T140 pushrods. New ones longer?

I bought new Norman Hyde pushrods for a '73 T140 engine. New Hyde pushrods are about 1mm longer than the stock ones. Is this going to mess with me? Is it normal for this and just adjust rockers accordingly? Sorry, never replaced pushrods before.

I would assume that coming from Norman Hyde that the pushrods should be OK. If you are only measuring end to end it could be only the shoulder is slightly higher, the dimension that matters is measured from the bottoms of the cups.

All the best

Webby

Webby03 said:

I would assume that coming from Norman Hyde that the pushrods should be OK. If you are only measuring end to end it could be only the shoulder is slightly higher, the dimension that matters is measured from the bottoms of the cups.

All the best

Webby

Click to expand...

Thanks Webby. I just did a quick length comparasin. I'll measure from cup to cup as soon as I can find some calipers that fit in there.

Something like a nail held in a vise and a dial gauge mounted at a set height should do the job. I wouldn't bother buying specialist measuring kit just for that.

Webby

The important thing is that the adjusters wipe the top of the valves evenly.
Should start say 1/4 in , go through to same opposite @ 1/2 lift , then back to starting posn.
or EQUAL about the valve centre.

just pushing one way tends to wear guides. the idea is its pretty much straight down , as an average.

W&S (Not S&W) used to do springs for XS 750 & 500 Yams (Lable) two sets . as their four valve)
under yamaha fit , lable states " also suit Triumph & Norton Twin " Yahoo, comes with collets ,
caps , seats , and SHIMS.To set @ .040 of coilbound at full lift. Progressive rate centreless ground.

Aircraft Quality as they used to say . . . and were only $ 10 in N.Z. in 81 , from ' blue wing honda ' !

Aluminum Bronze valve guides were the go too . . . .and 1 3/4 pipes , and . . .

73 , Right foot shift ?? . Much prefered to workers co-op ones. personally.

Matt Spencer said:

The important thing is that the adjusters wipe the top of the valves evenly.
Should start say 1/4 in , go through to same opposite @ 1/2 lift , then back to starting posn.
or EQUAL about the valve centre.

just pushing one way tends to wear guides. the idea is its pretty much straight down , as an average.

Click to expand...

I just noticed this,while searching other things on the internet.I know it's old,but it's incorrect.The desription given would be fine for a roller rocker,or even a swivel-foot adjuster.
It won't work with a solid rocker,or solid (non-swivel) adjuster.The radius on the rocker or adjuster must roll across the valve-tip,all the way from zero lift to full lift.The point of contact on the valve-tip gets further from the rocker spindle as lift increases.The rocker will then be pushing the valve away from the spindle at the start of lift,and pushing the valve toward the spindle between 1/2-lift and full-lift.

Somewhere between 1/4 lift and 1/2 lift,a line taken square off the valve-tip will pass through the centre of the rocker spindle.At the point where that line passes through the spindle centre,the side-thrust on the valve is zero.