.
Here one I buy various performance-upgrade goodies - RGM, do order their hard copy catalog, yummy to the tummy.
http://www.rgmmotors.co.uk/categories.asp

The FREE Norton from ED in NH


The FREE Norton from ED in NH
 
New Video Hobot.. Man can that Guy TYPE! :shock:

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_v9iKUGXDm0&feature=channel[/video]

Winters coming so I figure we break it all down to nothing.. then "one piece at a time" it to Dad's House on the Weekends so we can restore all the little stuff and powder-coat/polish it accordingly..

I do LOVE the RED one seen above.. clean and dang sharp for 40 years old ! - More my style than It's original form.. Who's Bike is that? I found it elsewhere.. But MAYBE they are here??

See Video.. The Rods and Pistons are finally OUT !

PS: Is there an exploded view of the Engine anywhere that someone knows of??

Rob
 
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