1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

T160 electrics , indicators

Discussion in 'Triumph (Classic)' started by auldblue, Mar 23, 2017.

  1. auldblue

    auldblue VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2012
    Hi, getting the T160 ready for MOT but the left side indicators are not flashing but the box is clicking and the left side is flashing but quite slow. It's. Has been like this for a while had a mechanic test the electrics and he said he thought it had to be the switch. I bought a new sparx switch but would prefer to have the Lucas switch even if I replace its guts.
    Any tests I can do mean time as this is the only thing no working and if the box is clicking the switch must be giving it power , I have not rechecked the bulbs or holders.


    Cheers. Jg
     
  2. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Firstly, you need to check the LH bulbs are the correct type (12V 21W). Check the 'AMP' mini-plug handlebar wire connectors as they are barely adequate electrical conductors when in perfect condition (replace with bullet connectors).

    Then, I suggest you check the earths/returns of both LH indicators as the Lucas indicators rely on the metallic coating of the plastic bulb housings for their 'earth' between the bulb holder and stem.
    Also, the stems may have poor earth connections, the front indicators rely on the red wire connection inside the shell for their return (the headlamp shell connection is not a headlamp bulb earth/ground as often thought).

    The rear indicators rely on continuity through the T160 grab rail and bolted connection to the frame for their earth/return, unlike most other electrical components which have a return wire.

    As a check, remove the indicator lenses and run jumper wires from the bulb holders to a known good 'earth' (red wire or battery positive terminal, etc.) and see if that improves/cures the problem? If it does, an 'earth' wire can be added to each indicator by feeding it through the stem and connecting between the bulb holder and a good earth point. As it's an earth, a single strand of bare (copper) wire will do (photo);

    [​IMG]


    If that doesn't do the trick or it does not completely cure the problem then the indicator part of the handlebar switch cluster can be dismantled and cleaned easily enough just make sure the brass contact and spring in the nylon slider don't make a bid for freedom!
    (Actual switch cluster shown below is from a T140, your T160's cluster will probably have an additional blue/white wire going to the 'horn' button switch for headlamp flash)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. auldblue

    auldblue VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2012
    Hi,

    Cheers les, no joy. Tested bulbs both ok.

    Cleaned and tested switch , power leaving green red wire.

    Checked earths front and back seems good, ran earth wire to rear , no difference.

    Took green red wire out of connector and fitted bullets(h/l shell)

    Ran G/R switch wire direct to front indicator.

    [​IMG]

    Ran test light from live battery to G/R bullet at rear of bike and got a flashing light on the tester but no light at bulb.

    [​IMG]

    The G/R wire on the main loom taking the power to the indicators will not take a feed when I connect the switch wire . Any other tests I can do to narrow this down or is there something obvious that I am missing or no doing,? Thanks Les.

    Jg
     
  4. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    If you run power to only one bulb at a time it will light but it may need both front and rear connected in order for them to flash (depending on the type of flasher relay).

    Something wrong there by the sound of it.


    A partially fractured G/R wire then, possibly? Check the rear indicator G/R wire for damage where it runs through/under the rear mudguard (assuming it does but from your photo it may not?).




    You could try swapping the G/R and G/W outputs from the handlebar switch (so switch 'left' flashes the right) and see if the fault remains the same?
     
  5. auldblue

    auldblue VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2012
    Hi Les,

    I'm sure your right about thr G/R wire fractured and shorting out.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I ran a wire from the switch feed to front and rear indicators and everything is working as it should, that would get it through the MOT but I want to find out where the problem lies ,but I'm pretty useless with a multimeter . Do you know of any obvious places to look, the wires in the harness seems black don't know if that's with heat or just discoloured with the tape. Cheers Les.
    Jg
     
  6. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Not necessarily a short, but the copper wire may have fractured inside the insulation resulting in a high resistance.

    Difficult to say about the blackened wires. If the wire has fractured then the most likely place would be in the area around the steering head where the harness flexes.
     
  7. doug

    doug

    Joined:
    May 11, 2009
    I had similar problems with my T140 indicators flashing slowly/not at all depending on revs/phase of the moon.I eventually gave up and fitted LED indicators.
     
  8. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    I can honestly say that I have never had a single problem with indicators fitted to a British bike of mine.

    Ditto electric starters.
     
  9. auldblue

    auldblue VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2012
    Good one Nigel , we all know why ............that may all change in the next few months !!!!

    Cheers for the "positive" outlook Doug ,LED 's are great. I've got an LED headlight on the T160 couldn't do without it now .

    But not working as they should , I can't get the flasher warning light to work and without striping the consul I am not sure which wire goes to the orange bulb there are two short G/R and one long ,I have tried all three with no success . Don't really fancy getting down and dirty with it at the moment I feel if it is ok I will leave it till after the summer just in case I make things worse, as often happens in theses situations.
    The front brake and brake switch are now also working fine let's hope they hold out for the MOT. thanks again Les.

