TECALEM GREASE GUN Service Bulletin Req'd

splatt said:

Are you trying to lube the swing arm pivot :?: if so it uses gearoil, grease blocks all the lube holes up.I use a Techalmite hand pump filled with oil,messy to store,you have to full the whole pivot up, lots of pumps, then bang you blow the 2ba nut off the end of the silly little bolt :wink: so now it's only a couple of pumps :idea: and no the little hand pumps don't produce as much pressure as a good modern pump.

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My swing arm lube point was missing the zerk fitting so I put one on and pumped it full of grease.
Here's a photo of it prior to installing the zerk. I thought it was a bad thing to have an opening where dirt could enter.
Now it seems that the previous owner knew more than I and took the zerk off so he could get oil in thru the hole.
Did I screw up and how do I fix it?
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/ ... ton002.jpg

69750S said:

Now it seems that the previous owner knew more than I and took the zerk off so he could get oil in thru the hole.

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Or it fell out?

69750S said:

Did I screw up and how do I fix it?

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Unfortunaty this is example of not reading the workshop manual FIRST. As then you would have known that the pivot "must not be filled with grease" because the bushes are made of sintered bronze.
The Commando pivot lubrication arrangement relies on the porosity of the sintered bronze material to supply oil directly to the pivot bearing surfaces. Grease will not be absorbed into the bushes, so the bearings eventually dry out and begin wear prematurely.

L.A.B. said:

69750S said:

Now it seems that the previous owner knew more than I and took the zerk off so he could get oil in thru the hole.

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Or it fell out?

69750S said:

Did I screw up and how do I fix it?

Click to expand...

Unfortunaty this is example of not reading the workshop manual FIRST. As then you would have known that the pivot "must not be filled with grease" because the bushes are made of sintered bronze.
The Commando pivot lubrication arrangement relies on the porosity of the sintered bronze material to supply oil directly to the pivot bearing surfaces. Grease will not be absorbed into the bushes, so the bearings eventually dry out and begin wear prematurely.

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Well you are correct. If I had read my Haynes manual fully rather than just the portion pertaining to the front forks which was what I was working on I would have seen that they rec 140 EP oil. So my question is what do I need to do in order to correct my mistake? Do I take off the right side dust cover by removing the center bolt and clean it out or do I have to completely remove the swingarm?
THX
Bruce

69750S said:

So my question is what do I need to do in order to correct my mistake? Do I take off the right side dust cover by removing the center bolt and clean it out or do I have to completely remove the swingarm?

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As I see it, you have two main choices, either strip the complete assembly and remove all the grease? Or remove the cap and get out what grease you can, refill with EP140 and hope that it dilutes any residual grease? In any case, the pivot bearings don't last forever, so renewing them is a task that most Commando owners will have to do-eventually.

L.A.B. said:

69750S said:

So my question is what do I need to do in order to correct my mistake? Do I take off the right side dust cover by removing the center bolt and clean it out or do I have to completely remove the swingarm?

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As I see it, you have two main choices, either strip the complete assembly and remove all the grease? Or remove the cap and get out what grease you can, refill with EP140 and hope that it dilutes any residual grease? In any case, the pivot bearings don't last forever, so renewing them is a task that most Commando owners will have to do-eventually.

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I'll do the clean out method first. Thx for your help. What's a good indicator that the pivot bearings need to be replaced or is it only via visual inspection?
THX
BS

69750S said:

What's a good indicator that the pivot bearings need to be replaced or is it only via visual inspection?

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If you can feel any play at all in the swingarm when you push and pull the rear wheel sideways, then the pivot bearings probably need replacing, alternatively the spindle could be loose in the cradle which is a reasonably common problem but it can be rectified?

L.A.B. said:

69750S said:

What's a good indicator that the pivot bearings need to be replaced or is it only via visual inspection?

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If you can feel any play at all in the swingarm when you push and pull the rear wheel sideways, then the pivot bearings probably need replacing, alternatively the spindle could be loose in the cradle which is a reasonably common problem but it can be rectified?

