Teledraulic fork rebuild

elefantrider said:
I will be assembling this bike like the prototype without a headlamp or the ears, so will remove all the parts between the triple clamps halves.
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You could go the route they did on the G85CS, fitting black plastic tubes over the fork tubes where the h/l lugs used to be. They will also reduce corrosion of the fork tubes.

-Knut
 
mdt-son said:
You could go the route they did on the G85CS, fitting black plastic tubes over the fork tubes where the h/l lugs used to be. They will also reduce corrosion of the fork tubes.

-Knut
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don't need special plastic tubes, will just wrap in large diameter shrink tube or electrical tape for old school style.
 
I would recommend no coverings on (17) exposed, new, hard chromed fork tubes. Any type coverings will promote corrosion. Husqvarna, Bultaco, Maico, Honda, Yamaha, etc never covered their exposed fork tubes for same reason.....but park outside for season and see what occurs.

Teledraulic fork rebuild
 
p400 said:
I would recommend no coverings on (17) exposed, new, hard chromed fork tubes. Any type coverings will promote corrosion. Husqvarna, Bultaco, Maico, Honda, Yamaha, etc never covered their exposed fork tubes for same reason.....but park outside for season and see what occurs.
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All fork tubes corrode eventually, whether they are chromed or not. The part which doesn't is regularly smeared by hydraulic oil or grease. So, to make fork tubes last, you need to cover those parts not wetted by the slider in grease, and reapply grease every other year (any petroleum product will decay eventually and produces acid components in this process). Parking inside may slow down the decay but accelerates the dry-out.

-Knut
 
Steve said the stops are correct, they need to fit tight, heat up in hot water and lube.

What are the bottom-left and bottom-center parts for? They look too small for anything and are not on the diagram above.
 

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Also, my forks did not have #44 (014355) on teardown. It goes where? Down the inside of the stanchion, below the threads and against the inside ridge?
 
elefantrider said:
What are the bottom-left and bottom-center parts for? They look too small for anything and are not on the diagram above.
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You have a packing list. Start eliminating those parts you know of, I think you will find out. The fork needs 6 rubber items only, 2 of which are grommets and maybe not in your kit.

-Knut
 
Parts 2,4,5 (the 6 rubber stops 016148), I can get them on the stanchion after heating up and using grease but impossible to get the spring to slide over them.


The spring just pushes the rubber down the stanchion to the leg.


The rubber does not pass the first coil of the spring. Too tight.

Has anyone actually had any luck with this, if so what is your tip, or do you leave them off altogether?
 
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elefantrider said:
Parts 2,4,5 (the 6 rubber stops 016148), I can get them on the stanchion after heating up and using grease but impossible to get the spring to slide over them. The spring just pushes the rubber down the stanchion to the leg. The rubber does not pass the first coil of the spring. Too tight.
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The first question should be, are you fitting the corrrect main springs? Were rubber buffers designed to work with offroad springs 016782? I doubt that but haven't checked.

-Knut
 
Curious now, how many peoples forks here actually HAVE the small lower rebound spring #10 on theirs? My forks do not have this.

BTW, I've found the Matchless fork seem to have decent compression dampening. It would just work a lot better if the hub assembly wasn't soooo darn heavy!
 
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mdt-son said:
All fork tubes corrode eventually, whether they are chromed or not. The part which doesn't is regularly smeared by hydraulic oil or grease. So, to make fork tubes last, you need to cover those parts not wetted by the slider in grease, and reapply grease every other year (any petroleum product will decay eventually and produces acid components in this process).

-Knut
Click to expand...

Interesting, that is why my new G80CS forks had a ton of black grease in the spring covers! Coming from chrome stanchions on the Commando, grease here on the stanchions is new to me.

Haven't decided yet which grease/oil to use. Probably whatever grease is light in color so as to see when it gets dirty.
In the dry desert climate where I ride, I may just use a light spray oil now.

Teledraulic fork rebuild



Nobody else here is missing the small rebound spring on their forks????
 
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elefantrider said:
Interesting, that is why my new G80CS forks had a ton of black grease in the spring covers! Coming from chrome stanchions on the Commando, grease here on the stanchions is new to me.

Haven't decided yet which grease/oil to use. Probably whatever grease is light in color so as to see when it gets dirty.
In the dry desert climate where I ride, I may just use a light spray oil now.
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Grease at the stanchions serve 3 purposes:
* Reduce risk of corrosion at stanchions and exposed springs
* Reduce sliding friction and tear btw. spring and stanchion
* Reduce or eliminate friction noise between springs and covers (especially long covers).

Despite your dry climatem I suggest you use grease as prescribed by the factory. The forks pump a lot of air in and out, and condensation may occure. At some time, you will want to hose down your bike or travel a muddy road as well.

-Knut
 
Will do them up in grease.

On Jampot,this is written:

The scrambler type forks, deleted the buffer springs, and added the steel collers. The road springs, were a dual rate spring, while the scrambler, or sidecar spring had a single rate spring.The gauge for the later scrambler and road springs were the same, at 0.212.The scrambler forks were also fitted to the earlier models of the P11 series, from engine and frame numbers, 121007. The G80CS scrambler fork internals were also used in the earlier Norton Atlas Scramblers, or G15CS, and earlier N15CS.There was also another modification added to the scrambler internals, to stop the scramblers forks from bottoming out, as listed in the 1964 Berlier Service release. This was an adapter that was screwed to the top of the damper rod, and gave the damper rod and extra 2 to 3 iches of travel.

Also this:

Many of the early P11 high pipe scramblers, were exported with 'scrambler' fork internals, ie, no buffer springs and differences in the damper drilling arrangement. I have now built a few P11s and I build mine to the stock G80CS front fork diagrams/info which is good and safe. Do not attempt to use the earlier 'scrambler' style fork internals as they are totally unsuitable on the road and downright dangerous.

 
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Interesting snip, especially the last two sentences. Rather than providing an adapter, AMC could have provided a longer damper rod. I wonder if this mod affects the Atlas Scrambler only? Any idea which part number the damper rod extender was assigned to?
Anyone having a copy of the Berliner Service Note? Deliveries of the G15CS started in the spring of 1964, hence it is assumed the service note dates to spring/summer of 1964.

-Knut
 
Interesting. So the Atlas Scrambler/early G15 and N15 used Matchless Teledraulic dampers in Norton Roadholder forks?? I have a set of dampers from an N15 (year unknown) and they are identical to Commando except the damper tubes are 11" rather than 9 1/8".
 
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