    Jg
     
  10. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Edit: All three G/R wires (one being the feed from the handlebar switch) should connect to a (common) 4-way double bullet connector, also a fourth, the (green?) LH front indicator wire.

    The amber warning light for the standard 'two-pin' flasher relay has a connection to each indicator circuit (GW & GR, see diagram, below) it does not have an 'earth' wire as such, because the warning light's earth is whichever side isn't flashing, the resistance of the low wattage bulb being sufficient to prevent the bulbs on the non-flashing side from also working so the warning light should have one bulb connection going to G/R and the other to G/W.

    [​IMG]

    If the standard warning bulb is replaced with an LED then it may only work for one set of indicators.
     
  11. auldblue

    auldblue VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2012
    What I can't get my head round is the light won't flash, I don't know exactly which wire it is but I am presuming it is the longer G/R of the three ,I can't be sure thought without further investigation. I am giving it another go this morning.

    [​IMG]

    I think the light wire is the G/R going into the connector pointing to the back? Cheers , jg
     
  12. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Won't flash, or doesn't light up (bulb blown)?

    It should be one of the 'short' G/Rs into the harness.
    The other short G/R goes to the LH rear indicator.
    The long G/R is probably from the handlebar switch.
    The LH front (green) is missing from the connector (as I presume you know?).
     
  13. auldblue

    auldblue VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2012
    Took the ign/warning light binnacle off and checked continuity it was one of the short G/R wires it was attached to the normal earth side of the buib holder. Must have been a loose connection of something? It just started to work as is ,with no additional wires. It only has a new feed wire running from the switch feed to the rear indicator and all indicators are working fine.

    So basically as long as there are no further mishaps putting the headlight back in and fitting the OPG light wires and brackets I think that could be job done, and I can get the yellow roadster tank and panels on. Bob's your uncle as they says.

    Thanks again Les, it definatly gives you confidence to tackle jobs your unsure of when you have help from somebody who knows what their doing.

    Jg
     
  14. auldblue

    auldblue VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2012
    The big day arrived , twenty mile or so drive for the MOT and while stopping for a drink blew the fuse , then promptly blew the new fuse . So it was a two fifty yard push to the bike shop took the fight bar switch of fuse in and ok . Stuck it back on everything working ok. Passed the MOT rode home no further issues, bit weird but that's it for another twelve months . Three bikes all with some form of electrical issues , I'm beginning to think the ghost of old Joe Lucas is haunting me!! But all three are on historic tax so good to go, happy days.

    Jg
     
  15. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    We've discussed this already Jimmy...

    What's not there can't fail...!
     
  16. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    If what you meant is "...took the right (handle)bar switch off, fuse in and ok." then it may not be all that weird (if the original front brake switch is still fitted and connected) as the switch can move enough for the soldered joint to short against the housing.

    I suggest that you insert a piece of insulation (plastic harness sleeve, etc. is ideal) between the switch and the housing as shown in the photo below otherwise there's a good chance it will happen again.

    Even if it turns out not to have been the cause of the fuse blowing I'd still advise you (or anyone else with a T140V/T150V/T160) to fit the insulation if it still has the original front brake light switch.

    (The grey/white wire would usually be white)
    [​IMG]
     
  17. auldblue

    auldblue VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2012
    Cheers Les, unfortunately after the last fix I broke the small plastic pin, tried to glue it as it was not 100 % snapped and in the process bent the copper strip and broke the wire from the solder. It was not the tidiest repair was going to flatten the solder a bit and put a bit if insulating tape in, but the repair you have suggested is a far better job and easy to do. However the copper strip repair is just a .3 mm copper strip popped in the back of the original strip and the glue job was a failure. I made a new pin from a golf tee and it is working well, but do you think a small dab of epoxy to join the two copper strips together( as I am concerned that it may fall out of place) is a plan or not ? Do you have a better method that you can pass on?

    Cheers Jg
     
  18. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Is it possible to solder the two copper strips together? If not, then epoxy glue might work but not having seen exactly what you've done then it's difficult to say.

    Another option would be to fit a (3/8" UNF) hydraulic 'banjo' switch.

    G-BL773-3: https://www.triumph-spares.co.uk/cat_de ... 20switches
     
  19. auldblue

    auldblue VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2012
    I have a banjo fitting and it's not an expensive fix and by far a more reliable system. But I have wasted so much time and effort on this that I would like to get it to work just out of pure pig headedness.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Pretty Heath Robinson job but it got through the test all be it by the skin of the teeth. I did consider soldering it but with my skill level it would be a disaster waiting to happen, so epoxy it must be.
    When I look at that photo , it's rough all right.

    Jg
     

Share This Page