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LAB
THX I'll ck that b4 I decide which route to take on cleanout, but let's assume it's still good. How long do I have before my numbskull attempt at lubricating with the grease gun has adverse affects on the bushings assuming I can get most of the grease out and relube with 140wt? 1000 miles, 5000 miles? or no way to foretell? And I presume I can check it at any point using the technique you outlined above?
I'm thinking to get it back together and ride it for awhile before I tear down the swingarm and seeing as I have put less than 500 miles on it in the last 10yrs, I don't think I'll be putting more than 1000 on it this year.
BS

OK LAB I cleaned it out. BTW if anyone else is as stupid as I am, the stirrer sticks from Starbucks make nice tools for cleaning out the cavity. They are wooden and about 10in long and 1/4 in wide so they fit in quite nicely and are flexible to allow rotating inside the cavity.
B4 I do something else stupid can I further clean this up by flushing it with diesel fuel from a spray can? Or will that compromise the integrity of the sintered bronze?
THX again
Bruce

69750S said:

How long do I have before my numbskull attempt at lubricating with the grease gun has adverse affects on the bushings assuming I can get most of the grease out and relube with 140wt? 1000 miles, 5000 miles? or no way to foretell?

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I think it would be difficult to give you any sort of accurate answer?

But as you don't expect to do a lot of mileage, then I wouldn't worry too much about it.

L.A.B. said:

69750S said:

How long do I have before my numbskull attempt at lubricating with the grease gun has adverse affects on the bushings assuming I can get most of the grease out and relube with 140wt? 1000 miles, 5000 miles? or no way to foretell?

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I think it would be difficult to give you any sort of accurate answer?

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I posted this above but I'll put it here also. And I have one more question. Would Quaker State green oil 140wt be appropriate to use in the swingarm?
OK LAB I cleaned it out. BTW if anyone else is as stupid as I am, the stirrer sticks from Starbucks make nice tools for cleaning out the cavity. They are wooden and about 10in long and 1/4 in wide so they fit in quite nicely and are flexible to allow rotating inside the cavity.
B4 I do something else stupid can I further clean this up by flushing it with diesel fuel from a spray can? Or will that compromise the integrity of the sintered bronze?
THX again
Bruce

69750S said:

Would Quaker State green oil 140wt be appropriate to use in the swingarm?

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Sorry, I don't know about Quaker State oil, as I don't think it is available here in the UK, but any good quality 140 oil should be fine?

69750S said:

B4 I do something else stupid can I further clean this up by flushing it with diesel fuel from a spray can?

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I think you are now entering 'uncharted Norton territory' as I've never heard of anyone doing that before, and I'm certainly not sure what the end result of flushing the pivot with diesel would be?

Bruce,
here's the short of it.
You already know how to get at the inners.
Pull the spindle clean everything out w/ brake clean.
Make sure spindle holes one at each end are clear.
Use compressed air if need be.
If spindle is pitted chances are bushes are shot.
That's how mine were w/ 8,000 orig mile on bike when I got it.
Same story previous wrench put grease into swingarm.
Shim the rear isos properly then if swing arm is sloppy as LAB said
Time to remove and have a shop press in new ones.
I used a frame straightening shop w/ a bearing press to replace mine for me.
It was about 50 bucks for labour, use genuine andover bushes to avoid issues.
Napa stores if you have any near you have 140wt, Lucas truck gear oil is 140 wt.
Castrol 140wt for rear gears can be had at Autozone and possiby Pep Boys.
Get it out before it clogs the spindle ports thats when the wear starts on the brass bushes.
Marshal

Marshall and LAB
Thanks for all your help. This forum really is amazing for the members willing to help each other out.
Muchas Garcias
Bruce

Bruce,
we all may end crossing paths on our Nortons at a rally or a ride someday.
Then we will have something to reflect on.
Remembering how we helped each other goes a long way.
Everyone here did it for me a year ago.
Riding a Norton puts you in a special fraternity of riders.
But you already figured that out
Marshal

Man I am so glad you posted this - I was so close to packing the swing arm bushings with the old blue waterproof grease. I would have never even thought to read the manual until it was too late.

Secondly I would have figured a way to hook my pneumatic grease gun up to the Zerk and blown the other side of my brand new assembly completely off. Tools and profanity would have been flying that day!

I was wondering how the original owner managed to snap the thin bolt at the thread. Now I have a pretty good idea...

THANKS GUYS YOU SAVED ME!!!!!